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Re: Non uniform extrusion - 11 years ago

I had a similar problem, and it was a stepper motor that was overheating. I now have a fan on my steppers, and that resolved the problem.

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: Z wobble something - 11 years ago

That is absolutely a possibility. I have used just about every strategy out there to eliminate it, but I have not replaced the z rods. Is there a really good source for 8mmx300mm threaded rods?

by chewbaccah - Printing

Z wobble something - 11 years ago

Everyone, A little help here. My Hadron Ord Bot is producing the dreaded z wobble, but it is not the standard wobble where everything shifts one way or another. Instead, I am getting an accordion effect, where the each layer is slightly wider or thinner around the entire outside and inside of the part. My gut here is that the z axis is moving at slightly different amounts per layer, but I can

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: can anyone explain the cause of this?? - 11 years ago

Verify your stepper driver for your extruder is not overheating.

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: I need help identifying the problems of my printer - 11 years ago

I use blue painters tape heated to 60C. At layer 5 or so, I reduce the heat to 45C. If the PLA is not sticking to my bed, the I raise the bed 1/8 turn on all screws until it sticks.

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: extruder jaming - 11 years ago

I have been having a problem that sounds similar to yours. The print would begin, but deteriorate. I also would get an abrupt grinding noise, and the filament would backup sharply. This caused voids in the print, assuming it would print at all. In my case the problem became progressively worse, and it had the appearance of bad filament causing jamming. The crazy thing was is I could still push

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: Filament stopper after 2 hour of printing - 11 years ago

If this is an all metal hot end, you may consider printing at a cooler temperature. I have heard of dipping the tip of the ABS in some peanut or canola oil before loading the filament into the extruder. This lubricates the inside of the hotend. Also, be careful when boring out the hotend with the drill as this can scratch the inside of the hotend, creating grooves where cooled filament can sti

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: Filament jams - Bulldog XL & E3D - 12 years ago

I had a similar issue with my bulldog when I first began working with it. I believe its was primarily an interface issue with the hot end. That, combined with retraction caused it to bind as you described. Ultimately, I bought another hot end.

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: gummy hotend - 12 years ago

I haven't had much success with slic3r. Its probably my fault, but I started with Cura, and it does great. I would recommend it to anyone. I would try slower still. I print between 5 and 40mm/sec.

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: gummy hotend - 12 years ago

Can you give us more information? Temperatures, print speed, etc.

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: ABS Printing no heat bed required - 12 years ago

Alright, I think I have enough information to give a full analysis. For the initial print, I can see that the adhesive on the tile would likely hold the part down properly. The adhesive however does release from the tile onto the part during removal, and what is left does not hold the part down. I don't think this is an effective long term solution. It was a great idea, but as far as I can se

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: ABS Printing no heat bed required - 12 years ago

Alright, more information: I removed the tile from the glass and flipped it over (adhesive is now up). Heat from the bed helped soften the tile, making it easier to level, and it seems to lay flatter now without adhering to the bed. It is quite sticky and the raft is sticking just fine to the cold bed. It is sticky enough that the part may not even need a raft, although I will need to confirm

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: ABS Printing no heat bed required - 12 years ago

To report back: I selected the smoothest vinyl tile I could find. It does have a texture, but no ridges as can be found with other vinyl floor tile designs. It cost $1.19 at the super mega home stuff store. I cut the tile to size. Originally, I thought I would try it without the vinyl adhered to the glass plate, but I soon discovered that the plate was very difficult to level due to undulatio

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: ABS Printing no heat bed required - 12 years ago

I think I may try this. I have a super mega home stuff store not far from my home and they cost less than a dollar. I will report back as soon as I have some experience with it.

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: First time 3D printer user... Struggling with ABS and starting layers - 12 years ago

I might recommend the following changes: Nozzle Temp - 240oc Bed Temp - 110oc Bed surface - Blue painters tape Material - 1.75mm ABS Feedrate - 15mm/s Rapid rate - 15mm/s Layer Height - 0.1mm See if this helps. Good luck!

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: ABS Printing no heat bed required - 12 years ago

Pictures please! This sounds very interesting

by chewbaccah - Printing

Re: Slic3r Help! - 12 years ago

I have been having the same issue with Slic3r regardless of the program I use to produce the STL (solidworks and blender). To work around it, I use Repetier to plate the object and then generate the g code (Repetier actually uses Slic3r to produce the g code).

by chewbaccah - Reprappers

Re: Shifting layers in Y axis horribly in week 3 - 12 years ago

Did you slightly increase the voltage on your Y stepper driver? Perhaps a small adjustment there would solve the problem entirely. Good luck.

by chewbaccah - Reprappers