Ar mai fi de spus ca, inainte de a optimiza curentu prin drivere, e tare indicat sa se alinieze si sa se greseze bine axeleby 3Dmaker4U - Suport instalare si punere in functiune
Quoteefa I do not know what is the parameter "Z distance = 0" ? Do you mean "Contact Z distance" set to "0 (soluble)"? Yes Quoteefa The other parameters I sent in attached "Slicer1.2.9supportsSettings.png" in the Print Settings tab, Support material, are OK? Look fine for me.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
Pentru orice imprimanta de talie normala (adica, cam orice isi face/cumpara omul de rand), realizata ingrijit si calibrata cu atentie, orice driver e bun.by 3Dmaker4U - Suport instalare si punere in functiune
Do not expect the bottom surface of the supported part to look like the one on the bed. You would normally have to do some post-processing to get a reasonable appearance. I would use the following settings: - Z distance = 0 - Pattern spacing = 2 mm The idea is to have an "as solid as possible" support, yet easy to cut away after printing. This way the surface will me more consistent.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
Pai, depinde ce si cum e configurat firmware-ul pus pe ele.by 3Dmaker4U - Software si aspecte post-instalare
Firstly, I just wonder why do you need a rectangular profile for the thread (helix). Otherwise, assuming all the other overhangs are horizontal, you can try increasing (I think) the Overhang threshold near to the value for horizontal surfaces. It should be very close, so that the slope of the helix will not trigger the overhang.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
An alternative to only increase the number of perimeters is to combine decreasing layer height and increasing extrusion width (e.g. to 0.6 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle) Somehow you can get what you want with the lowest possible impact on time spent and material used.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
Perhaps you have to disable bridge detection. The horizontal plane is considered as doable with bridging capabilities supported at the two end by the support for fillets.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
Nu sunt numai gauri. Sunt tot felul de suprafete ramase de la primitivele cu care a fost facut modelul. Programul cu care s-a facut exportul e cat se poate de varza. Dar am vazut si un ezport dintr-un program de arhitectura care facea cate si mai cate nebunii. Daca moare cineva de dragostea modelului, atunci se poate repara manual, chiar si in MeshMixer, dar trebuie taiat felii pentru a vedea siby 3Dmaker4U - Software si aspecte post-instalare
1. PEEK-ul poate nu e foarte PEEK. 2. Temperatura indicata (daca este cat de cat reala) este cam mica pentru ABS. In conditiile astea, presiunea care se creaza in interiorul varfului poate sa-l impinga afara din PEEK. Incearca sa mai cresti temperatura. La o temperatura corecta, extruziunea trebuie sa curga frumos si firul trebuie sa aiba o suprafata lucioasa dupa racire. Cam orice ABS ar trebuiby 3Dmaker4U - Suport instalare si punere in functiune
Problemele incep de la hotend. Faptul ca se impinge greu filamentul poate avea urmatoarele cauze principale, care pot sa apara independent, deci si simultan: 1. varf partial infundat; foarte posibil dupa cele relatate; bagatul sarmei de jos in sus rezolva doar temporar problema; cauta pe forumul Ultimaker curatarea prin metoda "atomic pull"; 2. temperatura insuficienta; pot fi diverse cauze pentrby 3Dmaker4U - Suport instalare si punere in functiune
It's perfectly acceptable. I would say even recommended, meaning to set all extrusion widths equal to 0.4 mm. Moreover, to prevent some issues with thin walls, you may want to set the nozzle diameter to 0.39 mm instead of 0.4 mm.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
What you experience is curling due to overhangs. The simplest thing to do in most cases is using the cooling fan to cool down the extrusion as it is laid down. It can also help, especially in cases where overhang starts from the very first layer and total surface of a layer is relatively low, to slow down the print so that it gives more time to the extruded plastic to cool. What I do not get byby 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
The outstanding perimeters are an example of overextrusion. After the prinder foes a "fast solid infill" certain pressure is built in the melting chamber of the nozzle. This is slowly released, along with the predetermined extrusion for the perimeters of the next layers and hence a bit more plastic is extruded. The phenomenon is more visible in case of Bowden printers. Some measures to reduce theby 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
Nu abandona, ca o sa-ti para rau... cand te vei trezi Nu ai treaba cu EXP2 ca deranjezi afisajul. Trebuie sa interceptezi AUX3 de pe RAMPS. Ori iti faci o cupla noua pentru LCD cu SD card separat (mai greu), ori tai traseele care merg de la conectorul de la AUX3 la EXP2 (daca se poate) ori scoti complet conectorul de pe cupla de LCD care se conecteaza la AUX3 si te legi cu o panglica cu conectorby 3Dmaker4U - Suport instalare si punere in functiune
Mai e cineva pe aici care vrea sa foloseasca slotul de card drept USB host SPI este o interfata "de interior" inventata pentru a conecta "periferice" aflate in interiorul unui aparat. Acum, daca tii mortis sa folosesti cititorul aflat pe spatele controlerrului (desi ai putea sa ei unul separat si sa lasi cardul pe imprimanta), ti-ar trebui niste transceivere (erau unele de RS485 ieftine). Daca vby 3Dmaker4U - Suport instalare si punere in functiune
I think for some reasons, perhaps some higher voltage appeared on the tip of the soldering iron (it is not uncommon) has find the way from the +19V rail to the microcontroller outputs that control the drivers and fried them. Now, whenever after a reset (which configures the outputs as inactive) you give a command, the 5V rail drops and the controller enters in an undefined state. You can check tby 3Dmaker4U - Huxley
Check with the power jumper taken out. This will power the logic from USB and eventually eliminate some influences of the commands to the 5V rail. However, I think you fried something, unfortunately. Which wires did you actually solder (+19V, GND, thermistor or command wire) and which other wires do you think could be touched (shortcircuited) during the "repair"?by 3Dmaker4U - Huxley
Sigur ca exista asa ceva: Si poti cupla un Smart Controller care are si SD card reader. Care evident ca e pus destul de aiureaby 3Dmaker4U - Progres, imbunatatiri. Alte proiecte si idei
Have you tried to disconnect all motors and give the commands with no load? The behavior is the same if you home any axis? Are other power commands working? I mean heating the bed or heating the hotend or turning fan on.by 3Dmaker4U - Huxley
Nu cred ca exista asa ceva. Este outin cam lipsit de sens din punct de vedere al ratiunii unui (micro)SD card in raport cu un port USB host. Tehnic este probabil posibil, dar la fel de probabil aproape nimeni nu va simti o nevoie similara. Nu e mai simplu sa lipesti cu grija o panglica si sa-l legi la un slot de SD extern cu posibilitate de fixare pe panou, astfel incat sa-l pui unde vrei tu si sby 3Dmaker4U - Progres, imbunatatiri. Alte proiecte si idei
Indeed you should Or better report to the moderator suggesting to move the entire thread.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
In Slic3r, in the Printer settings you both the size of the printing bed and the position that Slic3r should consider to be the center of the printing area. The center, not the origin. If they are not actually in the physical center of the bed, then the print will be offset accordingly. For example, if you have the size 200x200 and the center (200,200), everything will be positioned (in G-code) cby 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
The fact that an application is in "stable" version, does not mean that it has no issues at all. On the other hand, the fact that you get an error for 1 out of 100 files, does not mean your model file is free from errors. Some errors are corrected automatically, some generates erroneous code and some may crash the application. Though apparently is, trust is not an absolute thingby 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
You should increase the number of perimeters, to make sure the perimeters above overlap the ones below. If the option to add perimeter as needed is checked, this would normally be accomplished automatically.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
Regular support might not work. The hair starts so pointed (sharp) that Slic3r perhaps cannot match the support. Try tu use MeshMixer and add pillar support. Alternatively, you can use the same MeshMixer to flat a bit the tips and then give Slic3r another chance.by 3Dmaker4U - Slic3r
@Alex Ia legatura cu Alin Stefan - link-ul e de FB, daca ai greturi n-am ce-ti face Are doua FilaBot si le rasuceste de zor. Daca o faci, indruma-l si spre aici, poate mai crestem galagiaby 3Dmaker4U - Progres, imbunatatiri. Alte proiecte si idei
In general: - parts will print great with 0.5 mm extrusion width. - layer height could be 0.2, 0.25 or even higher. - infill of 20% will make it However, some parts may benefit for some special settings. Have a look at you G-code files after slicing (I recommend gcode.ws), layer by layer, and try to identify any issues. If found, take the respective part separately and try to tune the settings fby 3Dmaker4U - Huxley
Nu e bine nici sa ai masa termica prea mare. Daca vrei sa incalzesti mai tare numai la primul strat si pe urma sa o mai racoresti, pe lagga faptul ca se incalzeste greu, vei constata ca se si raceste cam tot la fel.by 3Dmaker4U - Suport instalare si punere in functiune
Pai, daca imprimanta e stramba si palpezi din 10 in 10 mm patul atunci o sa printeze drept? Mai sa fieby 3Dmaker4U - Suport instalare si punere in functiune