QuoteFlyingLotus1983 Robot Digg has T2.5 16-tooth in machined aluminum, for $1.50: Any suggestions for a 14-tooth pulley?by Physics_Dude - Huxley
QuoteFlyingLotus1983 The GT2 belts might perform better, but the T2.5 on the Huxley is "good enough" from my experience. I agree that the printer still prints quite well, however I've been observing a couple key problems. For one, the X axis is on it's second printed pulley ever since the stock one began slipping on the stepper motor shaft. With the new one, I've been noticing poor engagement wby Physics_Dude - Huxley
Just over a year ago I built my RepRapPro Huxley. I've given it a few minor upgrades over these past months and now I think it's time to replace/upgrade the timing belts. From my understanding the newer (GT2?) belts preform better as well. Currently I am using the stock white T2.5 PU 5mm wide timing belts with 14-tooth printed pulleys (5mm bore). Could someone recommend compatible drop-in replaby Physics_Dude - Huxley
Video update: I went for all or nothing and started printing a larger, slightly altered, version of the test object/head seen prior with other stuff printing next to it on the bed. When it came to the overhang, something cringe worthy happened. The end of the overhang curled up a significant degree and caused the bed to flex down to it's lower limit whenever the nozzle passed overhead. This was sby Physics_Dude - General
Update again: well, it took over two hours, but the latest of the overhang test finished. http://imgur.com/a/pqrzz Slic3r settings were 0.1mm layers, 3 perimeters, 13% infill, infill every 3 (seems to have rounded to 2) layers, and slow if layer print time is below 20 seconds but don't drop below 5mm/s. I also dropped nozzle temperature from 204C to 200C. Overhang quality dropped from the preby Physics_Dude - General
LoboCNC Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I find that printing two of something gives each > part a little more time to cool, and it keeps the > extruder busy so that it doesn't drool. You could > also introduce a simple "time killer" part with a > known layer print time that you print along side > your real part. I'm using a ~400mm Bowden extrudby Physics_Dude - General
Update: Using the cooling settings of: "Slow down if print time is less then 30 seconds with a min feed rate of 5mm/s" I got acceptable results: http://imgur.com/a/suhzC That was a curved transition from zero to a near 90deg overhang. This one piece of a scan took just under two hours to print (0.15mm layers with 3 perimeters and 13% honey comb infill). The final, full piece, which will be abouby Physics_Dude - General
lister6520 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Make sure you also set the parameter "slow down > if layer print time is below 0 seconds" to a > longer time, perhaps 20 seconds or more. If you > leave that at zero then the overall minimum feed > rate will have no effect. Whenever I would try this feature, I would stick with the defaults: "slow if layerby Physics_Dude - General
Update: After many ugly attempts at printing overhangs, I decided to print a blower attachment for my hot end. Results were less then perfect even when using this overpowered 40mm by 20mm fan. I reverted back to the large full-area cooling fan. What would help a lot is if Slic3r would pause for a moment between each layer of a small object, move a few mm away, then move back again after the layeby Physics_Dude - General
Currently, the best my Huxley can do is about 55deg off vertical before things start to look bad. The hardware is using PLA with a 0.3mm nozzle and a large full-area cooling fan. Are there any variables I should look over in Slic3r to give me the best results when printing large overhangs (i.e. speed, cooling, layer height, perimeters, etc.)?by Physics_Dude - General
Suljo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Try to play with layer high. First. See > Calibration files about at the middle of the > page. > ... I just printed several 0.5mm thin-wall tests at various speeds and layer heights. I also measured Z axis travel with digital calipers. Everything was spot on. Attached is two of the prints where the only the layerby Physics_Dude - Huxley
They are pointed out in the attached picture. Basically, these artifacts occur in areas where the print head is traveling fast while extruding and not over cool air from the one 120mm fan in back. Slowing down the whole system only remedies the issue slightly. Two other solutions I was considering were changing the temperature (from 204C, PLA) and printing a fan attachment for the print head.by Physics_Dude - Huxley
Added 3D Pinpoint to the main list on Reddit.by Physics_Dude - General
I suppose I should keep a mirror of the list here as well. - makexyz - CowFab - 3D Hubs - Supply Better - Azavy - RepRapClassifieds (Reddit) - You3Ditby Physics_Dude - General
waitaki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Why is that? It used to be because of a 1mm spacer to go between the glass and PCB heat bed for protecting its thermister. This spacer was designed in an"X" shape with one end in each corner of the print bed. The binder clips would otherwise warp the PCB if not placed individually in each corner. You can kind of seby Physics_Dude - Slic3r
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I avoid such problems by defining the origin in > the middle of the bed instead of a corner. That would make sense, but I would still have to dodge the clip after all the axes find their end-stops. This clip is only a few centimeters away from the homing position.by Physics_Dude - Slic3r
Hello RepRapers, I started compiling a list of the seemingly many online 3D printing services that can put some of our idle printers to (profitable) work for the printerless community out there. The full list is here on Reddit, and in order to get as much input as possible, I'm reaching out to all of you as well. The list is always growing, so if you know of any other services that have not yby Physics_Dude - General
I recently upgraded the heat bed on my RepRapPro Huxley with a cold glass bed. It is held in place with four binder clips, one in each corner. Every time a print is about to start, the nozzle strikes the clip closest to the home position. Even though this acts as a decent nozzle wipe, I'd like to know how I can avoid this obstacle in Slic3r before each print. Adding "G1 Z3 F5000" in the Start G-by Physics_Dude - Slic3r
After further inspection during a print I realized this is not as much of an issue as originally expected. (At least I dont think it is) While printing at a set 205C the temperature drops al low as 200.6C and as high as 206.2C; I assume this is normal-ish. Due to the lack of anti-aliasing in Pronterface's temperature graph, I have mistook the three pixel jumps for significant temperature changesby Physics_Dude - Huxley
I did get the 19v cartridge heater, I'm sure of that. I doubt PID_Max would be the issue. When starting a print, the hot end heats up properly with no overshoot. Identical to the old wire wound resistor installed prior. The fluctuating temperature seen now however is new. It's only during the PID Autotune that the hot end overshoots.by Physics_Dude - Huxley
Hi all. I recently replaced the hot end resistor on my RepRapPro Huxley with a new cartridge heater and nozzle. Afterwords I noticed that, in Pronterface, the hot end temperature tends to oscillate around the set temperature by a few degrees. I figured a PID Autotune would be in order, but when I run the commands, the temperature rises, overshoots (around 30C over), and says PID Autotune failed!by Physics_Dude - Huxley
I think I had a similar problem. I previously had a little bit of tape holding in the two bottom bearings on the X axis as I found them to be quite loose. A few weeks later, after using a Zip-tie bearing holder I found on Thingiverse, I noticed the X carriage was a little bent a where the belt ends lock in. To solve this I mashed two different Huxley X carriage designs I found on Thingiverse intby Physics_Dude - Huxley
Myles Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Have you checked your wiring, tighten up the > connectors on the board, try using a different > motor for the extruder, > Just ideas! All the connections are nice and tight and the motor is fine. I upped its current earlier, but that only made the hobbed bolt skip more adilmalik Wrote: --------------------------by Physics_Dude - Printing
I spoke too soon. The printer is back to it's normal struggle extruding filament . What should I do?by Physics_Dude - Printing
Alright people, I ended up doing a full rebuild of the hot end. I started by oiling the PTFE tube with a little 3-in-One. Then, while heated and with the nozzle removed, I vacated any plastic left in the hot end. After burning/melting out most of the plastic, I also gave the brass nozzle several baths in different solvents. (i.e. Warm acetone, boiling water, and vinegar.). After putting everythby Physics_Dude - Printing
The Bowden-style extruder for my RepRapPro Huxley with 0.3mm nozzle and PLA sadly isn't extruding as great as it used to. It was only recently that the hobbed bolt and stepper motor started skipping intermittently even at slow speeds. I tried clearing out the nozzle, cleaning the hobbed bolt, even raising the temperature by a few degrees. Nothing seems to remedy the problem. Any suggestions?by Physics_Dude - Printing
Quotecrispy1 0.9.7 produces support material that is much easier to remove than previous versions. Eh, not from my experience, but then again, I haven’t toyed around with much of the settings responsible for support material. Any thoughts on how adjusting support material extrusion width would help? What about pattern spacing, or speed?by Physics_Dude - Slic3r
From my experience, Slic3r's support material adheres to the printed parts much too well and always returned unpleasing results. Does anyone have any pointers for producing cleaner support/part bonds that don’t leave such harsh artifacts on the part being printed? Specifically I'm looking for ideal settings related to extrusion width, speed, pattern/spacing, etc. I'm using a RepRapPro Huxley wiby Physics_Dude - Slic3r
In response to DeuxVis, Yes, that would make sense. Given the slight wiggle room inside the PTFE tube, there would be a delay at the hot end. I much prefer Slic3r over Skeinforge, but it does not include its own related Dwindle feature. Perhaps, if the Hardware allows it (Melzi V2.0), then a faster retraction speed cap may be in order. Currently it seems like 45mm/s is the cap. I'm not sure iby Physics_Dude - Reprappers
I tested various new settings using an ooze test block from Thingiverse (in PLA), here are the results. (A score of 10 out of 10 is most preferred) 1. 235C, 3mm retraction at 120mm/s - Score 3/10 2. 225C, 3mm retraction at 120mm/s - Score 5/10 3. 225C, 5mm retraction at 120mm/s - Score 5.5/10 4. 218C, 3mm retraction at 120mm/s - Score 6/10 (seen in original post) 5. 218C, 5mm retraction aby Physics_Dude - Reprappers