Linear bearings are a must these days, in my opinion. I'll have to print out one of those x ends. thanks for testing! oh and i said this: Quotebuback but, as far as i recall, there isn't a clear cut distance for the sells or prusa x ends. by which i meant that the distance is ~30mm, but since it's openSCAD, the distance can change based around what parameters you choose. in other words, it'sby Buback - General Mendel Topics
That is a major issue with no clear answer. I made it 30mm because i plan on eventually using a vertical X axis as the standard for prism, and there is a working standard for that distance for vertical x axis designs. but, as far as i recall, there isn't a clear cut distance for the sells or prusa x ends. anyway, i have greg frost prusa x ends on my prism right now and they work ok. no problem wby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Not too low, if you want to be compatible with belt-driven z axis machines. Prusa machines probably have a lot of room down there, though.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
the camshaft is a cool idea, but i think the single nozzle will give you issues.by Buback - Reprappers
Would cat5 be suitable? I've seen this used on some repraps. also, the wiring in many printers that use steppers is pretty thin guage. cat5 would be nice for the extruder, since you could run the motor and thermistor/heater through one cable (crosstalk issues of course. would the twisted pair help at all?)by Buback - General
there are a couple issues with that approach (not insurmountable). First, the distance between the smooth/threaded rod is 30mm. If you change this, you can't use any of the existing (or future) x ends without modification. second, if you keep the distance 30mm, you have to move the position of the threaded rod as well. since the extrusion is 20mm itself, there's no way to fit a 608 bearing in,by Buback - General Mendel Topics
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Hah! This is reprap, after all :-)by Buback - Reprappers
ok then try teacup. or even a 5d from 2011. And don't use the reprap host. use literally anything else.by Buback - Reprappers
That looks to be ancient firmware. try marlin or sprinter, and i'm sure you'll have better luckby Buback - Reprappers
yeah i concur. There are special non-ferous metal blades that take smaller chips (think 'Hacksaw blade') but they are expensive. a regular carbide tipped blade works best. I tried a cut off wheel as well but i think it just melts and gums up the blade. it also makes superfine fibers that fly everywhere and are probably terrible for your lungs. lesson learned. It might be a good idea to put someby Buback - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Really all you need is one corner with the notch/chamfer. If you can get up one corner, the job becomes much easier. ----another idea For some bed surfaces the main sticking force is atmospheric pressure (van derwaals, right?). Potentially, a model only needs enough surface area to supply enough force to keep the part stuck during printing, which would be x% of an area. You could have the firstby Buback - Printing
You may have seen recently news about the Lytro camera. It's what they're calling a 'light field' camera (see their website for the technical details). Anyway, the images it produces allows you to select the focus after you take the photo. I think it's only a short step away from creating a point cloud. it might even create a point cloud in order to do the focusing. it's obvious (to me at leasby Buback - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
I know getting metric stuff can be a pain when you're in the US, but we really just need to let imperial die. The more metric we buy, the quicker manufactures will switch over their production lines. I think it's cheaper and easier to just go with metric parts to start with. With metric, you can be reasonably sure that if someone posts an upgrade on thingiverse or the wiki, you probably have comby Buback - General Mendel Topics
NCBob Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I also experimented with the HBP and found that if > it's cooled off and I cut it on after about 30 > seconds when it warms up a bit it will pop off > without to much trouble. Hmm that's an interesting idea. A heating/cooling cycle would make the HPB "ripple" as it expands and contracts. Maybe someone could prograby Buback - Printing
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've never understood how people get anything > between the bed and the part. I can't get even a > sharp knife in with out damaging the part or the > bed or both. Ah well i'm using blue tape on a unheated glass bed, so yes, it damages the (cheap) tape sometimes but not the part or the bed.by Buback - Printing
Metric fastener sizes M8 with across flats is 13mm (according to specs)by Buback - General Mendel Topics
The best thing I've found is a laboratory spatula, similar to this. The spoon side is usually thin at the edge (almost sharp), so you can get it under the edge first layer pretty easy and pry it up like the claw end of a hammer. Once the edge is up, i use the flat side to pry up the rest of the part. There are also spatulas with an angled side, which you might think would be better for prying,by Buback - Printing
again, no reason to go to NYC (which can be a real PITA to get in to). There are hakerspaces right in your backyard and if you ask i'm sure they'd give you a tour. there's also Penn state, if your driving to PA like you said. they have a very active User Group there.by Buback - General
Prism Mendel (Extruded aluminum sells mendel) Gen6 Wades jhead IV Lm8uu bearingsby Buback - General
Exactly. People can, and do, build non standard machines. Having a standard (or baseline, scientific control, benchmark, normalized, common, stock, whatever word you want to use) places no restrictions on those individuals that want to innovate. (I apologize if I'm harping on this, as it's a digression, but I would like to see a baseline established. if somebody doesn't agree with the choicesby Buback - Developers
still broken for me. using firefox Nightlyby Buback - General
Aren't you implicitly defining a standard? It is based on standard parts and it is all a defined algorithm in your OpenScad file. Others will need to refer to your .scad file in order to make alterations. (and it basically restricts designers to using openscad) even bespoke suits were based on standard styles, after all.by Buback - Developers
I think your mischaracterizing what we are talking about. We aren't trying to establish standards as a way to lock down the design. In fact I think it's the opposite, we need standards so that people can base their development on something. If you want to design a new x carriage (for more than just yourself) you need to know how far apart the x rods are, and where the belt runs, and where the endby Buback - Developers
There's also the RUG wiki page: And the RUG forum:by Buback - General
Here are two hackerspaces in your area. You'll probably want to check them out first, as I'm sure they're looking for members. - Wall Township - Highland Park If you can't get anybody else, i can try to make some time available.by Buback - General
Another discusion we've been having in the developers sub-forum is "What is the purpose of the reprap project now?" At the heart of the discussion is that there are now, and will continue to be, infinite minor variations coming from all corners. With the flood of new machine designs, what is the role of reprap.org? The consensus seems to be that reprap.org and it's members (us) should be settingby Buback - General
yeah I used the standard size belts, just because that's what i had on my sells. The Z belt could be shorter, but i don't know what size to recomend so i won't. I should have noted that i just screwed a bearing, with some fender washers, right onto one side of the profile to act as an idler. This makes the belt follow a mostly rectangular path (see the picture at the top of the wiki page showingby Buback - General Mendel Topics
@DeuxVis: Please also give some comments on if the build instructions work out for you {Or where they fail you} when you eventually get building. thanks!by Buback - General Mendel Topics
I think software and firmware are the largest issues. The slicing algorithm has to be very different. Also, parts won't have a consistent resolution. A "step" of the turntable is going to be different distances depending on how close to the perimeter the print head is.by Buback - General
you have no need to worry about the wear and lifetime of the belt, since we'll have moved on to something different or a different size by that time. with 608 bearings and fender washers you'll be fine. you'll be able to print no problem. If you find it rubs too much for your liking, you can away stack a second 608 to the nut, making it double wide.by Buback - General Mendel Topics