As i say before, selecting "reclinear grid" or "pillars" makes no defference from "reclinear", raft layers are always in same direction... :0( Only if i select 3 or more "pattern layers" i can see som crosslines on "patern raft layers", but interface layers are always in same direction and if i select less layers , for example 1 massive grid on table with 2,5mm spacing and then 1 interfece layerby oz - Slic3r
Is there any chance to make raft line 90 degree crossing previous raft layer. Just now im testing version 1.2.9. I can set raft linear, reclinear, honeycomb or pillar, but there is no difference, except honeycomb, which sets at last 2nd layer from 3 in different direction. I have overwrited previous version folder, could it be that problem, or there is just not crossing pattern raft?by oz - Slic3r
No celkem jednoduchý způsob jak vyzkoušet extruder je ho zahřát a zkoušet protlačovat materiál ručně. PLA potřebuje nižší teplotu než ABS. Neměl by být problém ho po zahřátí trysky na 200°C protlačit ručně. Nevím z čeho je teda struna na sekačku ale necpal bych ji tam. Nejhorší co můžeš udělat, je "zasrat" si trysku jiným materiálem. Dporučuju na začátek použít repsnapper v kombinaci se sprinterby oz - Obecné
Added new version 2.4. http://www.reprap.org/wiki/ZemcikO_hot_end Version 2.3 works great on clasic type Mendel. V 2.4 is designed for "prusa" carriage. Another improvement is mechanical clamp for resistor and thermistor and increased distance between printed piece and heater. Double copper cooler (instead single cup) is recomemned. Complete documentation (2D and 3D) is included.by oz - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Pokud by byl někdo z Brna, nejlépe z okolí krpole (strojárna VUT) tak mám jeden reprap funkční. Nicméně teď tisknu hlavně svoje pokusy případně díly na další vlastní verzi. Od Mendela (klasického ne zjednodušená verze od průši). Jsem si dělal i všechny výkresy (a že jich bylo). Ke stavbě samotné (hlavně k montáži je na stránkách reprapu podrobný návod). Stalk: mohl, ale bez vyhřívaného lůžka steby oz - Obecné
Dávejte sem pls. všechny odkazy na české stránky, fóra atd zabývající se problematikou REPRAP tiskárny. CNC fórum http://www.c-n-c.cz/viewforum.php?f=81&start=0by oz - FAQ & HOW-TO a odkazy
Hi everybody. After many weeks i have finally build extruder which i wanted from start. Its cheap, can be simply dissassembled, nozle replaced with different diameter, or when i change material, fits fine on my mendel and printing results are clean. (right now im using 0,35mm nozzle) (Takes 6 variations to get this one :0)) And of course i wanna share my results and 3d/2d drawings with comunitby oz - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Im using rough white paper tape for printing. It does not stick well. It Needs about 265°C for abs to stick. What can i do, when i do not have heated bed?by oz - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I have used same design and have same problem with M4 hobbed bolt. So i changed M4 to M10 and it helped.by oz - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Madbull: G/M kódy nebo taky ISO kód je "programovací jazyk", vyvinutý původně na MIT na konci šedesátých let a normalizovaný na začátku osmdesátých (existuje americká i evropská norma), pro řízení CNC strojů. Není to nic složitého. Jednotlivé bloky s příkazy obsahují číslo bloku , G nebo M kód, říkající co má stroj dělat a argumenty k těmto kódům (a na konci symbol pro konec bloku ale ten se nezby oz - Obecné
Madbull: Záleží dost na tom kolik tomu chceš věnovat času a jak moc hodláš/stavět vyvíjet sám. Pokud koupíš díly po internetu hotové, tak tě levnější varianta přijde na zhruba těch 15 000. Pokud si ty díly vyrobíš sám a objednáš jen nezbytné, tak levněji. Osobně jsem zvolil druhou variantu a po kouskách to dával dohromady. Mimojiné taky proto abych věděl o tom zařízení co nejvíce. Momentálně jsby oz - Obecné
Repsnapper v2 from https://github.com/timschmidt/repsnapper i think its latest version. My FW is sprinter version. Tested changing pins before. D8, 9, 10 should be fine. Ill try to swap thermistor now (T0, T1). Looks realy dum from me, not to try it yet. Hope this is the problem...by oz - RAMPS Electronics
Hi i have ramps 1.2 with sprinter FW and repsnapper. (Latest build compiled in ubuntu 11.4). Everything looks fine except heating of extruder. After M104 od heat on button, extruder strats heating, completely ignoring preset values. M105 returns temperature fine. M104 S200 looks responding too. In Printer controls table (repsnapper) is preset value 25°C for extruder and bed and, even if i changeby oz - RAMPS Electronics
Hi i have ramps 1.2 with sprinter FW and repsnapper. (Latest build compiled in ubuntu 11.4). Everything looks fine except heating of extruder. After i switch power supply, extruder strats heating, completely ignoring preset values. M105 returns temperature fine. M104 S200 looks responding too. In Printer controls table is preset value 25°C for extruder and bed and, even if i change it, after fewby oz - RepSnapper
Ok pulsing seems ok now (with potentiometer set on "9:00"). All 3 axis moving smothly. Tough, homing do not work at all.... Using home button (or home all) just move axis like 1mm out of endstops (+ direction). Moving in "-" direction does notthing. Endstops looks ok, becouse if i insert something into them (0=close) i can move in negative direction without problem... Should i set "const boolby oz - RAMPS Electronics
My setting is not high. (+- 1/2 of range). But ill try lower current and maybe use bigger heatsinks. Second problem is ignoring of endstops. I have https://shop.grrf.de/opto-endstop-v21-rev1-3er-diykit-p-319.html?zenid=94419db6a29591617f0b0fc86239f734 Tried inverting optostops in FW, but repsnapper just ignore it... Only one thing i have in sprinter firmware changed is configuration.h (pins.hby oz - RAMPS Electronics
Looks like i have same problem. Is it possible, that crassh of some axis induce overheating and then pulsing? Because my pololus are not on maximum setting and i use small (6*5mm) heatsinks + fan....by oz - RAMPS Electronics
Hi. I have nearly completed my reprap mendel. Decided to use ramps electronic and buy one together with arduino mega 2560 and opto endstops 2.1 rev1 (it uses negative logic, 1= open 0= close). Now i have soldered (soldered it myself and tested it for shortcuts) electronic and testing functionality. Only one FW which looks somewhat functional is "preconfigured" tonokip tesla or last kliment versiby oz - RAMPS Electronics
Hi, im new here and before i start producing some plastic parts for my reprap i would like to be shure in few things. Most of them is similar with this thread. 1. I have downloaded .stl and .sldprt models of standard mendel and prusa version. Because im mechanical engineer, i want produce some part by machining. 2. My next step was making technical drawings from models. And there is what make meby oz - Reprappers