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Try and play here.
First of all, the damage:
Front left corner
Cracked LCD
Further damage found underneath
What are these for? LEDs?
My nozzles dont look too nice either
Think I am going to make my own adapter for the E3D v6, I have access to a metal shop now and looks pretty easy. I am just going to put up with having to take the hotend out from the bottom. Judging by how damaged my acrylic is, I am f
by
DaGameFace
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General
Looks like you have a couple problems. Belts could be one of them but what sticks out more to me is the inconsistent extrusion. This is most likely your extruder skipping steps, this would be easy to hear as it makes a click when it happens.
Solution:
1. Increase torque by adjusting the voltage to your stepper motor
2. Calibrate your extruders step/mm
3. Print slower
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DaGameFace
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Prusa i3 and variants
MINE ARRIVED!
First impressions: ITS HUGE, Don't think I like the plexiglass shell, mine was received with a broken LCD as well as damage in several places on the plexiglass. I am also very impressed by the machining done on this printer.
In regards to the damage, the eBay reseller only offered a refund which was no good so I'm keeping the damaged one. I haven't had time to tear down the printe
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DaGameFace
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General
QuoteLaton
actually trying to print something from different materials... Rubber, Plastic, Metal, etc...
Any one of those materials can be printed individually with ease. The problem being if you want two materials in the same print.
Metal? not a chance SLS is how almost all metal printing is done and by definition can only be done in one metal at a time (suppose if someone needed a really f
by
DaGameFace
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General
In case you don't know about it I suggest you take a look at the website pcpartpicker.com. It is a website that, you guessed it, lets you pick out computer parts. It does a number of cool things such as finding the same parts listed on multiple websites and showing you the cheapest price, as well as optional compatibility mode, which will make sure you pick a motherboard, ram, cpu, cpu cooler etc
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DaGameFace
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Though I am concerned about the PTFE tubes crushing with load or over time. and not sure I could trust it printed in PLA as I have noticed any PLA under any amount of pressure seems to slowly warp and bend over time, ABS should be fine though as long as the PTFE can handle it I may have to try this in the future.
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DaGameFace
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Mechanics
YES! thats right! SLM, NOT SLS or SLA; SLM
Selective
Laser
Melting
it would be exactly like SLS, but instead of metal powders being sintered together, it would be chocolate powder melting and sticking together. SLS quality printed Chocolates, you know that if you print the right thing and sell it at the right place people would pay an arm and a leg for it.
needless to say, i am about 95% kiddi
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DaGameFace
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Lol found this in an amazon comment about the printer:
By all means contact your cr3dit card company and demand a chargeback..give their fraud department a link to these reviews and get your money back...even if you mange to do your own costly and time consuming upgrades to get it to function it still will not function as well as a machine thats 25 percent the price
I say, challenge accepted
by
DaGameFace
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General
I bought a duo for $280
Can't wait to begin the tear down! Should we start a new thread at some point as the upgrade process begins?
Anyway, Looks pretty cool and can't argue with the price!
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DaGameFace
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General
Looks pretty cool. Can tell you have a CNC from all that aluminum. Only thing that comes to mind is that getting that bed level might be a hassle. Oh and if you haven't ordered electronics get the DRV8825 stepper drivers, they can do 1/32 microstepping. You could use it on you Z and E motors.
Oh, I should have mentioned this before, but Z axis belts are definitely a thing. Almost all delta print
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DaGameFace
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Mechanics
From these new photos, seeing random under extruded spot looks like it has to be from the extruder.
Try replacing your extruder stepper driver?? I've had some that would act weird. One would be able to move steppers but wouldn't hold them in place.
You said your drive gear is clean, but did you look close enough to notice any missing teeth or other weirdness? If you could try a direct drive t
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Slic3r has a different interface material setting separate from support pillar material and also does branching pillar supports to save material.
I use PVA with S3D and just dissolve all the support material in water. Works really well
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DaGameFace
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General
Wow, looks like a solid machine especially considering the price. I wonder if they are selling at a loss with hopes of filament cartridges will pay off.
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DaGameFace
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General
Test:
Yeah, you need to right click it, hit view image, then use that url.
That board is clearly labled MXP Pro V 1.5 right next to the Mega 2560 (I think) processor. It is an all in one board, and doesn't look too bad, I've definitely seen worse silk screens. At the left side of the picture you see your stepper motors plugged in. Next to each one there is a stepper driver integrated into th
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DaGameFace
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Prusa i3 and variants
If you really wanted to still do your original idea, its a simple matter of splicing the two sets of stepper wires together. People do it all the time to synchronize their two Z axis motors
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DaGameFace
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Mechanics
you can remove one transistor on the ramps board to bypass the regulator, but then you need to provide a new source of 5v power. In my case it was a simple matter of using a 5v rail from my ATX psu. Before I go and do anthing like that, I would do some poking around on your ramps with a multimeter to check your 12v rail and 5v rail, with no usb plugged in.
So, measure
PSU 12v rail no load:
PSU 1
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DaGameFace
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General
QuoteHey DD, is it true that you have to buy their filament cartridges?
Yes, but not after removing their controller board and replacing it with a ramps/ Smoothie like he mentioned in the first post
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DaGameFace
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General
hmm, thats unusual for a prusa to not use an arduino/ramps combo.. probably a 2 in one, in which case microstepping is either on by default or not at all.
by
DaGameFace
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Prusa i3 and variants
My bet is you fried your 5v regulator on your new board. This would explain the lcd, which runs on 5v power not working as the arduino needs to make its own 5v power from the 12v power provided to it. But it does work when the USB provides 5v power. Probably plugged in your endstops incorrectly, grounding a 5v rail. I did the same thing.
If you fried the insulation, this is most likely the cause
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DaGameFace
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General
So, I thought you meant it gradually got closer to the X+ side, which would mean skipping steps/skipping of the belt. I have no idea why cura would suddenly go to X max most of the way through a print. But would definitely try a different slicer
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DaGameFace
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General
Well, you have a Prusa I3 for starters. But that isnt saying much as there is so many variants of the pusa that that doesnt tell the slicer much of anything. X skipped steps could be caused and therefore solved many different ways.
1. Too high jerk/acceleration (probably not the cause, but easiest to test, just run it slower and if needed reflash the firmware)
2. Belt too loose. (self explanato
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DaGameFace
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General
the printer reads 0C? cause i guarantee thats not correct. Sounds like the thermistor is coming disconnected. Could be a worn out wire?
by
DaGameFace
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Prusa i3 and variants
Step 1. Remove stepper drivers (WITH POWER OFF)
Step 2. jumper all pins as such in picture
Step 3. add a *16 after all your steps per mm settings in firmware and increase acceleration
Step 5. Profit! from the now musical sound of your smooth stepper motors
This is assuming your stepper drivers are fairly standard ones that are 1/16 max. A pretty safe assumption seeing you got it from a kit. The
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DaGameFace
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Prusa i3 and variants
would recommend using 1/16 microstepping max. for kicks, try that and see how it works for x and y
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DaGameFace
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Prusa i3 and variants
I forget if slic3r has a layer change code section, but you can tell the extruder to go to 0,0 and do a wait command for a few seconds to give the print time to cool inbetween layers
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DaGameFace
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Printing
Asg, thought i hit post but aparently forgot. Think I know what you problem is, make sure you have your z steps per mm set correctly. so that when you tell it to move 1cm it goes 1cm. I bet your firmware is configured for threaded rod while you have lead screws, or expects to see more microsteping than you have
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DaGameFace
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General
Did you get microstepping set up? Some build guides don't show how to jumper the pins under the stepper drivers, I ask because no microstepping would make a printer really loud and jerky. Two things you solved by turning down acceleration.
Also, unless I'm printing something that needs to look really good like a scale model, or herringbone gears, I almost always print at .2 it is close to twice
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DaGameFace
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Prusa i3 and variants
ABS may be too hot for PVA, it is almost literally elmers white glue. Works PERFECT for PLA though. An alternative oculd be buyng pla from certain brands which can be smoothed with acetone. (technically any pla is affected by acetone to some degree, though most are very resistant. Some brands sell pla that acts like abs when exposed to acetone)
D-Limonen is fairly expensive, and flammable, but
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DaGameFace
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Printing
7 Hours? your printer must be set slow.. though I guess the .1 and 50% wouldn't help much either
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DaGameFace
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Prusa i3 and variants