Show all posts by user
Try and play here.
Uh, in this picture, arent two of those heat sinks cooling what should be the hot end instead of cooling the cold end? Tried to demonstrate what I mean, and how I think it should be with the picture
keep the hot side hot and the cold side cold
by
DaGameFace
-
General
damn mechabits, that is some sexy looking metal. How did you generate those renders?
by
DaGameFace
-
General
I think i understand what you mean about separating them, will play around in Autodesk Inventor and see if i can get it working
by
DaGameFace
-
General
wow, was looking at getting some of these for the printer lab I run at my college. Literally had them on a list of supplies that are being purchased monday...
thanks man, though i hope someone can make this work but i bet it needs special drivers that the arduino cant handle
by
DaGameFace
-
General
QuoteGovahnator
The filament does not strip because of high speed or to much stepper current like said above..
Yes, it does. Well, not the filament itself but that's not what he meant. Stepper motors can only move so fast, too fast and it will loose a lot of torque, faster and it will flat out skip steps. I have a 80:16 (5:1) geared stepper bowden setup and this was an actual problem
by
DaGameFace
-
Reprappers
5 or 6 screw extruders with pellet bins stationary and the bed move on x,y and z would probably be the most elegant if you want true full color prints
by
DaGameFace
-
Mechanics
Quotejosmaukcc
Nice one. Just remember that FDM is a proprietary name only to be used by Stratasys. (oops I wrote it myself now, hope I don’t get sued)
yeah, its FFF for everyone else, I said FFF in knowledgeable company and immediately they tried to correct me : /
But anyway, this looks awesome, hope one can make it to production. Im currently designing my own printer, and am thinking about ha
by
DaGameFace
-
Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
you can either remove the line in the firmware that I had mentioned in the last post, or send M302 in gcode, this will disable cold extrusion protection. Then you can send something like G1 E-10 F300 (G1 is the move command, E-10 is the extruder and a retract of 10mm, and F300 is the speed)
by
DaGameFace
-
General
how do you make sure that they are aligned properly when using a single model cut into pieces?
by
DaGameFace
-
General
you can reduce strings by increasing travel speed, would try making the infill extrusions wider so it prints fewer of them and puts down more filament
by
DaGameFace
-
Printing
MICRO STEPPING, that would be my guess
by
DaGameFace
-
Printing
do you hear a hiss when extruding? if its humid where you are your abs could have absorbed water and it boiling out when in the hotend can wreak havoc on consistency of both temperature and the extrusion itself
by
DaGameFace
-
Printing
I had this issue twice, once the solution was moving my halogen light to another outlet, as turning it on caused the freeze the other was caused by my stepper drivers overheating. Some people build active cooling fan mounts for their arduinos board but i simply reduced the voltage they were supplying therefore making them run cooler.
would explain " My Y stepper was warm to the touch about a mi
by
DaGameFace
-
Printing
this is a duplicate post so heres the answer from the other post.
by
DaGameFace
-
General
Cool! Had wanted to do this in the past as well but didnt know how. Would love to know how to do this in Simplify3d as well..
by
DaGameFace
-
General
comment out this line if you want to test it without heating:
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
I would suggest switching the connectors of the two extruders to see if your secondary stepper driver even works, other than that I did not see anything wrong with your firmware
by
DaGameFace
-
General
If its a all metal hot end that jam could just be more resistance than your extruder can currently handle. PLA gets warm and sticky in the cold end but if you have a strong extruder and a tight tensioner you can power through this. Alternatively you can try to clean out your heatbreak/hotend and put a bit of olive oil in and bring it up to around 240 C for a few minutes, this should reduce the fr
by
DaGameFace
-
Printing
QuoteMechaBits
thought you might like this 3D printed Dieselpunk Russian Tank
Yeah, thats really cool! Not much of a fan of steampunk but hadnt heard of diesel punk before. Will need to look more into it.
I like this one:
by
DaGameFace
-
General
Not as good but very close, I can send a pick of the underside. But look at the bottom of the barrel, I didn't clean it up at all just a couple coats of paint. You have to be sure that you make the contact distance of the interface material and the PLA is set to 0.
PVA is a bit tricky, If it sits in the hot end for too long it will burn and plug it, and its much harder to clean than PLA. The oth
by
DaGameFace
-
General
Here is a JgPz IV it was the first thing I printed with PVA. As you can see it allowed me to print horizontally making the barrel and details on top and back all very nice. This is a 1:100 scale, making it just over an inch wide, so a pretty small print.
EDIT: wow, the paint and the model itself looks better in person, much harder to see the layers, imperfections and mistakes of the brush.
by
DaGameFace
-
General
i am using some sainsmart PVA, before you oreder any look into setting up a container that can keep it nice and dry, i am already having problems with humidity causing it to boil in the hot end, I will post a couple pics tomorrow, dont have a very good camera though
by
DaGameFace
-
General
X/Y: On a standard prusa the x axis is always the extruder, though as long as you do it correctly, I see no reason you couldn't leave them switched, the only thing that may happen is your prints getting mirrored on one of both axis.
Nozzle height: Look for a guide on leveling the bed, when finished the nozzle shouldnt touch the bed but at z of 0 it should be the thickness of one sheet of paper a
by
DaGameFace
-
General
QuoteMechaBits
but PVA is that similar to the glue...sounds expensive for something you throw away, or even worse dissolve, have you tried the excelevan at almost a quarter of the price
PVA is great for support material in places that you wouldn't otherwise be able to remove, the price is worth it imho because you use so little compared to the main material
by
DaGameFace
-
General
I have now done a few more prints and have concluded that the scrub with the toothbrush must have caused some amount of PVA to be ground into the PLA. the other prints that i have done have had the PVA dissolve completely leaving no white stain.
About my water causing it, I dont think this is the case as the majority of the print is the color it should be, the only place with a stain are the are
by
DaGameFace
-
General
1.if the steppers move the wrong direction, unplug their 4pin and flip it around then plug it back in, that will get a little closer.
2.as for the max temp error, This is most likely a thermistor wire ran too close to a power supply wire, this can cause random EM noise.
3. the lcd in the new firmware is probably just set to the wrong one.most of the coding that you will need to mess with is in
by
DaGameFace
-
General
from the read before posting:
3. I want to build a RepRap, what are my options?
A short list of popular machine types is at this link. There is a much more extensive list here: RepRap Options. In addition, there are many other types that may or may not be included in these lists, such as Mendel90, Tantilus, Rostock, 3DR, Morgan, and Simpson.
hyperlinks broken from the paste but the resource is
by
DaGameFace
-
General
I DID THIS! it was easy for me to bypass the 5v reg (which you probably fried but in my case i found that i fried a trace on the underside of the board) I just used a 5v rail from my ATX power supply after removing a transistor from the ramps
by
DaGameFace
-
General
with the power supply off and the arduino plugged in via usb does it work?
by
DaGameFace
-
General
there ya go
by
DaGameFace
-
General