It is still alive. However, I have found it is not scalable. I've had no issues using it recently, but I think it can only handle one skienforge slice at a time. That's why I'll PM you the URL instead of posting it here. Let me know if you have questions,by TheCase - Idaho RUG
Yes. As it stands, it does support parallel slicing. Queuing is totally possible. Pretty easy to implement, thanks for the suggest. I hadn't thought about it. My current plan, other than evaluating feature requests is to port it into one of the more modern frameworks and templating engines.by TheCase - Idaho RUG
I've been working on a cloud-based wrapper for Skeinforge and Slic3r. I've had a very small group of Idaho RUGr's beta testing it. I'd like to open it to a slightly larger group. But, understand it is running on a fairly under powered server and cannot handle more than a few people using it at a time. So, I'd appreciate it if we kept this "in state" for now. That said, it'll certainly slby TheCase - Idaho RUG
I have the PanelMax configuration working with a RAMPS board in Marlin. I've noticed that your code for a 4-bit direct controlled display requires a connection to the RW pin, whereas the PanelMax/Ultipanel code in Marlin does not. Is it possible to remove that requirement? I'd like to avoid rewiring my display, if I can help it.by TheCase - Repetier
Funny enough, I printed a full set of printrbot parts back when it was in beta. Not sure what got updated between now and then, but it should be easy to figure out what needs to be reprinted.by TheCase - Idaho RUG
I'm in the Boise area as well. What were you wanting to have printed?by TheCase - Idaho RUG
So does that mean you'd like to sell me one?by TheCase - Controllers
heh. I couldn't keep the lid on... building the Aluminum Mendel from Thingiverse...by TheCase - Idaho RUG
top plate is 225mm × 225mm and the bottom plate is 140mm x 240mm Holes are pre-drilled and countersunk, edges sanded... ready to install! $10by TheCase - Idaho RUG
For those of you still needing MDF build platforms, I'll be dropping some by the Reuseum this afternoon. No hobbed bolts yet - I broke my tap and probably won't be able to source a new one until Monday.by TheCase - Idaho RUG
That should work for me. I might have my new secret project running by then.by TheCase - Idaho RUG
Answered my own question. I had to change the code in Sprinter to make it act like an High/Low input instead of an output. Basically copied over the code from the FAN_PIN (M106/M107) and changed PS_ON_PIN (M80/M81).by TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
I've got a SSR hooked up to my power supply and would like to use the M80/M81 commands to turn it on and off. I've got the "on" part working, but when it tell it to switch "off", the SSR coil continues to get voltage. I'm using the Sanguinololu's common 5v and expansion pin A4 as ground (and the on/off). I'm assuming I'm doing this wrong. Anyone have ideas?by TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
I've been wanting to add LCD and a keypad for a while now. Could you please share your progress and discoveries here?by TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
I got the rod from lulzbots, But it was much cheaper ($25) when I bought it a few months ago. So it didn't matter that I didn't need the threaded rod from the set. If you have a Fastenal in your area, you should be able to special order in-store to avoid the shipping charges. You'll need 3 pieces.by TheCase - General Mendel Topics
AndyP Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't like the idea of trying to calibrate > skeinforge for two different nozzles. Just wanted to add: working with multiple profiles is quite easy with skeinforge. I have one for ABS, one for PLA at 80mm/s, PLA at 40mm/s, etc ,etc. Was even starting to get to the point of using one profile per color of filament, uby TheCase - Idaho RUG
I'd check out your extruder and/or hobbed bolt before you blame the hotend and nozzle. Also, I've had problems where not enough heat was leading to slippage and inconsistent feed. Then I had to clean out the teeth on the hobbling, as they were filled with plastic. Also, if you set your hotend on a low heat (around 80c), you should be able to pull out the filament in a mostly solid state - whicby TheCase - Idaho RUG
Andrew Diehl Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Print multiple cylinders. ~1in in diameter. > That'll show trouble spots. OK, good idea. Thanks. I'll post back with discoveries/results.by TheCase - General
(EDIT: sorry, posted this before I read the above post). I'm talking about cleaning up stuff like the corner of this part. Seems there is too much of a gap here, but this sort of thing doesn't show up on cubes:by TheCase - General
The last bit I think I need to tune up in my prints is the Clip and/or Retract settings. Is there a good calibration piece that someone could recommend? Corners of cubes don't really seem to show potential issues all that well. I'm mainly concerned about tightening up the gaps as the print head moves up a layer.by TheCase - General
that 4.5mm spec was way off - I'm assuming it was for the flattened area on the shaft. Sourced a 5mm drill bit. A couple minutes on the lathe, the pinions fit like gloves. Dale, apparently, I am OK with reaming them out I'm sometimes astounded by the amount of doubt and "you're doing it wrong" that occurs on this board... might go along with most of us being perfectionists to the point ofby TheCase - General
Regarding the perimeter gap: Depending on the part, I've seen filament-stream sized gaps when Extra Shells are set to anything besides zero. Its the only way to I've been able to ensure no gaps between the infill and the perimeter - especially important on gears (teeth).by TheCase - Idaho RUG
Did a batch of boards ever get made? Is someone selling them?by TheCase - Controllers
Fully assembled and calibrated! It works great, but I can't have two printers in the house. Please help me find a new, loving home for her!by TheCase - For Sale
You only need to connect one pin from the RAMPS to pin 16 of the ATX connector. Then you can define the pin you used as the power supply switch in the firmware. G-Code: M80 turns it on, M81 turns it off.by TheCase - General
I happen to have just listed my complete and calibrated eMaker Huxley today:by TheCase - General
Heh - I was just about to add to this thread with a mention on acceleration in the firmware, based on the other thread you just posted in. Here are the current default values from Configuration.h, for quick reference and comparison with your settings. I will say mine are working, as I've never had a skipped step that was software related (plenty of physical obstacles that cause some though).by TheCase - Idaho RUG