This is a bad idea... What is the motivation for having mixed Max-Min endstops? Whatever you do, the system XYZ must be right-handed so as not to have such reflections as the one you had. The easiest way by far to achieve this in Marlin is to have all min endstops at the right places. If you have a good reason to mix min and max endstops you can still do it, but it is a little counter-intuitivby fixerT - Printing
The extrusion width will ensure good bonding between layers. But it seems you are over-extruding. For a quick check, reduce the extrusion multiplier by 10-20% and see the effect. If it gets better, go back to #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT and enter the right value for your E-axis. To calculate the right value use: E_steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_revolution * driver_microstepping) *by fixerT - Printing
Yes, you're over-extruding. For the corners on your circles, check the grubscrews on your x (and y) pulley(s) are tight.by fixerT - Printing
Quotedavidbananas999 QuotefixerT Have you tried reducing xyjerk? no i havent. What does it do? Sorry I read your message more carefully: I thought you had sporadic shifts in the y-axis, but I now understand you have a consistent smooth shift... So xyjerk won't likely fix this. Have you checked that the y-driver doesn't get too hot? Is the current too high on the y-driver? Do you have heatsinksby fixerT - Printing
This looks strange... As if it is under-extruding at times and over-extruding at other times. Have you checked the hotend is not partially blocked? If that's the case it would do that, i.e. it would mostly under-extrude but then plastic would accumulate and it would periodically unload it by over-extruding. Also worth checking your retraction settings (seems you may be over-extruding on layer chaby fixerT - Printing
Have you tried reducing xyjerk?by fixerT - Printing
Looks like a cooling problem. Play with the fan(s) and printing two of these objects together.by fixerT - Printing
Μπορείς να ανεβάσεις photo ή vid?by fixerT - Greek RepRap User Group, ελληνική ομάδα χρηστών
Α οκ, ξαναδιάβασα. Έχεις ήδη τους FTDI drivers και αφού σου αναγνωρίζει κατασκευαστή είσαι οκ από εκεί. Μπορείς να ξαναπροσπαθήσεις με το Repetier Host, έλεγξε ότι έχεις επιλέξει το σωστό port και δοκίμασε με baudrate 250000 ή 115200. Ακόμη και αν έχει προεγκατεστημένο το firmware και καταφέρεις να συνδεθείς και συνεχίσεις με το comission, σύντομα θα χρειαστεί να κάνεις μικροαλλαγές. H Melziby fixerT - Greek RepRap User Group, ελληνική ομάδα χρηστών
Ακόμη και αν έχει το firmware περασμένο στην πλακέτα θα χρειαστεί να κάνεις μικροαλλαγές. Π.χ. μικρορυθμίσεις στα steps/mm settings, να αντιστρέψεις την λογική των endstops, ή την κατεύθυνση των μοτέρ, κτλ. Το CD δεν είχε firmware ώστε να μπορέσεις να το έχεις στον υπολογιστή σου για να κάνεις αλλαγές πριν το ξαναπεράσεις στην πλακέτα? To manual δεν έχει section για commissioning & calibraby fixerT - Greek RepRap User Group, ελληνική ομάδα χρηστών
What PSU are you using? If using an old PSU from your PC, how many black wires are you using for ground? You need as many as possible and at least as many as your 12V yellow cables. If you don't use enough of your PSU's black wires, what can happen is that the ground voltage be not stable and it can send current to your PC through the USB connection, thus interrupting communication. If that'sby fixerT - Printing
Are you sure it is a jam or is it just that the extruder stops extruding? If the former, how does the filament near the cold end of your extruder look like before and after the jam? Is it aligned with the hole into the extruder? Is it bent after jamming? If it is not a jam and the extruder just stops, is the extruder motor turning after the extruder has stopped extruding? It could just beby fixerT - Printing
I think that you are retracting too much, and, most importantly, the extra length on retraction that you have added spits out more plastic causing your problem at the first moves in each new layer.by fixerT - Printing
Are you using retraction? Check "Extra length on restart" in printer settings--->extruderby fixerT - Printing
The printer cannot possibly know where the centre of your bed is. All it knows is the home position (determined by the location of your endstops), the maximum x, y, and z ranges in mm, and also how many steps it needs to turn the motors to produce a mm of travel. So you just need to go to firmware and enter the correct #define X_MAX_POS (and simly for Y and Z) and #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEby fixerT - Printing
I have written my own print troubleshooting pictorial guide and have kept all photos, so I'll join the club with the reprap PTPG page!by fixerT - Printing
Do you have a min z-endstop? If so, you should adjust its location so that the hot end (at its z-home position) is a bit less than the thickness of a piece of paper away from the bed. I.e. if you slide a piece of (thickish) paper between the hot end and the printing bed/glass, you should feel some friction. Levelling the bed is slightly different in that (after you have done the above at one pby fixerT - Printing
By default you can only run your extruder motor with the hot end heated up above a threshold temperature (usually around 175). If you try otherwise you'll get a message "cold extrusion prevented" and the motor won't turn. You can bypass this by sending the command M302 (disables cold extrusion prevention) and this will then allow you to operate the extruder motor anyway. But to do so, make sureby fixerT - Printing
If you have not identified the problem and you are desperate to print some beautiful things, then a quick fix would be change the steps per mm for your x-axis in firmware by a factor of two. But I also think the problem is most likely the microstepping. If you remove the stepper drivers for the x axis and y axis on your MKS GEN-2Z, they should both have three jumpers below. If they do, removeby fixerT - Printing
The extrusion multiplier is a fudge factor that allows you to do small adjustments to your extrusion rate without changing the steps/mm in firmware. The steps/mm for the extruder depend on the number of teeth of your gears and the diameter of your hobbed bolt at the location where the filament is fed. But yours seems to be roughly correct if you are extruding 9.8cm for 10cm. Have you chosen thby fixerT - Printing
Interesting one! More usual causes of this problem are inadequate tension on the springs, badly cut hobbed bolt, low printing temperature (for large prints, fast infill, there is increased flow in the extruder and it is harder to heat up the passing plastic adequately), and, if you have a geared system, small gear slipping from the motor shaft (for large prints the extruder motor can get hot andby fixerT - Printing
> It's like slic3r is assuming that I am using 3mm filament on E1 while I have 1.75mm on both hotends. But you can select filament settings for each extruder separately in Slic3r and you can choose them to be the same (see attached screenshot). Have you done this?by fixerT - Printing
E3D V6, E3D Lite, Reifsnyder J-heads και ανταλλακτικά εδώ:by fixerT - Greek RepRap User Group, ελληνική ομάδα χρηστών
Your Yoda layer shift could be because of slightly low current in the corresponding motor. The direction of the shift tells you which axis it is. If the belt and pulley of that axis are properly tight (see suggestions by others above), then try adjusting the turnpot of the corresponding stepper driver. Just a single layer shift late in the print (as in your Yoda) could mean that you need to turnby fixerT - Printing