Would you not just use multiple identical lasers, collimating lenses with known focal length fed to another collimating lens in to the optic cable?by printa3d - MetalicaRap
My method NFI if it works but it should. Purchase a few things home brew/wine making shop and purchase sodium bisulfite as neutraliser. & from UK. The two links point to white palladium plating solution & tin plating solution extra fine pumice powder copper pipe plastic tubs caswell triple and hard chrome plating kits Couple of methods to etch the surface. physical or chemical Phby printa3d - General
Attached 3dstuffmaker configuration.h and configuraturiong_adv.h. I used firmware from mendel-parts download link arduino. Though pain was in sorting out eclipse/arduino on ubuntu.by printa3d - General
I put the printer away for about 6-7 months just a total waste of energy, time and cash. After much frustration it now has an e3dv6 hotend on modified 3dstuffmaker x carriage, axteeg x5 & mechanical switches. Printed large gear for extruder, original was out of round by +3mm or so. Had to have large amount of backlash/spacing. Gen6 sorted by soldering 100ohm resistors into all 3 optical enby printa3d - General
Bought a couple of j heads for testing. Put about 200mm filament through, then the extruder motor gave up, not enough torque, unable to drive filament. I have a 40mm 12v laptop fan blowing on the top of the hotend running constantly whenever the printer is powered up and could touch the top of the hotend and push filament through by hand no problems. IR temp gun showed temp difference of ~3'c bby printa3d - General
Printer is now working - currently using 5-6 layers of blue tape holding the hotend together. I have not pulled the hotend to bits to work out exactly what the problem is. Once the other hotend arrives I will pull this current one to bits to find out what is wrong with it. I tested pcb using a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor (used for driving an led) out of my junk jar and soldered on a few wire connecby printa3d - General
I have taken another few days away from the printer. After some more piddling about with it. Disconnected belts and the two z threaded rods, then disconnected and reconnected motors and optical sensors to other axis for testing. Completed swapping around and test for all motors and optical sensors. The optical sensors and motors appear to be fine. Now the disconnections and jittering occuby printa3d - General
Just an update - support has been responsive. Have pulled the motor and sensor connectors off and checked for obvious pin or cable damage. Now need to pull the fan off and have a good look at the board itself. I have the configuration & config.adv files, (appear to be very standard marlin config files - nothing that looks at all unique to this printer) & have provided the original heby printa3d - General
So far-ok have had my prusa classic kit about 2 weeks. Build went easy as, initial play with the printer OK. Print a cude/cuboid. Very average with the .7mm head. I need to mod the firmware due to not extruding correct amount, out by 10mm. But also struck the "We will send you the hex file". There is some weird behaivour going on with the electronics, either PCB or some other problem possiblyby printa3d - General
Your previous messages state you work for 3dstuffmaker. Have a 3dstuffmaker classic prusa diy kit printer recent purchase. Are you able to provide the configuration.h file for the gen6 board for the classic prusa/explorer kit. The amount extruded is incorrect eg 40mm instead of 50mm 9amoung a few other problems). I think possibly there is a faulty optical sensor causing some jittering/wierd beby printa3d - General