0,0 should be front left of the print bed I believe. You should be able to just reverse the direction in your firmware.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
I would just print some ASAP. You should be able to hold the X and Y in position for the homing then print them out, not ideal but they are pretty quick to print and nothing too fancy.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
I'm really interested in this. Its something I've been thinking about doing for a while, but never got around to it. I got a little lost in all the extras you could add to the setup, for some reason changed my mind and am contemplating just getting a 12v psu with 7805 for the RasPi.by JoeDaStudd - Controllers
1. Ask the this work, the irc channel or on a blog of someone who has build the printer your looking at. Some of the designs like the Prusa i3 are designed to be flexible on what parts can be used with parametric printed parts. 2. If you ask someone who has built the same model before they will be able to list the suppliers they used for you. Some people have accounts with stores, have local stoby JoeDaStudd - General
On the boards without the vref point it can be taken from the pot correct? You just answered this. Also is there an easy way to identify the Rs on the board? The information for the calculation seems pretty easy to get from the Allegro site which is nice. Thanks for your help and sorry if I'm asking a lot of questions. I want to do the whole 3d printer thing right this time, learning as much aboby JoeDaStudd - Controllers
Hi, I've just about finished my Prusa i3 build and the Z axis steppers seem to need a little more juice when they did in my Prusa i1. In the past I just slowly turned the pot until it no longer had issues then a little more for good luck, however I've seen a few posts and guides on using the vref to calculate a good starting point. The trouble is I'm running a few different drivers, I've got anby JoeDaStudd - Controllers
Make sure you use the github values for the Y axis otherwise your be scratching your head trying to work out why yours doesn't match the guides. It annoyed me a lot more then it shouldby JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
That's the Greg's extruder its got the hinge for the idler and is smaller then Wade's. You you checkout thingiverse there is a Herringbone gear version of Greg's which is meant to be an upgrade to the standard gears. Looks nicer, but its a trickier print.by JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
1. The files can be generated for different rod sizes. A lot of kits use the 8mm as its cheaper and its the same rod used for the older Prusa's. As for generating the files I presume you use OpenSCAD set your parameters then export to STL. 2. Greg's uses the same vitamins as Wade's only less of them. The original Wade's has 4 bolts (springs and washers) holding the idler, Greg's uses 2 (and one sby JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
It think it just joins one of the ground wires from the psu (the 12v and ground) to the pin when M80 is triggered and disconnects them when M81 is triggered. The 5v and VCC pins are for powering the servo pins (to the left) via the Arduino if you put a jumper between them. Only reason I can think the M81 would stop the 5v is if it was to prevent the Arduino powering the shield, which wouldn't maby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Have to changed the other settings to match your setup? Line 322 and 324 set the width and depth of the print area and line 400 sets the steps per mm for each axis. This calculator will help get the right values for your setup.by JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
Looking around that's about right for the i1/i2 (20x20x10) and the i3 does have more height (20x20x20). Of course it could be more or less depending on your setup and if you start to tweak things.by JoeDaStudd - General
I've got mine to the point of powering on and your list is a lot different what I just used. Were is the M10 theaded used?@ I just used M8 and M5 threaded. The LM8UU's should only be 10, 3 for Y, 3 for X and 4 for Z. I presume the 608ZZ are for the extruder, but a standard gregs only uses 3. I can't see why you'd need 4 endstops, one per axis (3 in total) and if you want to add auto leveling justby JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
OK I've got to this point in my build and it's definitely wrong on the wiki. Without you move the Y axis motor to the front there is no way you can get full print area on a standard heated bed (200x200) without you go completely off the guide(s). You loose about 5cm print area which is roughly the rod difference. As I mentioned if you have the motor at the front it should be fine, I think you migby JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
QuoteNewPerfection QuoteJoeDaStuddIf your doing down the Bowden extruder route1.75mm is the only real option, Why? The Ultimaker is Bowden and uses 3mm filament, and has arguably some of the best prints of any RepRap-based printer, with exception to individual machines of course. The Tantillus uses 3mm as well. I have built a 3mm Bowden machine with a 300mm x 300mm build area, and it works juby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
The software doesn't know where the head is until it homes, plus if its not been used for a while the endstop holders might be a little loose. If you don't have the original spec or firmware settings for the printer I would go though the belts, pulleys, z axis thread, stepper drivers. and steppers getting as much information as you can. Once know them wack the values into the calculator then theby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Small nozzle size means more detail and precision, but as you mentioned slower print time. If your doing down the Bowden extruder route1.75mm is the only real option, for direct drive its more down to personal preference. Depending on where you live it might come down to cost, in the UK 3mm is a lot cheaper then 1.75mm to buy so I've got no plans to change to 1.75mm any time soon.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
QuoteMattMoses QuoteJoeDaStudd Something like a to do page with a table; Page (link to page if its a current page), Type (electronics, printer, etc), Model (Prusa i3, RAMPS, Stepstick, etc), Work to be done, Importance The RepRap Bounty Tracker is ideal for something like this. It is one giant to-do list and right now it is empty. There is a whole subforum intended to help encourage research andby JoeDaStudd - General
QuoteEEstudent Thank you very much for the detailed answer! I am thinking to follow this tutorial: [78.47.92.212] what do you think?is it good enough? Regarding the printed parts kit, any kit from eBay would be fine? That guide is great I'm currently following it (just got to mount the Y axis to the frame, add the z thread and wire it up) as long as you have all the parts and tools ready its preby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Something like a to do page with a table; Page (link to page if its a current page), Type (electronics, printer, etc), Model (Prusa i3, RAMPS, Stepstick, etc), Work to be done, Importanceby JoeDaStudd - General
Any reason why your using nuts and washers in places of springs on the extruder idler? The springs give it a little wiggle room. Also did you nyloc or double nut your hobbed bolt (can't tell in the picture)? If not the bolt and gear won't move freely, it shouldn't cause this issue, but will put extra stress on the extruder stepper. You can see the double nut and springs on here. With your bolt yoby JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
Sounds great for making a shell if the melt temperature difference is enough allow filling with liquid chocolate during/after without ruining the walls.by JoeDaStudd - General
The official variants you see tend to be an accumulation of upgrades, updates and hacks. Its best seen with Prusa i1 vs i2, the design its pretty much the same just with better printed parts, bearings and other tweaks. You pretty much never see two identical RepRaps as every user wants slightly different things, spends different amounts or has different options available. Thats were a lot of theby JoeDaStudd - General
I've read through the thread and I love it. I was wondering if there was a picture or step by guide to setting this up. I would find it easier then the video posted or following purely text descriptions of the process.by JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
Double check you can use your UNO with any of the electronics shields, I think RAMPS is Mega only. On top of what KingRahl said you'll need glass for the printbed, crimps and housings for the wiring cable ties and Kapton tape (for the hotend and print bed)by JoeDaStudd - General Mendel Topics
I've not used a RAMBo board before, but a quick google says its the same as most. Download, extract and run the Arduino IDE. Download and extract the Marlin firmware. In the Arduino IDE set the board to Mega 2560 (RAMBo if you added it). Open the Configuration.h file in the firmware folder/location in the Arduino IDE and read through the file changing the settings to match your printer setup. Oncby JoeDaStudd - General
Did you have this issue before you adjusted the stepper drivers? I had something similar a while back and it was the belt slipping slightly. If you run a second print as soon as the first finishes (only removing the part) does it happen again? In my case I was resetting the belt prior to every print. It might also help if you post an image of one of the prints.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
This code should work. iirc you can just comment out each motor to test them independently and you can comment out the heater settings to stop it overloading the psu.by JoeDaStudd - General
Quotelandsharkxx I want to print aviation model, iPhone cases, and reprap parts. I want to try and make money from 3d printing so that I Atleast get a roi(return on investment) where I break even. Your jumping to different ends of the spectrum there. RepRap parts don't need anywhere near the resolution of an aviation model and an iPhone case you'd want to have smooth edges and surfaces. Personalby JoeDaStudd - General