I've had good results (so far) with 4042D natural PLA on dibond fr + 1mm aluminium + PET tape, and no heated bed. Wash down the tape with some alcohol, heat it a bit with a heat gun (hairdryer?), start the print with the head low to squish the filament a bit, then continue to heat sparingly during the first layer to make sure you get a good adhesion. I use this cheap PET tape: ( wider version avby Nudel - Reprappers
I really don't see the problem. It only takes me 5-10 seconds to scroll down the forum index and open tabs for the sub forums with new posts?by Nudel - Administration, Announcements, Policy
http://reprap.org/wiki/Lubrication seem to favour PTFE grease, like the brand "super lube". I've acquired a tube off ebay, but have yet to test it. From the bottom of that wiki page: "Silicone grease that is often used with RepRap is actually meant to be used with rubber gaskets, o-rings and similar equipment. It is not "bad" and some users report good results with it. There is also silicone greaby Nudel - General
Beautiful, just beautiful!by Nudel - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
1: 2: (one example) Automation would be great though. :-)by Nudel - General
Thanks Scorpia, good to hear. The "worse for wear" bit might have been my terrible packaging skills. At at job I had, I was banned from giftwrapping for customers, because of the look on their faces. Oh well, 5 sets sold so far, get them while they last.by Nudel - For Sale
For the x and y axis you'd only need knots for a portion of the length. I can't find it, but I recall a discussion about using plain rope. If the rope has enough texture or grip, it should be possible. Although, I'd be more concerned with the rope stretching, knots or not.by Nudel - General Mendel Topics
I like it, but wouldn't the need for the motor to always turn back and forth work against the (more or less) constant pressure needed for a steady extrusion flow? This could perhaps be countered in software to either wait for the motor, or run backwards between extruder stops or layers. Or in hardware by building a long "grip" area. But wouldn't it be difficult to lay down one long straight bitby Nudel - Mechanics
Like rhmorrison, I'd definitively go for the printed parts. Also, the build documentation and community knowledge of the printed Mendel is far superior.by Nudel - General Mendel Topics
Rhys: Wouldn't the objects come out slightly malformed this way? Imho, using a raft circumvents the problem in a better way, in the case where you can't make a level bed. RepRap_GCALman: From the top of my head: I'd love to control my RepRap(s) via LAN/ethernet. And more ways to detect a hardware or software malfunction and stop the printer automatically would also be a great addition.by Nudel - General
Try pressing the reset switch on the extruder controller, as well as the motherboard. The heater probably starts at 28C because that's the room temperature. :-)by Nudel - General
Just click the "Mark Forum Read" link on the top (or bottom) of the index pages when you've read what you wanted in the specific sub-forum. Takes a while to go through the whole forum the first time, but it's a good system. You need to be logged in for it to work.by Nudel - Administration, Announcements, Policy
1: From Build Envelope 200 mm (W) x 200 mm (D) x 140 mm (H) You can make it a little larger (or smaller) if you get creative with your endstops. 2: Why would it matter? Mine extrudes about 35mm on the non-opto side, a bit less on the other, but my bed might not have the standard size. 3: Depends on what extruder you use, and how you mount it.by Nudel - General
Camiel is a PLA-only guy. And there is no need for a heated bed when you use PLA, just use lightly sanded kapton and a hairdryer for the first layer, and clean the bed with some alcohol now and then. Using a heated bed to print ABS on a PLA Mendel would mean dangerous temperatures for the carriage anyway.by Nudel - Controllers
"Maybe spend a little less time on the professional photography and a little more time showing which wires actually go where." Thanks!by Nudel - Reprappers
If I understand it correctly, you only need temperature.h on the extruder controller, as it controls the temperature and sends the readings back to the mb. I had the same problem when I updated my firmware. I believe it must have been from me forgetting to save the correct file or something. I'm sure you did, but double check that you really have the proper temperature.h, and that it uploaded corby Nudel - General
I've had the same problem rocket_scientist, and have made a couple of bolts this week. With good help from #reprap this is how I do it: First I mount the bolt in the extruder and mark where to the cut. (I like to use the nuts on the gear side for easier disassembly).Then I secure the bolt in a power drill, with the head sticking out.Without the drill spinning, I file a V-shaped groove in the boby Nudel - General
I had the same problem, but solved it by pushing the m4 washers as far out as possible while centring the m8 washer.. A friend of mine got some m4 locking washers (the not-perfectly-flat type with dents in them) which was a lot smaller than the standard ones. Might be something to look out for.by Nudel - General Mendel Topics
I just put up a set of Mendel bearings on the norwegian auction site QXL here: qxl.no The set includes 50x624zz and 2x608zz. That makes it possible to assemble Adrians geared extruder. If you need the bearings for Wades extruder as well, I might add them for free if you ask me nicely. Sorry, I've run out of extra 608 bearings already. Ugly photo here: I have some sets to spare, and I'll sellby Nudel - For Sale
Hi Craig For the thick parts, I'd like to recommend the squashed froglet by nophead : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2107 I made mine from some acrylic I had lying around and it looks great, but is a bit on the wobbly side, so I'd take nopheads advice and make it in dibond. And the standard thin sheets do not fit the tech zone electronics, so you have to make your own. For the y axis I just moby Nudel - Reprappers
It's alive! With good help on IRC, I did the following: - Upgraded to latest (stable) firmware on the motherboard. - Made a new, fresh cable with a simpler connector to ensure good contact. - Turned the pot on the stepper down a bit. - Enabled "use incremental ecode (for seperate extruder conroller" in printer definition settings in RepSnapper. Now it's working as expected, and I just havby Nudel - Controllers
Caliber Mengsk Wrote: > O-o...... Ok... XD I just realized something... I > have no clue what software is needed to actually > be able to print a 3d object. O-o Do I just need > something like 3d studio max with a plugin? (I > have it from a student discount ^_^) Or is it some > kind of proprietary software specifically for this > kind of stuff? For the modeling itself you nby Nudel - General
http://reprap.org/wiki/StepperMotor#Holding_Torqueby Nudel - General
It's a great idea. Feel free to add to the list, that's the purpose of the wiki.by Nudel - General
I added a few words to the wiki glossary. But what's the purpose of the "#FdmTerm" tag above the words?by Nudel - General
You can get the Tech Zone Remix electronics from botmill.com And mendel-parts.com will soon have a new electronic set out. Or you can get the arduino set from ultimachine.com which requires some assembly. The extruder most people use is either or And this is a good nozzle build. You can use all the software with the different electronics, as far as I know. Some boards may require specificby Nudel - General Mendel Topics
Are other settings saved? Could it be you don't have proper permission to write to the config file?by Nudel - RepRap Host
Keep an eye (and thermometer) on the ICs on the extruder board that run the motor, they tend to get rather hot.by Nudel - Reprappers