What is the normal way to attach a silicone heated bed to a metal heat spreader? I've been searching around and haven't came across any good answers yet :-/by FlyingLotus1983 - General
http://midwestreprapfest.org/ March 20-22nd 2015 Elkhart County 4H Fairgrounds in Elkhart, Indiaina Is anyone going to this? I did a search, but didn't see anything come up for 2015. I signed up to get more details, but noone has emailed me back. I don't see a contact form either. As I bought my plane tickets a while back (they're cheaper that way), and have already taken the time off of woby FlyingLotus1983 - General
I think this was just a matter of using the wrong calculation on the potentiometer current limiting... I think the sticks were going into over-current protection, and then coming back out of it. I added heatsinks and dialed them down, and it's running great now.by FlyingLotus1983 - Controllers
Some other info that might help.... The /ENABLE line is solid-low when commanded to be enabled, and solid-high when not enabled. MS1, MS2, and MS3 are all permanently tied high, as my delta mechanism really should only be run with 16x microstepping. /SLEEP is tied to /RESET per the Pololu page, and the RAMPS 1.4 schematic. Motor power is +12V from a pretty standard switching power supply +5V isby FlyingLotus1983 - Controllers
Hi guys, I've created a custom motion controller for my new RepRap based pick and place / 3D printer: COMPLETELY open source, btw.... let's get that out of the way. I'm finally getting it running, and it seems like when the motors are enabled, I'm hearing this weird repeating pattern of pwm noises. I'm watching the stepper signals on a scope, they'll do the PWM and then just go to the +12Vby FlyingLotus1983 - Controllers
So I emailed Brian Reifsnyder at hotends.com about getting a 0.3mm J-Head made (they only list 0.5, 0.4, and 0.35 on the site). He said that he can definitely make a 0.3mm, but that it is considered more of "experimental nature" and can be easily clogged. So he recommends a 0.35 mm tip. I already ordered a 0.4mm tip from him for a scratch-built Prusa i2 that I still need to finish... and it doby FlyingLotus1983 - Printing
Haven't tried other slicers yet. Like I said I thought it was going to be difficult but I have seen others do it and I'm wondering what their secret is. I might just pull the trigger and get an 0.3mm nozzle and try it with that. If anyone else has successfully printed GT2 2mm please let me know how you did itby FlyingLotus1983 - Printing
I'm having a problem printing out 2mm pitch GT2 pulleys, via the OpenSCAD script below: My printer is calibrated pretty well, but the pulley teeth aren't as defined as they should be. The root circle (teeth bottom land), pitch circle, and outside diameter (teeth top land) are all so close together that the belt slips. I'm using an eMaker Huxley with a 0.5mm tip, slic3r 1.00 RC3 with pretty aby FlyingLotus1983 - Printing
Quotewaitaki QuoteFlyingLotus1983I'm a little late to the party but I'm ordering parts for four (4) Prusa i2's, which should run about $200 each, give or take. Heated bed, LM8UU bearings, GT2 metal pulleys, no other real shortcuts taken. Wouldn't be possible without Chinese parts but that's no real surprise. We're just going right to the source rather than through a middleman store front. Areby FlyingLotus1983 - General
I've placed three orders with pushplastic so far, and will likely be ordering more in the near future. The price went up to $28 or $29 shipped, but that ends up being about $19 in their pocket and about $10 in the Postal Services's pocket (well $10.66 USPS Priority Mail for my last order, according to the shipping label), so I don't feel indignant about the price going up, at all, they're just iby FlyingLotus1983 - For Sale
Just wanted to say that these guys are legit. Great prices, and great quality as well. I received my second order from them today, which included vitamin parts for five Prusa Mendel i2 RepRaps. This was basically a group buy, between a few co-workers, and thanks to RobotDigg we were able to hit a price point of around $225-$240 each. NEMA 17 stepper motors are basically $6.50 each plus shippiby FlyingLotus1983 - Vitamin Kit for Sale
I use canola oil to keep my Bowden extruder from binding up. Some of it does end up making to the hot end, and I'm pretty sure that's why my flow problems have disappeared on my eMaker Huxley with its stock hotend. The way I do it is to take a paper towel and lightly apply it to the first 12" of filament, before I put it into the extruder. Oh, and canola oil has a higher smoke point than olivby FlyingLotus1983 - For Sale
I've had better luck following Nophead's advice and printing at a constant speed where possible. This gives a more consistent flow rate out of the nozzle, by keeping the "plug" size constant where the plastic is transitioning from solid to melted. I've got everything except for rapid movements and bridging set to around 30mm/sec and all my prints have been looking great. There are probably othby FlyingLotus1983 - Printing
Just a shot in the dark... I've gotten prints like that when I had slic3r configured to do the inside perimeter first. Setting it to outside perimeter first may fix it.by FlyingLotus1983 - Printing
Quoteohioplastics I picked up some ajax and some pipe cleaners today. Polished a couple with a power drill. They look really shiny! Whether or not it helps PLA extrusion, couldn't say, but at least I'll sleep better knowing that the inside of my tubes are polished. There could be 50 things that can cause a hot end to jam. The tubes are just my best guess. I'm skeptical that it really makes that bby FlyingLotus1983 - For Sale
Not really, maybe the either the eMaker store or RepRapPro (send an email or PM if it's not listed on the website). My Huxley doesn't use printed pulleys (although they're plastic... they are concentric which is what's important I guess). So I'm assuming they'll sell you those. I've not searched for what you're after specifically but I'm sure they're available out there somewhere. I'm 99% surby FlyingLotus1983 - Huxley
QuotePhysics_Dude QuoteFlyingLotus1983 The GT2 belts might perform better, but the T2.5 on the Huxley is "good enough" from my experience. I agree that the printer still prints quite well, however I've been observing a couple key problems. For one, the X axis is on it's second printed pulley ever since the stock one began slipping on the stepper motor shaft. With the new one, I've been noticingby FlyingLotus1983 - Huxley
The GT2 belts might perform better, but the T2.5 on the Huxley is "good enough" from my experience. My prints come out great as-is, so I'm not sure how much performance you'd be gaining by "upgrading". Unless your belts are severely worn from 24/7 use, I would just make sure they're tightened down and enjoy your Huxley If you want to tinker and upgrade, you can always print out a Prusa Mendelby FlyingLotus1983 - Huxley
Quoteepicepee Just ordered a kilo from PushPlastics, $31.50 with shipping. We'll see how well it works. My order just showed up today. I got the assortment of 5 or 6 colors so it might be a day or two before I can try them all and report back.by FlyingLotus1983 - General
I'm a little late to the party but I'm ordering parts for four (4) Prusa i2's, which should run about $200 each, give or take. Heated bed, LM8UU bearings, GT2 metal pulleys, no other real shortcuts taken. Wouldn't be possible without Chinese parts but that's no real surprise. We're just going right to the source rather than through a middleman store front.by FlyingLotus1983 - General
Quotetjb1 I've used and had a lot of luck with it, it prints very nicely at 170-175 while the PLA I have from Ultimachine likes to be printed at 205 but seems to print a little easier. I usually just shop for the best price out of places I trust. I've used JustPLA, their prices are great and can be bought with free shipping from Amazon Prime for $32/kg. I've had great luck with their Turquoiseby FlyingLotus1983 - General
Buy the $13 drill bit if you think it might fix it. Find a makerspace that has a lathe or other tooling if necessary. But most importantly, be honest with your customers. If you've not done enough testing with PLA, say so from the beginning rather than boasting about how good it is Hope that's not too harsh. I like where your hotend design is going as the genuine J-Head is very expensive.by FlyingLotus1983 - For Sale
Quoteohioplastics I've had alot of complaints with people using it with PLA. I think it has something to do with the steal barrel. I'm working on trying to get the 2mm hole smoother, although I have limited machining capacity. I'll try another drill bit & we'll see how it goes. @ $13 a drill bit, I'm hesitant to make the leap, but I guess it's gotta be done. I'll send replacement barrels foby FlyingLotus1983 - For Sale
Well I just pulled the trigger and bought one. I will report back here with my findings.by FlyingLotus1983 - For Sale
Bump, I'd like to if anyone has ordered one of these yet to confirm how well they work.by FlyingLotus1983 - For Sale
To answer my own question, I found this: and these: So it's settled, I'm going vertical with the X carriageby FlyingLotus1983 - General Mendel Topics
I'm looking to build a Mendel from scratch very soon. I was given an eMaker Huxley kit by a friend a few weeks back, I've since built it and commissoned it, and it's making fantastic prints. The only negative thing is a somewhat limited parts size. So the obvious solution here is to build a full-size Mendel (and luckily all of the full-size plastic parts can be printed on my tiny Huxley). I'vby FlyingLotus1983 - General Mendel Topics
Ah. Well that makes a lot of sense in retrospect. I guess I thought the extrusion multiplier was for something else like a modifier of the filament diameter. I'm mid-print and it looks the best it's ever looked. I feel like a bit of an idiot for missing that. Thanks for all your help.by FlyingLotus1983 - Printing
So after looking at it for a bit, I see two ways that I could go about lowering my extruder flow rate, assuming that slic3r sets the extruder feed rate based off of a combination of the X/Y feedrate, filament size, nozzle diameter, and is limited by the max feedrates of the X/Y steppers, and the extruder stepper. #1: Lower XY feedrate (Print Settings -> Speed -> Speed for print moves) in Sby FlyingLotus1983 - Printing
QuoteDirty Steve Reduce your extruder flow rate, you are over extruding a bit. top surfaces should be smoother and not bulge up like in your prints. If you are using a Wades type geared extruder, generally you should be around 1mm of retraction. Lower your Z lift to double your layer height. With 2.5mm of retraction the hot-end sets in one spot on the print much longer than it does for 1mm retraby FlyingLotus1983 - Printing