Quotecozmicray ............................................................................................ ............................................ Right your getting so much feedback --- I won't comment anymore!!! You won't comment anymore!!! ever??? Does this mean that I will be denied forever the challenge of trying to make sense of your random stream of consciousness utterances. Miby leadinglights - General
@VDX At the moment I am looking only at the use of a mechanical stylus to send pulses to the jam detect input of a RAMPS board using Repetier firmware. The problem I envisage is that the indentations on the filament are not likely to give a very clean signal so will need cleaning up before being sent to the RAMPS board. Because of the wide range of feed speeds and hence signal frequencies the cleby leadinglights - General
@cosmicray, O.K., I guess that I have to draw a picture. At no point did I say that the feed had not been commanded. "the FAILURE" mentioned is shown on the picture below - not unique to myself as I have seen pictures of this on this very forum. The proximal cause of this failure is usually a blocked hot end but could be others. The lower part of the green line shows where the filament went oby leadinglights - General
Quotecozmicray WHY? What will happen when a filament advance failure? Will you be matching measured filament movement with commanded movement. Will you account for retraction? and recovery after retraction. A failure of filament advance: ---- pause print ----- run full diagnostic routine on extruder flash LED sound buzzer ---- move ruined print off bed --- restart prby leadinglights - General
Hmm, maybe I should have had the subject as "Filament feed failure detector idea" as the visual indication of a failure is not always useful - stopping the system or pausing while raising an alarm would be much better. To detect that the filament is not feeding right should be done after the feed mechanism (gear) as methods that look at the filament before this will miss filament finding anotherby leadinglights - General
I have seen some discussion on a number of threads lately about filament feed sensors. I was wondering if this idea is new. The thought is that the drive gear leaves an impression on the filament. If this could be used to generate pulses by tracking the indented surface with a stylus, the rate of pulses could be used to indicate correct feed or flag up a fault. If this idea is not new, can anby leadinglights - General
Hi Jarl, I have to admit that I haven't looked any further for other sources of piezo disks as I have been doing a complete rebuild of one of my printers. At the moment I am somewhat happier with the no-name disks but I realize that this means that each batch may be differently specified or even from a different maker. The rebuild of the present printer did show up another downside: The space tby leadinglights - General
I do remember seeing 300mm of cork being used under a laser setup to measure something called "Mossbauer effect" which probably means that it is good for anything. The adjusters are not on levers, just a parallel mechanism to avoid introducing any additional compliance into the system. Piezo disk not marked but under the pressure pad. Mikeby leadinglights - General
I am not sure if this will help for your printer but the picture below shows what I use for supports and adjusters. At three points are the adjusters - not too different from in your diagram, but at the other three points are 6mm diameter stainless steel posts which are a close sliding fit to 3mm thick PTFE plates to take out any side loads. This design started as a quick kludge to overcome thby leadinglights - General
I received a tube of "Black Witch" neoprene contact cement and have tried it on GT2 belt for a back to back bond. The first trials were not very promising but with a bit of trial and error I believe that the bond is now as strong as the belt. The necessary step was to scrupulously clean the belt as it seems to have a waxy substance as part of the make up of the neoprene. Simple abrasion didn't mby leadinglights - General
My own personal take on elegance is that the best possible compromise is the most elegant while never compromising is both expensive and ugly. @DjDemonD, Having a closed belt with a carriage attached creates two possible points of failure at each end of the carriage mount. As the same two points exist why not use the space between for a tension adjuster? As far as the toothed idler goes, the porby leadinglights - General
QuoteKoko76 Check Loctite's website. They have several CA formulas optimized specifically for rubber, higher peel strength and higher flexibility. They work OK. After lots of browsing, Loctite 480 looks promising although at from £12 to £35 for a small bottle perhaps a little pricey. Mikeby leadinglights - General
Edit, Hi DD, just saw your edit. I did notice your joiner when I was searching for ideas but one of the reasons I don't want a twist is that I have run out of space for anything much more than a very compact join to pass the carriage. The printer that I am rebuilding had interdigitated teeth of T2.5 belt and it never gave any problems. If the glue that I settle on is stronger than the belt thougby leadinglights - General
I have frequently used cyanoacrylate glues to bond neoprene O rings including ones that are used as drive belts - one on a tumbler is still O.K. after about 10 years. In the case of GT2 though, I don't think it will work as there is something more than neoprene - I think that it may be a matrix of neoprene, a plasticiser and a lubricant. I reached out to a contact who told me that the best bet isby leadinglights - General
QuoteDjDemonD Why not just use a toothed idler? Although the belt would always be with the teeth on the inside, I haven't come up with as good a layout for the adjuster. Making such an idler also has its challenges. Mikeby leadinglights - General
The printed part would just be extra mass. My first try after finding that superglue didn't work was to make a machined part and fold it over the belts but it is obviously too heavy. Photo above shows the adjuster parts as well as the try at a joining piece. The wiggly line is cut with a repurposed PCB engraving tool cut short to give the trapezoidal profile. Mikeby leadinglights - General
It's not for a closed belt, I normally use a twist in my belts but want to try an idea for avoiding this. As GT2 belt has a rounded profile it really needs either to go over a profiled pulley or round an idler on its back. The GT2 to metal is so that I can adjust the belt tension in less than 2mm steps although I will probably go with machined parts instead as I am getting short of willge rooby leadinglights - General
Has anybody tried to bond GT2 belts? I want to bond two lengths of GT2 belt together and also bond some very short lengths to some aluminium. As the GT2 is supposedly made of neoprene it should bond very well with standard superglue but the bond is very weak. Guessing that there may be some surface treatment on the belt I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and abraded the surface but still no luckby leadinglights - General
Of course, here in the U.K. knives are also forbidden with very heavy penalties for carrying them. This is strange as in my youth all young boys had pen knives and nobody got stabbed with them - admittedly they were often used to sharpen sticks into spears which were used to stab people. Mikeby leadinglights - General
The Kludge* has a long and honorable tradition in engineering, sometimes working astonishingly well. The downside is that nobody pats you on the back when it works and everybody mocks you when it doesn't. Mike * Correctly the Kluge, named after a German engineer - Norbert Kluge 1860 -1887 who died at the hands of his brother Hans who stole all his best ideas.by leadinglights - General
Now entering the realm of mythology, the "Manchester 3D Printed Gun ". For those who know nothing about this thread, the gun was nothing but 3D printer parts which looked gun-ish to uneducated members of constabulary. Another 10 years it will be accepted as true history. Mikeby leadinglights - General
Although the Creative Commons - Non Commercial license has little enforcability there are good pragmatic reasons for crediting the designers of the P3Steel and pointing to any Reprap.org, Thingiverse, Github etc. sources:- From a selling point of view, telling your customers where to get the drawings and files for the printer will allow them to make replacement parts should you not be in a positby leadinglights - General
I have been continuing to make progress with the piezoelectric disc sensors. On the first printer, a Cartesian Prusa Mendel type, bed leveling with the Piezos now works reliably and is very accurate. An early problem was that a G32 to probe the bed needs to be preceded by a G0 instruction to move to the first probing position as the deceleration from a normal move causes false triggering - movesby leadinglights - General
Is this a contest for the shortest and most ambiguous reply Mike QuoteyoUmake-3d Dental Flossby leadinglights - General
I tried this with a vibrator motor such as is used on mobile phones and pagers. Although I settled on pursuing a piezoelectric pressure detecting method, the vibration transmission method looked well worth trying. What I did find is that there were "blind spots" on the build plate where detection was poor - this may be avoided by careful positioning of the sensor and getting the frequency right.by leadinglights - General
QuoteTreito I am using dc42 mini height sensor board with PrintBite. Works as good as a direct contact switch. I have one of dc42s sensors and I am delighted with it, but the Piezoelectric sensor is user transparent, it corrects for changed nozzles and beds without having to have a fudge factor entered. The Piezoelectric sensors also have no X or Y offset. Mike. p.s., as an afterthought, had Prby leadinglights - General
I am about to try PrintBite on two of my printers but Anna & Karl's question about sensors made me think: Is PrintBite O.K. with brief contact with a hot end? The reason I ask is that I am using a piezoelectric sensor for bed leveling and Z contact detect Contact force is less than 100 grams and duration is less than 20ms. With the hot end at 260°C and the bed at 115°C there is no visible tby leadinglights - General
This 5V one is only about 9mm by 4,5mm by 3,5mm There used to be smaller ones in metal cans about 5mm dia by 4mm high but I haven't seen them around for many years. Mikeby leadinglights - General
I just worked out the geometric error resulting from a "walk" of 6mm total for a simple Cartesian case - Prusa Mendel type printer. The maximum error that I got was about ±22 microns - just under 0.001" I would show my working out but would probably be taken to task for perpetrating a "long dissertation, thesis, monograph, opus, oeuvre, study, critique" with the added offence of using Pythagorasby leadinglights - General
I have had no trouble from electrical noise. I think that neither side of the piezo should connect to ground - at least in my published amplifier. If the disk is being mounted on a metal substrate then a thin sheet of insulating material such as Kapton should be good enough. Please let me know how you get on. Mikeby leadinglights - General