Those adjustments seem to have worked. I've now printed three fairly large things without trouble, so hopefully it'll continue to work now. Thanks everybody for your help!by villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
I found that 100mm extrude extruded 100.5mm of filament so I adjusted a little and now it's spot on. Made a few more adjustments including loosening the idler screws juust a bit since I heard that too-tight idler can cause extrusion troubles. Gonna try a test print in a minute here.by villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
Just attached a pic of the problem when it happened last. The filament bunches up *then* the hobbed bolt gouges into the filament and stops moving it. After getting the hotend PID autotuned and everything, the hotend heated up pretty fast and I watched it stay hot for a whole print—printed myself a new herringbone wade gear that ended up not fitting my hobbed bolt anyway. I'm not sure if I'll beby villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
Could it be that my hobbed bolt is out of alignment? I notice every time this happens, the filament bunches up under the idler just outside the hole going down into the J-head, then the hobbed bolt cuts into the filament and it stops moving....by villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been having troubles with this on and off but have been fixing other things about my printer. 1) As per my other postings in this forum, that ended up being a heater cartridge problem that's now been solved. After installing the correct heater resistor and re-doing my PID settings in the firmware the hotend is heating up beautifully. 2) I adjust my steppers when they skip or make noise, butby villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
Okay! Just got a chance to measure everything. The heater resistor is a little below 15Ω, and the power supply is supplying 12 volts, so I have a pretty good feeling that this resistor is meant for 24-volt systems as with just 12 it is a little under 10 watts of power. That is almost certainly not enough. The power supply I have has two outputs, so if I were to tie them together theoretically Iby villainous - Controllers
Haven't had a chance to check it yet but I will in a few hours once I'm done with work for the day. I'm guessing this is a MOSFET I can check with an infrared thermometer? I can use that to check the temperature of the hotend and the MOSFET. The heater resistor claims to be 40W, which should be more than sufficient, but I'm definitely not seeing 40 watts worth of heating happening here. If it's tby villainous - Controllers
I'm having a very similar problem, where my hotend won't stay heated up as filament is flowing through it. It takes a very long time to get up to temperature (though less time now in bang-bang mode). I'm gonna try a different resistor tomorrow but I wanted to know, how would one get the temperature tables for a given resistor, and how can that be used to update the firmware? How are PID values caby villainous - Controllers
That appears to have worked! Thanks much.by villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a problem where the Y axis shifts during a print, causing parts to become slightly offset from their original shape. It's almost the kind of behavior that would happen if the Y axis belt were slipping, but I can't tell if it is. Not every print is affected, so it might possibly be something with my gcode files; the same print will mess up nearly identically a second time.by villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
sarf2k4 you are correct that it's quad-core with threads, but it still should be able to handle serial communications. I've hooked the 3D printer up to a PC that has nothing better to do right now and hopefully that resolves it. The reason for my delay on an SD card slot is that my RAMPS board is mounted on the frame in such a way that if I added an SDramps, it would be in the way of the X-axis sby villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks everybody! I had better results running the 3D printer off a laptop that wasn't doing anything else. I think I'll also renice Simplify3D to have a higher CPU priority than other tasks but it's a little hard to believe that with 8 cores on my CPU I'm having process-contention issues. I'll try a few prints at 250Kbaud and report back with my findings.by villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
I set my Z endstop a few mm higher and it's still happening. I don't dispute that my build plate might be a little uneven but I don't think that's what's causing this problem. Attaching a photo of a raft I discarded, showing the missing row of filament and the glob of filament at the ends.by villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
After adding all three jumpers under every stepstick, very carefully adjust the trimpot screws on the stepsticks, one at a time. For mine, I only installed one stepstick at a time, testing each stepper motor before adding another one, because getting the current setting wrong on one of those can burn it out (I learned that the hard way). For each stepper motor, install the jumpers, then the stepby villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
I just built a Prusa i3 using an i3 rework kit from Replikeo (Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 + Stepstick), and I am getting a very strange extrusion behavior over here, but only in *some* prints. I am using Simplify3D for slicing and also to drive the printer over USB (I don't have an SD card slot on it yet). While printing the first layer of the raft, when it's laying down horizontal lines of thick plby villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi everybody! I'm having some troubles with my geared extruder for my Prusa i3 Rework. I've now had it jam a whole bunch of times on me and I'm having trouble figuring out what the problem might be. I'm using the Wade's geared extruder with the gears perpendicular to the X axis, that comes with the i3 Rework. Couple questions: 1) How important is the fan that's mounted on the extruder, and whatby villainous - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey all, Turns out my heatbed PCB was faulty and I'm getting another one sent to me. Thanks for your help!by villainous - Huxley
Thanks for your replies! 3Dmaker4U: What does the jumper wire on the HB actually select? I have it soldered right now per the Huxley instructions. What is the "active" HB terminal and what is it for? Right now only two terminals in a 3-terminal block are connected on my HB connector (the power connector coming from the main supply, not the ribbon cable).by villainous - Huxley
The heated bed PCB came from RepRapPro as is. Maybe i fried the MOSFET during soldering but I doubt it. I notice on the Melzi controller there's connectors for the heated bed; can these be used in lieu of the MOSFET since it appears the MOSFET is always open no matter what?by villainous - Huxley
Judging from the results of my Googling, it seems like a lot of people have had the problem where their heatbed won't switch *on*, but is anyone having the reverse problem? I'm trying to calibrate mine right now and get it set up for its first print, but the heatbed gets very hot and I'd like to be able to switch it off. Setting the temperature in Pronterface does nothing. I have a RepRapPro/eMakby villainous - Huxley