If the printer is rigid enough you'll be fine. I just switched from Bowden to direct. I'm happy with the change back to direct drive. Bowden was fun, but prefer direct. Having 1.5mm vs 5mm retracts have seemed to make a good difference with zits. I used a pancake stepper with 18 ozin and a BMG Dual Drive Clone Extruder. (has a 3:1 gear reduction) Print speeds at 60mm/sec. All is good! Side Noteby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
I really like your belt tensioner setup. I'm stealing it. Thanks!by Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Nice! Thank you for sharing!by Mogal - General
Try two linear rails, and three lead screws. I currently have two screws and rails in the center of the bed(left and right sides) I find there is a small amount of wobble during the faster movement speeds. I'm going to relocate them to the front of the machine (but still on the left/right sides) and the third screw center in the back. Should be supper stable then.by Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Quoteleadinglights QuoteMogal .............. Oh, so what your saying is MORE steps per mm WILL NOT improve positional accuracy? ................. I have to agree with MKSA here: More steps will definitely not improve positional accuracy if the errors introduced exceed those already in the system. 3D printed gears are seldom of anywhere near the accuracy of machined gears. Backlash, even with theby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMKSA You don't increase "accuracy" by using any kind of reduction gear !!!! Fact is, you are more likely to decrease it because of the gear quality. And forget about printed gears, any kind of. Digital Dentist used worm gear in combination of belts to replace lead screws for Z. As for the statement above, using 2mm pitch and 0.9° motor, can you tell what layer height you use and what is theby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
I was looking for better Z accuracy as well. I decided to go with 8mm screws with 2mm lead (instead of the usual 8mm lead) then reduced that down 3:1 with a 0.9deg stepper. I looked into a couple different options with Z, but this just seemed to be the cheapest and easiest way to go. I couldn't be happier with the improved Z quality over my last printer. 0.3mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height.by Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Over all, I'd say your prints are very good. To improve them? Maybe the extrusion rate, temps, jerk and acceleration settings. There is a tiny bit of ringing, but it's small and might not be able to get rid of it all. As for what improved mine? Regidity. Losing the cantilevered bed design. Tweaking my feeds/speed, extrusion, jerk and excel settings. Making sure the frame is tight and square.by Mogal - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAmyTheBun also that wasn't very nice some of us just want a 3d printer that works. specially a lot of us don't have time or money to spend on a printer like this. you know how long it takes to try on a new carriage or y carriage! swapping it takes a day! Sorry, was just suppose to be a reality check... I didn't mean anything bad. As for time it takes.. uhm, yeah I know all too well how loby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAmyTheBun sadly as someone with a low budget experimenting is not an option for me. I am thinking of selling the hypercube and buying an artillery sidewinder instead So instead of tweaking the printer you already have, you'll just buy a new one? That's a GREAT budget strategy!! Good luck. DD posted some great info above. I recommend you re-read it, and go from there. If you plan to stayby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Are you sure 5v is enough voltage? Most are listed as 15-32v. So I have mine set up with the two power wires going directly to the PSU (24v) and the signal wire heading to the top pin of the connector I circled. Outside of that, not sure what could be going on. Faulty sensor maybe?by Mogal - Duet
Did you plug the signal line from the probe into the right port?by Mogal - Duet
Hard to tell. But I would say there is something loose and/or misaligned. As the carriage moves one way, the belt moves up, then reverses the opposite direction. Seems like the XY joiner is higher/lower then the stepper motors and XY idler. So as the XY joiner moves closer to the stepper, it forces the belt down. then as it moves away, creeps back up... Make sense? All the belts have to be on thby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
I really like DD mount that he made. Lots of rigidity there. But that wont directly plug in to the hypercube design. The one I posted looks like the motor actually rests on that inside wall. (ie: no deflection) Start looking through thingiverse (and others) for different designs. Lots out there. I was using 12mm rods for the z, 10mm for the Y and 8mm for the X. I'm using some off the shelf partby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Sry, but I never got around to making (or printing) better mounts. After I made the jacking bolts, The issue (for me) went away. But it was always on my todo list... Since I had the bearing/rod issue, I'm converting the entire machine to metal. (with the exception of the carriage - for now) and using MGN12 bearings and rails. I did a quick search for hypercube motor mounts and found this one thby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Fixing ANY miss-alignment will increase print quality and print efficiency. The original mounts are not very robust and offered a lot of flex. I was able to overcome it with the jacking blocks I made(Again, see that video I posted) That was my way of overcoming the issue until I was able to get a better mount for the motors.by Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Oh, and watch the belt around the pulleys. If there is any misalignment in the belts, you might see the belts flop back and forth on the pulley as it tried to climb up/down and off the pulley... - This mostly occurs on the stepper pulley as the mount is not ridged enough and causes a deflection in the belts. Mogal's Belt deflection on Hypercubeby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Maybe unrelated, but I had a similar issue. When I first got the printer working and tuned, it was producing amazing prints... I found my prints slowly degrading in quality... After watching the printer for awhile, I could see the print head 'Float' (I could actually see the print head wobble) as it was travelling back and forth... took a closer look at the bearings and rails to find that the beaby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
My guess: - Too hot (The 'x' looks pretty melted at the tips) - over extrusion (Little bit of blobbing going on) - bad (loose) bearing(s) (The different fluctuating thicknesses of each layer)by Mogal - CoreXY Machines
I just picked up some of these: Machifit MGN12H 250/300/500/550mm Linear Rail And 4 extra blocks: Machifit MGN12H Linear Rail Block First impressions are good! I cleaned them all up (De-greased/waxed them) and put some oil on them. Time will tell how good they really are. I would think they are better then the steel rods - definitely smoother then the rods I'm using now!by Mogal - General
Thanks DC42, I thought I had tried that as well, guess I didn't. It's working now, thanks!by Mogal - Duet
Thanks, I thought I had tried that as well... It's working now, thanks a bunch!!by Mogal - Duet
I have the exact same issue. My probe is working, but I need to invert the signal. I0 doesn't do anything. (Capital i and zero) Sending an M119 gives this: Endstops - X: not stopped, Y: not stopped, Z: at max stop, Z probe: at min stop Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet Firmware Electronics: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later Firmware Version: 2.03beta3 (2019-03-25b6) Wby Mogal - Duet
This doesn't work for me! Been fighting with this for many hours now ; Endstops M574 X1 Y2 S1 ; Set active high endstops ; Z-Probe M574 Z2 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe <-- tried I0 here too, didn't work M558 P5 H5 Z1 I0 F120 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to modulated and the dive height + speeds G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z4.2by Mogal - Duet
My build sports a cantilever bed, but with spectra line supports. I'm getting good prints, and had no issues with sagging, bouncing or Repeatability.by Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Well, I have the printer up and running. Works amazing! Accuracy is great! Only complaint with it so far is the E3D extruder keeps plugging up. About 4 times now, but it is easy to clear out. I do like that the print bed is a lot more stable with the sliding knot. BUT, going with the dual Z axis is still the way to go. I may upgrade in the future, but see no need to really. When the power is tby Mogal - CoreXY Machines
Uhmm... I actually found transfer speeds really quick. Just need the ramps to read the file after the transfer.by Mogal - RAMPS Electronics
Hello, I recently discovered this wonderful little SD card. Discovered them from Chris Riley through this vid: WiFi SD Card I can save my gcode files straight to the SD card through Wifi, BUT the Marlin firmware (1.1.9) wont read the card. (The card powers up, I can find and save files to the card so, "its working") Marlin detects that its inserted, but when I go to load the code from from theby Mogal - RAMPS Electronics