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Try and play here.
havent used PVDF but have used PETG quite a bit.
Can confirm that infill peeling issues can be solved by making the extrusions wider and shorter (ie honeycomb instead of rectilinear) both help in addition to inceasing the infill overlap in your slicer (maybe as high as 40%?)
What would someone use a teflon like printed plastic for? Do its printed properties make a good choice for plastic on pla
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Sorry a couple of them are blurry but I kept the camera in the same orientation for all of them.
Ive been having trouble tracking down what is causing these issues. At this point I think its caused by the lackluster frame and kinematics of the rostock max v1.
Anyone seen this kind of inconsistent movement? The outer perimeters are always in the right location but the bottom middle and top inf
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DaGameFace
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Printing
just stumbled by this thread
Thought you may be interested in the MIT robot that prints houses with spray foam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rgp4ncc1wOQ
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DaGameFace
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General
QuoteHugoG
I have checked the filament size if I push it out of the nozzle, and that is 0.42 mm, so not a problem. Right now I don't have another nozzle to put on so I will have to deal with it. My filament is exactly 1.75 mm so that isn't the problem either. I'm kinda running out of options here, so I'm just going to try to change some settings or something.
That looks like you may be having so
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DaGameFace
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Printing
hadnt tried a print and by crashing later I meant that the g33 would crash during its probing routine.
It is working now luckily, turns out a combination of corrected delta mechanics values and steps/mm seems to have resolved the issue. This printer was supposed to come with 16 tooth idlers but apparently it actually has 15 tooth idlers giving it the strange s/mm of 106.66667.
still dont unders
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DaGameFace
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General
Quoteo_lampe
Maybe the filament gets stiffer from aging
PLA gets significantly more brittle after absorbing water from the air.
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Yes they do respond correctly, A g28 was working just fine.
Turns out I had made an error when transcribing the delta radius that was causing the G29 issues as well as xy movement issues. All Z movements work just fine.
Now that I have corrected the radius, g28 and g29 are both working and I could probably print, however G33 will measure the first couple points correctly only to crash the nozzl
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DaGameFace
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General
The plot thickens, an x movement of 40mm results in 60mm of movement despite taking my values from the old Repetier firmware..
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DaGameFace
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General
what happens if the printer is only a few mm from the endstops? You may have the wrong z height (but that may be fixed with the proper steps/mm) The printer wont want to move further than the length of the Z while homing
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DaGameFace
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Printing
it is VERY important to make sure PETG is dry, It soaks up water from the air and becomes nearly unusable when it does
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DaGameFace
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Printing
It looks like the Z has to be causing this to me, not necessarily the screw itself, If i had to guess it looks like its missing micro steps, try increasing the amps to the Z steppers and/or decreasing Z micro steps for more torque and therefore more reliable accuracy
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Assuming your thermistor is configured correctly it is most likely due to a heating timeout failure due to stock PID settings. Luckily your firmware can find the correct settings all by itself!
M303 is the command for PID Autotuining EX:
M303 E0 S200 C8
Would make Extruder0 heat to 200 C and cycle above and below that temp 8 times, getting better values with each cycle. When completed the prin
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Quotekapperi
Those are good points all, but mine first layer is perfect (I think), maybe too good what comes to getting the parts out of the bed...
My problem is that in next layers when the speed should rise, I can´t get it to stick to previous layers and its sticking on nozzle. I´m doing first layer at 20mm/s and next layers absolutly maximum is 27mm/s...
There´s no problem with stringing and
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Pic 3&4 are both the addittions tab, what are your infill settings like? With PETG I turn up my "outline overlap" to 35%. Unfortunately, from the pic its pretty hard to tell exactly what the issue is with your top layer. The issue may actually lie in your printers jerk/acceleration settings but I cant make that call from the info provided
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DaGameFace
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Printing
funny thing about petg, the crystaline structure (and therefore appearance) is heavily dependent on how fast it was cooled, if you want less glossy you can try any combo of the following, print higher temp, slower, taller layers, wide extrusions, no cooling fan.
Its when you cool it quickly that it gets a nice smooth shiny finish
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DaGameFace
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General
Nope, they have a bunch of stuff, think you want this:
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DaGameFace
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General
High quality American stuff, price tags arent insane but it is more than china
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DaGameFace
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General
So I'm trying to set up a bl touch on a Rostock max V 1 that had a bad rambo (now has a ramps). So now I have the firmware mostly done I have run into some rather confusing issues. G28, homes fine, G29 homes then gets stuck at the top (at least one of the axis tries to move past home). In this video I show how it behaves with the G33 command right untill I kill the power because the carriage cras
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DaGameFace
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General
Oil the new rods?
If that doesnt help the new ones may become smoother after breaking them in, OR the surface finish/diameter could be slightly out of spec
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DaGameFace
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General
couple things to check would be can you push filament through the hotend yourself? and does the extruder stepper turn properly with no filament?
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DaGameFace
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General
did you put the jumper on the board that allows for flashing the firmware? (it is the two pins just to the left of the USB type B port)
while the documentation is poor, I really quite like my sainsmart 2 in 1
THIS is the best documentation i came across when setting mine up
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DaGameFace
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General
Any reason you seem to be set on a cartesian printer? A delta could be a whole lot of fun, and in my experience more impressive to the lamen which is always a plus.
On the whole both of your designs look pretty good, while I personally think that core xy's are a bit weird and use longer belt runs than necessary, that is the trade off of removing a dedicated x axis stepper motor from the moving m
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DaGameFace
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General
Quotefg dude
QuoteDaGameFace
Anyone try to remove the X axis yet? Ideally I would like to remove a ton of weight from it but not sure that I can take the smooth rods of the X axis out of the blocks that are the Y axis without tearing down the whole printer.
I think you have no other choice than to remove one side of the printer completely.
Yeah, I thought so, was hoping I overlooked something.
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DaGameFace
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General
Anyone try to remove the X axis yet? Ideally I would like to remove a ton of weight from it but not sure that I can take the smooth rods of the X axis out of the blocks that are the Y axis without tearing down the whole printer.
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DaGameFace
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General
QuoteDaGameFace
I think I need to mess with Jerk and acceleration settings. What do you guys use?
Yes its a cubeX and it isn't overextruding, Ive played with that a lot, solid infills are perfect, next I had tried messing with retractions, and decreased stringing that way. The ugly parts of the print are during abrupt changes, therefore jerk and or acceleration, I had turned both down to m
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DaGameFace
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General
I think I need to mess with Jerk and acceleration settings. What do you guys use?
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DaGameFace
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General
I had started a CAD design poll a while back that had a lot of really great feedback, if you aren't dead set on autodesk (I personally using their inventor professional and prefer it to solidworks) you may want to see what other people are using and why.
EDIT: Forgot the link
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DaGameFace
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General
Quotedc42
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I noticed that the heatsink in the hot-end because quite warm while it was printing. I think that mounting the cooling fans directly on the hot-end like the E3D approach would keep them a lot cooler and maybe prevent some jams with PLA.
Where did they put the hot end cooling fan then, if it wasn't either on the hot end, or on the print head and ducted to the h
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DaGameFace
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General
So, here is how I solved the problem of V6's not being tall enough to use the scraper, and gave the clones a considerable upgrade too.
I started with two V6 clones I had laying around and machined their ends to match the cubex original and attached them to the volcano style heater block. Upon realizing that to reach the scraper, the aluminum bar that crushes the extruder would only be half on t
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DaGameFace
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General
QuoteDancook
My set up probably isn't the best practice, but since it's been working perfectly, I haven't touched it.
IMHO, that is actually best practice, that way any slicer can easily use your printer, rather than correcting for poorly configured firmware in the slicer (I actually use my slicer to set the offesets of my extruders, which isn't best practice, but convenient instead of reflashin
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DaGameFace
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General