Hi Frantz, The wiring colors don't matter as much as the order they are in. By this I mean left to right on your circuit board matches left to right on your stepper motors. My motors came with 6 wires and the 2 outer wires on either side were switched on the small wiring harness they came with. I only use the four inner wires. We will call these left to right, 1, 2, 3, 4. These connect in thby gregted - Reprappers
Hi AJ, The numbers I mentioned are in Sprinter.pde. I have included a pic of my sprinter settings but these may be different to yours. Your measurement of the filament going in to the extruder is correct not the extruded material. Your melted filament will be more due to the size of your tip. My filament going in is 3mm and my tip is 0.5mm so the amount extruded is 6 times the amount going inby gregted - Reprappers
Hi Rotinaj13 and welcome, A few points straight up. The numbers on Pronterface do have an effect on print quality but more so the settings you define in Arduino and send to your cpu on your printer. In particular your settings for x, y, z and e. Standard settings on mine were 80, 80, 3000 and 900 My new settings are 65.05, 66, 2540 and 800. These of course differ or each printer and stepper cby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks Remondo, I have tried something similar but only with one texta but didn't like the result. It was pink instead of red and the color faded into the next and I couldn't really be sure when the color change would feed through my extruder. With my method, the color change is instant and definite if a bit more labour intensive.by gregted - Reprappers
Hey Rich, Welcome and good luck.by gregted - Reprappers
This from the wiki site in my last post... Powering Sanguinololu Your chosen power solution will determine what kind of power requirements will be in play: Screw terminal: Connect your power supply with at least 7V and at most 30V to the screw terminal. The negative lead is the one closest to the screw hole. ATX Power Connector: Connect the ATX-4 pin connector. The ATX power supply must alsoby gregted - Reprappers
I know this is frustrating for you Frantz, but the trouble will be worth it when you see your first print. My whole family gathered round as " Woody " printed his first VERY shoddy gear but we it still holds pride of place on the shelf. We don't mind helping, so don't think you are wasting our time. We may learn something we can use later ourselves and this becomes a vendetta for us against theby gregted - Reprappers
Andrew my have hit on another thing I had forgot. When I first set up my printer I got nothing from my motors until I connected my end stops. Make sure these are connected, plugged in correctly and test the micro switches manually to see if they click. One of mine was faulty right out of the box.by gregted - Reprappers
Here is my method for multi colored prints. Start print as normal. When you are ready to change colors, pause print, raise Z up 10mm, place sheet of paper under hot end to collect extruded waste. Change filament without moving extruder carriage. Keep clicking extrude 5mm until the color change is complete. Only about 20 mm with my hot end. Move z back down 10mm and continue print. Not veryby gregted - Reprappers
Hi Frantz, The baud rate in configuration h was one I missed. Good work. You are right about the max temp. The numbers mean nothing while there is no hotend or bed connected. The reason you got the max temp alarm was because the thermistor sensor on the electronics board was getting no feedback from the thermistor so could not set temp. This will have to be reset before you fire up the hotendby gregted - Reprappers
Hi Frantz, I am not up with Mac so others might have to help there. All I can do for you is tell you what worked for me. In windows you need to check start, control panel, system, hardware, device manager, universal serial bus controllers. With the usb to printer cable disconnected, watch the list of universal serial bus controllers and then plug in your printer. When you plug in your printerby gregted - Reprappers
I have printed one of the z stop adjusters and will test it and then post on thingiverse. It is the only reason I am still printing. I came that close to giving up on this technology as I couldn't get the filament to stick no matter what I did. Now I know from experience what to look for and adjust the end stop for a perfect first layer then walk away. If the perimeter bead doesn't stick, pauby gregted - Reprappers
Thomas, I spray my stainless bars very lightly with a small olive oil cooking spray bottle every now and then and check movement with motors off every couple of days. I have found the stepping of layers when the belts stretch and come loose. Also had a problem with the x belt rubbing against the fender washer on my idler end and binding.by gregted - Reprappers
Hey Frantz Check the USB com port at the top center of pronterface and try different com ports then try to connect again. Pronterface doesn't always choose the port your computer is plugged into correctly. I connected another computer last night to my printer and pronterface was trying to connect to com1 when my printer was plugged into com 5. When I changed this, it connected straight away.by gregted - Reprappers
I am trying to modify the guilder for Prusa and can't get it to print after modifying it in sketchup. I send the moded file to netfab and download the fixed file but it doesn't show up on the build screen in pronterface as a picture and when I try to print anyway, it hangs my computer. Task manager shows 100% CPU usage. This also happens with some files from wiki in particular the x motor andby gregted - Reprappers
I also use a 3mm bolt but still have a problem with the hinge breaking. I will try to modify the stl but in the meantime I have designed a filament guide to glue onto the standard hinge that seems to print out ok and is stronger. This is on thingiverse. If the hinge printed on its side, the hinge would be a continuous bead around the hole but all the support would be a pain to clean up, stillby gregted - Reprappers
Hi Frantz, Great to see another new reprapper joining the clan. As Andrew said we need some more information to be able to help. Here is a great place to start if you haven't done so already... I am using the following setup so you may be able to use this as a step by step as to what we need. Sanguinololu 1.3 electronics board assembled and shipped with sprinter and bootloader installed anby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks Gary, Don't know why I didn't think of that... Dohby gregted - Reprappers
I agree with the suggestion of belt tension. I was having problems with my prints printing the first layer ok then stepping up to 5 mm before the next layer. What frustrated me was that the rest of the print would turn out great. Turns out the X belt was binding on the fender washer at the idler end and the Y belt was loose. Fixed these up and it prints great. I have to have my hotend at 200by gregted - General
Getting some glow in the dark filament soon and was wondering if anyone has a video of someone printing with this?by gregted - Reprappers
I had the same problem on my x axis and by mistake found it was exactly as Nophead suggested. My guide bearing was slightly off center and allowed my belt to bind against the fender washer. I fitted another bolt beside the guide bearing and wrapped some insulation tape at the right point on the bolt to hold the belt off the fender washer. As to the other issue you mentioned regarding the tableby gregted - Reprappers
I just used 10mm ply for my bottom and top plate with cutouts in the top plate for the wires from my heated bed and thermistor. I held these off with a screw head bolt recessed through the top ply, then nut under the top plate, then small spring, bottom plate and lock nut under the bottom plate. The spring between the top and bottom plate has saved my setup a few times when the z stop micro swiby gregted - Reprappers
I want to slightly modify gregs accessible extruder to add a thicker hinge joint and was wondering if anyone has a link to a skp file.by gregted - Reprappers
Good luck on your journey. I have only been printing on mine for a few weeks and am still learning heaps. Hope it works out and if you need any help, feel free to ask.by gregted - Reprappers
Look very similar to mine and should be ok. That price is good. You will only need the 4 inner wires so cut off the 2 outer wires altogether when you connect your extension wires to your electronics.by gregted - Reprappers
I am getting some webbing on my prints and was wondering how to avoid this. I am using sli3er and pronterface on a reprap mendel.by gregted - Reprappers
Thanks Nelson, Netfab fixed them right up. You might be able to help me with another small problem I am having with my prints. The quality is great but there is sometimes some webbing on certain parts of my prints that needs cleaning up afterwards. This doesn't take long and leaves a smooth surface when cleaned up but I was wondering if this can be avoided. I am using sli3er and pronterfaceby gregted - Reprappers
Hey conscripted, I did get my printer "Woody" running but I decided to chicken out from using the cutting board extruder at the end because I really wanted to see it running with the other wooden bits I made and it runs great. I will include some pics of the quality of the prints I am getting. It works so well that I got the proper t2.5 gears and belts in the mail instead of Woodys' t5 belts aby gregted - Reprappers
I am trying to print the parts for a mendel and am getting error codes as follows. plate function activated Not an ascii stl solid - attempting to parse as binary [29, 37, 300] wrote tempstl/4978.stl plated: tempstl/4978.stl Slicing tempstl/4978.stl Slicing: Slic3r/slic3r.exe $s --load Slic3r/config.ini --output $o => Processing input file tempstl/4978.stl => Processing triangulated meshby gregted - Reprappers
Thanks Pointedstick, I have fitted a small heatsink and fan to my extruder motor and this has helped. The type of fan is off an old cpu and the holes match my steppers nearly exactly so with a small flogging out of one hole, I could reuse the original holes through my steppers to mount the fan and heatsink.by gregted - Reprappers