I'm designing a corexy with a 300mm x 300mm printable area. I remembered I had a driver/motor package stashed away from a long time ago that I was going to use for a CNC router. I have 3x KL23H2100-35-4B motors, a Gecko G540, and a 48V power suppy sitting here doing nothing. It's been a lot of years since I bought this so I assume much has changed since these were new. Any forseeable issues usingby Ryan_M - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I'm working on a printer to print ABS. I am planning for a heated chamber and from what I've read I need ~50-60°C. Quality is more important than speed so I don't mind toting an exrtruder around on the X carriage but I'm concerned heat build-up in the stepper would be a problem. Currently on my existing printer I use a belt reduction NEMA 14 and it works great and only gets warm to the touch, howby Ryan_M - CoreXY Machines
No just the one side. AFAIK the center point is floating and one side is Vcc and the other is GND. I didn't have any luck trying to bridge the joints with just solder so I bridged it with very tiny wire and trimmed it after. I used some eye loupes I have for magnification so I could see what I was doing but one of those magnifying glasses with lighting would probably work well too.by Ryan_M - Printing
Just bridged the CFG 0,5,6 on my MKS units and it made a HUGE difference. Thanks a ton!by Ryan_M - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist I don't get it. Everyone knows you need a flat surface to print reliably, yet so many keep buying thin, flexible aluminum and then put glass on top of it. Why do people keep buying the thin, flexible aluminum? It makes no sense. Why not just get a flat aluminum plate such as cast tooling plate in the first place and be done with it? Unlike galss, aluminum is thermallby Ryan_M - Developers
I recently made a belt driven stepper to replace my Greg-Wade's using this this NEMA 14 stepper. I can't remember exact weights but IIRC the entire extruder (hotend included) weighed about the same as just the NEMA 17 stepper that came off the Greg-Wade's. I used a piece of 8mm linear shaft to mount the MK7 extruder gear and GT2 pulley, but using aluminum might be a good spot to save a bit of weiby Ryan_M - Mechanics
Haven't used my printer in a little while as I've been busy with other projects.I did try replacing slicer with a fresh install and no change. Ed, I didn't know about that variable. I'll give it a go. Likely it can improve the quality of the exported STLs but I don't think it's causing my current issues as I have printed fine up until now. Repetier displays the tool path as calculated by Slic3rby Ryan_M - Printing
Turns out I'm already using slic3r 1.2.9, I'll try reinstalling though. The preview looks like nice clean circles.by Ryan_M - Printing
Printed this spacer - basically a cylinder - and I'm getting this weird stuff going on. I know that the software makes circles out of short line segments but this is almost making nubs at the end of each line segment. The printer sounds like it's having a seizure when printing. I hope I got the light right to show whats going on. FWIW I draw in ACAD 2010 and export to stl, then import into repetiby Ryan_M - Printing
If I understand correctly you want to move where the steppers that are in the diagram to what you have drawn in purple. if that's the case then no it will not function properly. The belts coming from the Y gantry back to the steppers needs to be exactly parallel to the Y axis. You could put an idler pulley where the existing stepper pulley is and then move your motors where you like.by Ryan_M - CoreXY Machines
The printer kit I got a few years back came with what looks like a Greg-Wades if I have that right. The steppers that came in the kit are 2.4A models (these). The a4988 drivers I have cant drive near that so I'm running them at about half their rated current and so as far as I understand steppers I'd get about half the torque or 2400g*cm yet still it idled along. I wanted to try to lighten the exby Ryan_M - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist Is it flat enough? From what I've been told float glass is typically within a few waves of green light of being flat if properly supported (FWIW I'm into making optics for telescopes). However, a sheet that size has no chance on holding that kind of tolerance on its own especially at only 0.25" thick. So support will need to be well thought out.by Ryan_M - General New Machines Topics
Hi Lucianog, I don't have any hands-on time with the CoreXY design but I have read a lot about it and am working on my own. So far as I understand it the belts prevent racking of the X axis (keep it orthogonal) with respect to the Y axis. If the machine was built perfectly square then the belt tension would be the same in both belt to keep it orthogonal. But if it is built slightly off then oneby Ryan_M - CoreXY Machines
My first printer I bought a kit of a popular design. Parts didn't seem too bad though I do not like the printer design. Anyway It came with a Hexagon Hotend. I've been at this nearly a year and it hasn't given me any trouble at all. I'm working on building a better printer and picked up a second hexagon because of the reliability of my other one, however, I see them almost never mentioned so I'mby Ryan_M - Reprappers
I've been thinking about this and I'm planning to use MDF as well. FWIW I've been a wood worker long before I ever got into 3D printers. Baltic birch ply is nice stuff but I cant see justifying the cost for some marginal benefits that could be met just as well with MDF if the frame is designed properly. I agree with J-Max that you should look at 19mm material as the price difference is small andby Ryan_M - Reprappers
You're missing the voltage drop of the LED in the SSR. The data sheets list this as 1.2V typical, with a max of 1.4V. So the total voltage drop of the SSR's LED + the indicating LED could be anywhere from 3V to 4.7v.by Ryan_M - Reprappers
Quotesungod3kwhere do you find the 16mA and 24mA trigger range? HERE, top of page 8. Quotesungod3kok the 1k resistor felt funny so ill keep the 560 but put the led in series I'm not a big fan of adding the 'indicating" LED in series. Electrically its fine but adds a little more unknown. A google search shows that forward voltage drop of a typical red LED can range from 1.8V to 3.3V. If you stillby Ryan_M - Reprappers
Looking at the data sheet, the recommended input current is between 16mA and 24mA so lets use 20mA. If your RAMPS heat bed output is 12V and we subtract the forward voltage of the LED (~1.2V as per the data sheet), we have 10.8V. So 10.8V / 20mA = 540Ω. The next highest standard value is 560Ω as per your first calculations. The power dissipated by the resistor would be ~200mW so I would use at lby Ryan_M - Reprappers
Just to expand on what DD said... Transformers have an inrush current that lasts a few cycles, however, if power is suddenly cut the collapsing magnetic field in the core will create a voltage (in a sense act as a generator) for a very short period of time and try to feed it back to the source with an opposite polarity. So what I suspect is happening in DD's case is at the faster frequency the fiby Ryan_M - Reprappers
Thanks for the replies guys. Apparently I was WAY out, I thought I'd read typical PID was 8kHz.... must have been the beers! Didn't realize the AC SSRs would have zero crossing detection. Out of curiosity DD what hardware were you using in the first case to get the 7Hz PID frequency? A new build I'm planing is going to use Mega 2560+RAMPS (because I already have a couple on hand), that may changeby Ryan_M - Reprappers
@ Digital Dentist, Do you have a part # for the one you use? I swear I read somewhere the switching frequency of the PID control is too fast for SSRsby Ryan_M - Reprappers
I want to print an object that will need some support material. On some smaller objects I've let slicer do it's thing and it would change the way it would do support material from object to object - even though they were copies of each other. Some parts worked out well and the support material popped out easily, others took some hacking and digging and a few broken xacto knife blades. The part Iby Ryan_M - Printing
Hey guys, I'm not an engineer or anything so I'm hoping you can clear something up for me as I'm following along... Why are belt tensions being expressed as a torque value in Nm? Wouldn't a belt under tension strictly be a one dimensional force that should just be in N? Sorry if this is a dumb question. Thanks.by Ryan_M - CoreXY Machines
I have a prusa i2, marlin firmware, slic3r, and using repetier host. Printing ABS. I pretty much had the first layer dialed in perfectly set first layer to 'default' which is 200% extrusion at 40mm/s and calibrated the bed using a 0.2mm thick piece of paper I found. I had to take the bed off to repair a broken wire for the thermistor. I put it back and calibrated the bed with the same piece of pby Ryan_M - Printing
I'd like to get a supply of these but want to make sure I get the right part. As best I could find they are Molex KK series part # 22-01-3047 but they dont quite look the same as in the polarizing tabs as shown HERE. Maybe the ones I have are a knock-off or another manufacturers equivalent?by Ryan_M - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the input! Keeping it enclosed is definitely part of the design criteria. I was planning on using aluminum housed resistors powered off 120VAC for heating the bed, but the silicone heaters on ebay are looking like a nice cost effective solution.... either way 120V seems the way to go. Much more power on tap without having to deal with a power supply. I'm glad to see you mention it butby Ryan_M - Reprappers
I'm working on a design for another printer with a slightly larger area than typical (30cm x 30cm). I'm building it in a box in sense to keep heat in and probably add additional heat if required. Was looking at a corexy type of setup but it's not meeting some design criteria so might settle on a ultimaker variant. Anyway... I use ABS for now but I want to leave the door open for printing with otby Ryan_M - Reprappers
I'm pretty new to 3D printers and have only had mine on-line for 6 months - used sparingly. I've done a ton of prints just to try to fine tune things and have been sort of successful in correcting a few issues. However, to make things work for parts I needed right now I've figured out what size I need to draw holes and what size they actually print at... for instance I use a 8mm hexagon when I waby Ryan_M - Reprappers
Canada Bearingsby Ryan_M - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
As has been mentioned, a thicker piece of carbon might work. Or try bonding the CF sheet to another piece of aluminum to stiffen it up and help the heat transfer. Glass is a very poor conductor of heat, aluminum is ~250x better. Sorry to pull the thread a little OT but can you describe your current AL bed and how you treated it? I'm thinking on trying an aluminum bed but finding FLAT aluminum foby Ryan_M - Mechanics