Show all posts by user
Try and play here.
I see no reason why the stepper motors and ends tops shouldn't work, I know that some maker bots use a 24v power line though and ramps only uses 12v and 5v. I almost fried some 12 v fans when I was repairing a maker once
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DaGameFace
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General
I have the same issue, or I did haven't checked in a while, tried brand new firmware as well, just for clarity this is marlin firmware right?
Luckily you can mess with most things that are in the tune menu by going to the "control" menu
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DaGameFace
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General
just a cheap insignia 400W that i got at best buy because my cheap china one died
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DaGameFace
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General
am using two 50v22uF capacitors that I had laying around with a 5v line from my PC ATX power supply going to one of the unused end stop positive leads. Everything working perfectly
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DaGameFace
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General
If you look in a command interface with the printer, when you send a raise z axis or lower z axis command it will be responding with z axis ends top active and do a whole lot of nothing
Or you may have a different problem
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Just happened to me last night, looked more closely and somehow one of the wires from my end stop came off, the printer thought it was being activated and tried to back off the end stop, when there was no change, it stopped the axis
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DaGameFace
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Printing
with no load my 5v rail is 5.10
under full printer load, (heated bed, nozzle and fans) the voltage drops to 5.03
I think this sounds promising enough to go ahead and try, plus i can add the capacitors to hopefully clean up the current. Unless someone thinks there could be a major problem here i am going to proceed.
Thank for all the responses
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DaGameFace
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General
Can't I just put a 5v capacitor in line to stablize the current?
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DaGameFace
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General
Can't I just put a 5v capacitor in line to stablize the current?
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DaGameFace
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General
horrible how?
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DaGameFace
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Thought my screwdriver was safe, its a rubber covered plastic handle. If i had known it was even a risk i would have turned it off, but i had no clue there was actually voltage going through the potentiometer.
Is D1 a specific pin? on the mega or ramps?
about to tear the printer apart, haven't yet
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DaGameFace
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General
So, I killed another 5v regulator on my new mega2560 board, only thing i did was adjust a potentiometer on a stepper motor while the power supply was turned on (not during a print or while preheating though).
Is this not something that's okay to do?
Regardless, I now have an atx power supply that is powering my printer and has unused 5V rails. Is it possible to bypass the mega's 5v regulator a
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DaGameFace
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General
Oooooohhh I see the jumpers you are talking about, THANK YOU
No where in the build guide did it mention these...
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DaGameFace
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Yeah it's a ramps board, not sure what stepper drivers though, don't think they are labled
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DaGameFace
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Do, I have a pretty cheap prima i3 kit, works well enough when it is printing but when I was calibrating it I realized that the 1.8 degree stepper motors had no micro stepping, this doesn't really both me too much at first but now that I'm getting every thing else tuned in the biggest set back in printing quality now seems to be the wavyness of the edges of my prints caused by the steps on my ext
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DaGameFace
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General
Looked into it more, it is definitely a broken 5v regulator
Thank you for helping with the diagnosis
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DaGameFace
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Quotethe_digital_dentist
It sounds like something was damaged when you shorted the endstops. Feel around for parts that are running hot. The low power supply voltage indicates that something is taking a lot of current.
The power supply has always run low on voltage, even brand new not connected to anything
QuoteVDX
... the shorting most likely wrecked the 5V-regulator on the Arduino Mega - re
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DaGameFace
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Going to keep this is as short as possible.
Printer did work,
accidentally grounded the 2 pins between z and y axis end stop pins right after enabling pid instead of bang bang on my extruder (don't know how bang bang ever got turned on in the first place)
Now:
the screen contrast gets thrown off a lot, like when the heaters turn on/ off and when it is plugged into a computer or unplugged. In
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DaGameFace
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General
I would go with an E3D, I'm not 100% sure but looks like that Active X attaches to the printer with threaded rod on the top (by far the most standard way). If so the E3D v6 would be a drop in replacement and nothing would need to be rearranged except for the z end stop which should already be adjustable. This would be done in the calibration process the same as with the Active x.
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DaGameFace
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General
I know people have done this but cant seem to find any files for this exact combo.
I'm looking for a carriage, wade extruder (direct drive, 1.75) and a mount for my E3D hotend that uses as few non printed parts as possible.
My Prusa i3 has 8mm smooth rod. Worst case scenario i will design my own but seeing as many people have this setup I'd rather not reinvent the wheel.
On a related note, is
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DaGameFace
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Make sure your hot end is not too close to the cold end, I did this my first time, if you aren't sure how close is too close, upload a pic of your extruder
(depending on your extruder this may or may not be in your control)
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DaGameFace
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General
What panel is this exactly? Also the second connector is for a SD card slot on the screen (on the ramps board anyway)
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Add a -e distance in the end gcode to retract filament
Maybe a +z as well?
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DaGameFace
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Printing
i am fairly new as well, but adjusting the voltage is actually very easy, all you need to do is turn the potentiometer on each stepper driver.
I am fuzzy myself on micro stepping, for some reason my printer has none.
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DaGameFace
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What I have:
Can mount this J Head hot end to it?
Currently my hot end attaches to the cold end with threaded rod by that j head doesn't seem to have thread at the top.
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DaGameFace
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try adjusting the voltage on the stepper drivers?
Also are you SURE you have the proper firmware settings? is it possible for you to have lost microstepping?
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DaGameFace
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According to the diagram at the bottom of the website, looks like if you detach two wires, then it can be driven as bipolar
As for the extruder, I'm not sure what you are trying to mount it to, from the looks I guess your x axis must have two smooth rods side by side instead of stacked vertically, if that's the case then your bowden would have to go 90 degrees might cause kinks in the fillament
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DaGameFace
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May need to increase xy jerk to fix the non circular holes, though I could be wrong
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DaGameFace
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Printing
I have printed key caps before, it requires some fine tuning of both the model itself as well as the printer
Also it helps significantly if you have active cooling for the top of the print (I print key face down)
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DaGameFace
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Quotedtwrv6
setting zero too close (below) the bed surface?
also, if anything i think he may not have the nozzle close enough to the print surface the circle doesn't look like a circle nor the rectangle a rectangle, don't think the filament is sticking properly when it does come out
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DaGameFace
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General