Ages ago i drilled my own nozzle, was not sure what size it was, i just did a whole bunch of test prints with infill to determine the correct or best size, in the end it worked out well.by nechaus - General
you can make ur own hobbed bolts...print out a jig and you can make some pretty decent ones, it will take a fair few practice runs to get it right. The other day i was removing some carbon fibre from my electric bike, dremel worked wonders... Iv had a few rotary tools, the cheap ones brushes would always die quickly, but my dremel has lasted for agesby nechaus - General
place to buy power supplys, I run my printer on a 350 watt hk branded one I would personally prefer to use as much fanless stuff as I could...by nechaus - Reprappers
looking forward to updates!!! what about using nichrome wire? heaters, hair dryers, toasters.... it will last longer than the aluminium I believe... thinking if the aluminium is sealed well it should last a long time tooby nechaus - Developers
12 or 24 volts, none is really better... its what ever your system uses... I tend to always go with higher voltage, especially with my electric vehicles, but with these printers they don't use much power anyway, so 12 or 24.. does not matter.. I think 12 volt setup would be easier as most people run this voltage and id suspect there is more support for 12 volt repraps... who knows what issues yoby nechaus - Reprappers
looking good, id be happy with that speed, pretty much the same settings as my printer... but I print nylon much slower..by nechaus - Reprappers
I find that nylon must be dry to get any good results, and you have to pretty much dry it every day if your print with it everyday and leave the stuff out like me, here in Australia-QLD seems to be a lot of moisture in the air, wish I lived in a dry climate I would not waste the electricity/filament printing when it has not been dried, - it looks bad and is brittle as hell from poor bonding lby nechaus - Reprappers
but 20mm's a second is so slow, id be getting frustrated at that speed... most printers should be able to do atleast 40mm's on the infill , something is going on if you cant extrude faster and it looks like that Its early warning for me, if I cant extrude at 40mm's+ something is going on,, First things I check -Extruder, make sure its not slipping, I can hold the filament very tightly and my exby nechaus - General
bugger, I wont bother then, is there anything you could think of that might work? could i go crazy with cooling the heat sink and try 280c ? does the liner go all the way down?by nechaus - General
Haha your to right... oh man my budascnozzles peek is melting as we speak... think next nozzle with be e3d unless I get this bad boy working. I will report back when I try the alu hotend with out the linerby nechaus - General
hey guys, thought id post some pics of my aluhot end, Do you think its possible to just take out the ptfe line and crank up the heat to 290 and use it with nylon ? here are some pictures of itby nechaus - General
I have the 3.0mm version... if you can do that id be very greatfulby nechaus - General
iv been looking into that, I notice no issues with the print it self, no oil substance on the prints... my prints are very strong, I use PLA,, ABS, NYLON... sometimes if I dump a heap of oil in the Bowden tube, I get some brown crap on the print, but its gone by the next layer anyway... it seems to be rare for that to happen.. I use budaschnozzle and its very easy to clean as well, I have multby nechaus - Reprappers
Id be buying anoher hotend so you don't have further problems and time wasting man.. maybe look at other hotend designs if your in the market for a new one... I personally love the budashnozzle and the all metal hotends.. but its up to you, The aluhotend/magma hotend would fit right into ur x carriage no problems, its like a metal version, If you had the magma and you had the same issue, itby nechaus - Reprappers
its not just your infill, its your perimeters as well, nothing looks clean.. try a fan, see if that helps, if not,.... Try to extrude 100mm of filament, feel your extruder to see if its consistently extruding the plastic, I use to get these type of prints when I first got my printer, it was fixed by tightening the extruder pressure, also my hotend was a bit crap, basically it was not extruding.by nechaus - General
from my experience, I could be wrong, but it looks like your not extruding enough, Id be hand feeding it to see how hard it is to push filament through ur hotend, also try lower your layer height, it could also be incorrect steps...by nechaus - General
how do you think it would go converting my alu hotend to a all metal one? It does have a ptfe liner so if I took it out, there would be about 1mm gap... using a budaschnozzle atm, works very well... but I don't want to take it up to 300c... I got to about 240-260 at the very maxby nechaus - General
thanks, the magma hotend look just like my alu-hotendby nechaus - General
I just read that WD40 is the worst to use, I am now using regular cooking oilby nechaus - Reprappers
Thats a good idea! Ill do that and use that to apply the lubeby nechaus - Reprappers
Yesterday i was getting jams, i was getting all hot and sweaty trying to figure out the cause, looks like it was some junk in the hotend and a combination of the inner liner starting to break down and leaving crap in my hotend, cleaned it out out as best as i could, still was jamming, ended up using the WD40 prob the worst stuff to use but im hardly in the printer room when its printing, Workedby nechaus - Reprappers
i just use pens to color the white filament before it enters the machine, works very well, just not accurate, good for vase's and things like thatby nechaus - General
iv had a few weird things like this, try unplugging all connection and plugging them in, I found that vibrations from the machine would cause my connections to come loose. Might not be the issue tho,by nechaus - General
Is that part warped ? To me I got rid of most of that by doing this - retraction needs to be on and fine tuned to your setup - to hot, if the temp is to hot this can cause lots of ooze -reduce extrusion mutiplier maybe .90 keep going lower untill you have it set right. Do you have a fan blowing at ur prints ? If not try it out..by nechaus - General
i was using uhu, was working very well, not sure why i changed but have since changed to this product which smells nasty when you first spray it, works very well thoby nechaus - General
if you upload pics of your print, we can help better diagnose - strings i got a lot when i first got my printer, this was due to the hot end and extruder not pushing enough plastic out... check this out manually, Try and isolate your issueby nechaus - General
Some of the most efficient designs are actually incredibly slow in RPM.. using FFF may not be in issue if the design is for a slow rpmby nechaus - General
glad its running with very little problems, Looks like they are addressing issues with their new printers, If you feel like it, i would be interested in seeing your printer, if you could take some pics of your printer and prints. I just changed to the latest verson of slic3r and pronterface, pretty happy with the results.by nechaus - General
Yeah i have to change lining on the budaschnozzle from 3 to 1.75 or what ever I'm using, and should be possible to do on most hot endsby nechaus - General
All of my PLA filament is hard, i need to bend so many times to break it, I once had some glow in the dark PLA, it was totally different, It would simply break easy, for example, It would break by bending it once to far in my hand, It would break from the extruder pressure bolt, also from the bend in the bowden tube. Dropped the spool and ended up with an unusable spool as it had breaks throughby nechaus - General