Tried creos solution, but with no luck, bed is still switchning several times per second :0( I have tried slow pwm seting and it works perfect with bed, what is worse, it slows all hotends switching too :0(by zemciko - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Nevim jak ostatní. Já bral z czechreprap.eu 12kg roli a tisku tím doteď bez problémů (natural). Ale je pravda, že mám vlastní extruder (nemá problém s průměrem 3,05 bo vnitřek je vrtaný 3,4) a jedu na 265°C (nedelaminuje se). Výhoda byla hlavně přijatelnější cena. Ted koukám že stránky czechreprap.eu au ani neexistují.by zemciko - Problémy
No pokud má někdo zájem tak je možné přidat i můj hotend. Čas od časi nějaký nechám vyrobit za 1000kč + poštovné. Ale jen CZ případně SK. viz. je tam i odkaz na email. JInak si ho můžete vyrobit i sami (mám tam výkresy, poslední verze má jen mírně lépe řešené šroubky na hotendu). Standardně je pro 3mm filament, ale už jsem dělal i na 1.75. Trysky 0.5 nebo 0.3mm.by zemciko - Hotendy a hlavy
Bublinky nemusi byt jen teplotou ale i obsahem vlhkosti (nekvalitní, málo vysušený).........by zemciko - FAQ & HOW-TO a odkazy
Dostaly se mi do ruky 4 druhy ABS. Bohužel žádný výrobce nebyl nikdy schopen dodat technická data k materiálu. Každý z těch druhů se chovzal trochu jinak. Začnu po pořadě. 1. "přírodní" ABS od grrf.de cena celkem vysoká, asi 550kč/kg potřebuje vyšší teplotu (běžně používám 250°C) výtisky jsou v dobré kbvalitě a má relativně lepší smrštění. 2. Šedé ABS, pokus jedné české/moravské firmy co vyrábíby zemciko - FAQ & HOW-TO a odkazy
When im printing slim part (like propeller for quadracopter) i have problem with too small raft and support. Its realy nice, that i can change nuber of support layers (its good especially for this slim parts) but if support beam is too slim, it wil not be printed ok. Would be possible to add 2 settings (inflate raft +xx mm, and inflate support +xx mm)? Minimum possible size for inside supportby zemciko - Slic3r
Just from fast overview 1. looks like low temperature for me (try increase +5,+10+15 etc) (thermistors are +- several percents) 2. layer_height = 0.15 extremly low (usually 0,25-0,4) start with 0.4 then try lower numbers.by zemciko - General Mendel Topics
U can try mine as well. It look litle more complicated then watsons wersion (two clamps instead one and more parts). But v 2.5 is realy good and as bonus it can be easily mounted/demounted, including heater element and thermistor. Plus two heater resistor can heat hotend realy fast.... U need only lathe and table drill. Milling machine is good but not necesarry... hotend Latest tests with ABS areby zemciko - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Chce si to pohrát s instalaci toho sw pro arduino, některé verze na některých verzích ubuntu měly podobné problémy. Taky je třeba mít nainstalované všechny potřebné knihovny atd. Ale jak říkam 11kové ubuntu s default verzí arduina mi kompiluje bez problémů. Taky je třeba správně nastavit v menu HW a port.by zemciko - Elektronika
Na nahrávání FW jsem použil netbook s ubuntu 11.10 a později 12.04 (s xfce unity je děs) soft pro arduino je přímo v balíčcích takže stačí pak nahrát FW pro arduino a upravit některé proměnné. Odkazy jsou k nalezení na reprap.org u ramps 1.2 atd. používám verzi sprinter , respektive novější mix od marlina. Je to docela slušně komentované takže po krátkém prostudování to člověk v poho nastaví.by zemciko - Elektronika
It is possible but result is not ideal. If u try it, then always use cooling fan and print multiple copies (both realy helps).by zemciko - General Mendel Topics
Here it is. slic3r.ini gcode STL Btw i have alredy printed nearly perfect result by decreasing number of perimeter loops to 1. With 0,25mm step is result realy amusing. We have new profi fdm printer in work and this looks like same quality! first attempts (dark color indicates problematic place, violet part is broken original) final print with nearly perfect result.by zemciko - Skeinforge
Printing smaler parts for molds for casted parts sound brilliant for me.by zemciko - General New Machines Topics
That was first i have tried and it does not work... (kisslicer can slice it "normally") Would be nice to have algorythm which will do: 1. decrease automatically width to complete inside loop or 2. use 1 loop instead trying insert two partially or 3. do not try to add 2nd loop if it cannot by added fully and insert infill insteadby zemciko - Skeinforge
Hi im printing 3d object looking like small cup. Im trying several slicers (skeinforge, slic3r, kisslicer) wit some weird results on skeinforge. Results on slicer looks nearly similar. Best result is with kisslicer, but there is another problem wit spliting surface to 2 semicircles with wisible seam. This can by prevented by setting all "Extra shells" to 0. Looks like problem is with shellby zemciko - Skeinforge
If its the only problem, then just lower layer height.... Skeinforge slicer isnt too great with thin walls anyway :0( I myself have another problem with 1-1.2mm wall and 1/2 of inside tracks are weird, coused bad quality result...by zemciko - Skeinforge
U can split big parts into smaller and print them on multiple repraps. Then mount them together with threaded rods and nuts. Another way is using 3d printer printing geopolymers for bigger parts and combine them with repraped parts.by zemciko - General New Machines Topics
Can be mechanical problem if FW acceleration do not help try: 1. is something blocking linear bearings (fergotten washer in my issue) 2. sliping geared wheel on motor 3. deformed or badly positioned linear rods. 4. something colide with one axix (pop sound) it happens once to me when one too long bolt uner bed colided with m8 theraded rod...by zemciko - General Mendel Topics
1. what speed u use ? It looks for me like bad calibrated extruder (too much material) + low speed, whatabout temperature on first layer and on 10th layer? 2. something prevemts moving your axis. Could be anything. My five isssues during first mendel were: 1. too low power into stepper motors (1/3-1/2 on trimmer) 2. something is blocking linear bearings (washer) 3. sliping wheel on motorby zemciko - General Mendel Topics
udimension profi printers uses sensor, measuring inserted plastic table and then correcting raft. Btw. if u do not need to correct z axis position, only make table horizontal, u need just 2 positioning points (servos etc). And i would move them to the edge of table.by zemciko - General Mendel Topics
As mentioned before. Screw offers much lower speed. Only advantage is that they are less "elastic". Theoretisaly u can get better acuracy in corners but belt is accurate enough. For example im using t2,5 belt and 14z Al wheel. 14x2,5=35mm on 16x200=3200steppes => 0.01mm per step (more then enough for me). Stepper motors have less torque on higher frequency. Mine motors goes significantly downby zemciko - General Mendel Topics
Pokud máš problém s elektronikou tak doporučuju koupit nějakou hotovou spájenou, za ty nervy při pájení ty peníze navíc nestojí :0) Aby sise vyhnul clu, kupuj z EU. Osobně jsem nakupoval z grrf.de a xyzprinters.com, ale já to pájel sám. Jo a počítej s tím že je lepší koupit vše u někoho naráz. Na západ od našich hranic nás pořád mají za opice na stromech a ak je k nám dražší doprava... (rovnou mby zemciko - FAQ & HOW-TO a odkazy
A v GME.cz ges.cz případně na farnell.cz to nemají? konektory adráty a elektroniku obvykle sháním tam.by zemciko - Elektronika
Main problem with bed positioning is 4 point bed leveling. Becouse for plane u need 3 point and bed is overconstrained... Btw. spring type of bed leveling is better for me. Personally i use much stronger ones. It prevents head/bed colision danger + u can set bed plane +-1mm. Only problem for me should be overhanging of bolts to print area.by zemciko - General Mendel Topics
> Extrusion multiplier is not at all dependent on > the hot end. Slic3r uses a volumetric calculation > based on filament diameter. It will extrude the > correct amount of plastic regardless of hot end > nozzle diameter, assuming that the extruder steps > per mm is correct. Basically, if you tell your > machine to extrude 10mm of plastic, 10mm of > filament should be drby zemciko - General Mendel Topics
I have ptfe support block on my geared end which can work as cleaning element. Another way is inserting cloth piece into support part of printer (smaal roof on pictures). Annyway i have never noticed any problem with dust on material. (maybe im lucky) The only real problem was with inpurities inside material or after changing ABS->PLA->ABS, which leads to production of "dirty pieces" insidby zemciko - General Mendel Topics
Newperfection. Interesting, but i have changed firmware several times on 2 repraps and using same numbers (steppes per mm) leads to change in extruded material on slic3r (maybe its slicer problem).....Plus extruder multiplier depends on your hotend which is different for every printer. And if someone starts than i recomemned standard/lower speeds not maximum ones.by zemciko - General Mendel Topics
Can u make better photos of printed subject? I cannot see enything. From ini file i can see at last several things: 1. very high speed, try lower numbers like 30mm/s for infill and 24 for skin. 2. u can try playing with extrusion multilier, 1 is unusual (i heve for example 5,8 but its printer dependant) 3. u can try hiher temperatures. Start from 190, then 195 then 200 etc. and compare results 4.by zemciko - General Mendel Topics
I have just completed page vith my material spool holder. Works fine with mendel/prusa/my sinuhed reprap. Spool holder Any comments or sugestions are welcome- zemciko@email.czby zemciko - General Mendel Topics
New version of my hotend is added to reprap database. Now its v 2.5. Rebuilded heater element. 1. 2x heater resistor 6R8 instead 1 piece (warm up 4x faster and temperature is more stable even with fan on) 2. bigger cooling copper ring + fan on printhead. 3. now it can be very simple and fast mounted and dismounted w/o risking electronic parts...by zemciko - Plastic Extruder Working Group