Ah damn... Thank you, that is pretty much what I feared though. I hope there aren't any obscure or non-standard components... I'll try the M codes, thank you!by Ramon3D - Controllers
Hello everyone! A friend gave me his printer to repair, I have no clue what brand it is and I don't know anything about the components. All I know is that it's some kit he got off AliExpress years ago. I fixed the major mechanical issues, though there's still some stuff I need to do, like adding a cooling fan. Problem is, the Firmware isn't set up with a cooling fan in mind and I'd like it to bby Ramon3D - Controllers
I received it yesterday and just wanted to say that I'm very happy with it. I did have to slightly change the Hotend clamp so that my J-Head would fit, but it's working without any issues now. I'm using it on a Duet 0.8.5 btw. Edit: My Probe settings in dc42 RRF 1.17e: M558 P4 X0 Y0 Z0 H5 F120 T9000 G31 P600 X0 Y0 Z0 I had underbed FSRs on it before and didn't change anything.by Ramon3D - General
I Like to use these things: (German) Fredee RMCS couldn't find an english Version so here's the Google translated one: (Translated) Fredee RMCS I don't know much about electronics, but they seem to work really well. I use them to run 12v PCB heaters on 24v.by Ramon3D - General
I once had a Problem Like that because I tightened the case around it too strongly, so it was just very slightly bending the Screen and missing lines Like that appeared. So maybe try losening the screws?by Ramon3D - General
Does anyone have any experience or thoughts for this "Emotronic board"? Emotronic board I searched the forum but couldn't Find anything. That's why I'm asking here Anyways, this smoothie-compatible board Looks pretty interesting, especially for Just 75€by Ramon3D - Controllers
There are some Printers on Grabcad, like this one: Original Prusa i3 mk2 I have not Downloaded any of These yet, so I don't know how well they're made...by Ramon3D - Reprappers
I only used their QSM series in a 3D Printer as of yet, something like this (but not exactly this one ): Amazon Festo QSM The ones you linked will probably still work Just fine, I mean they're designed to securely hold a tube in high-pressure, high-temperature Applications.by Ramon3D - Reprappers
Festo maybe? They probably won't sell directly to private Individuals though, so you'd have to find a reseller.by Ramon3D - Reprappers
I buy most of my stuff from Dold Mechatronik I haven't had a bad experience yet. Their cuts are always very accurate, and nothing is bent. They're in germany and the shipping costs are usually not insanely high, even if your country isn't in the EU. They have the diameters you need in h6 and lots of other usefull stuff. Oh and on the topic of rust: these rods i linked aren't made from stainlessby Ramon3D - General
Okay it works now. I just replaced the files in the sys folder with the ones from the sys-minikossel folder.. I didn't really think it would matter that much which one i'd choose. Thanks for your help!by Ramon3D - Duet
1. I copied the files from sys-dc42Kossel, because my printer is not the Mini Kossel kit from think3dprint3d 2. it shows 4 the first one is just a house and then theres x,y,z 3. It said that it isn't in Delta mode 4. Yes it can read the config fileby Ramon3D - Duet
Hello, I recently finished the mechanical part of my delta build and hooked up all the Endstops, Motors, heators sensors etc. on the Duet 0.8.5. My problem is that when I tell the printer to Move to something like X10 (Through the PanelDue), it just moves the X-Carriage by 10mm, and all the others stay in the same Position, and don't get powered. Here's how I did the whole firmware stuff: - Iby Ramon3D - Duet
Hey everyone I recently bought a roll of DutchFilaments ASA-X, because according to wikipedia ASA is supposed to be an alternative to ABS. Now, I got it to print pretty well at 40mm/s Hotend at 250°C, Bed with 3DLac at 110°C. On glass without cooling. There is just one problem: about 5mm of the "outline" of the part lift a little bit off the bed, but only a small amount, so small that I can't seby Ramon3D - Printing
So I saw this thing online: Car air filter thing And i was wondering if this would work for the UFPs if i just put it next to a 3D printer in an enclosure. It has a HEPA and a charcoal filter, but i dont know much about filtration..by Ramon3D - Safety & Best Practices
Yes, I did calibrate the whole machine, anything that doesn't have a flat side facing -y is printed pretty nice and dimensionally accurate. It just confuses me that it happens everywhere on the buildplate and not just at the end that is as far away from the guide rails as possible, and the problem looks the same in each spot on that one side. Edit: okay i just found whats wrong... One of the plby Ramon3D - Printing
Hello everyone So I've got this Printer that I basically just cobbled together from some stuff I had lying around. The head moves in x and y and the bed moves up and down, its kinda like a bq witbox in terms of gantry design. Now the Problem is that when I print a cube, or anything with a flat side, the outermost perimeter won't stick to the other Perimeters and I can easily peel it off with myby Ramon3D - Printing
Hello everyone I'm helping a friend of mine build a Sintron mini Kossel, he has got most of it built, and is coming to electronics and firmware. Now I'm not too experienced with firmware related problems, so I thought we would ask here. Everytime he tries to compile the Marlin firmware, which he got from the ebay seller, he gets this error: sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:2206:36: warning: invalid sufby Ramon3D - Delta Machines
There's an older 32bit version of skanect further down on the download page. i've only tried the newest (free) 64bit version though, which seems to work pretty good. I don't know if it is the best, but it was pretty easy to use. Or did you already try that?by Ramon3D - General
Hello everyone I usually print with PLA, but I tried some different filaments last week.. They were FilaFlex, Taulman Bridge and Laywoo-D3, In that order. Now while printing with Laywoo-D3 the nozzle clogged, so I cleaned out the nozzle with a very small needle and by pushing through quite a bit of PLA, until it seemed to be extruding fine again. But now on every print I make, I get very smallby Ramon3D - Printing
Ok no what I wrote is a pretty stupid idea, I think I didn't read your question correctly so... I'm sorry.by Ramon3D - RAMPS Electronics
I was very confused too when I built my first printer because of this, but when you turn on the printer it thinks its at X0 Y0 and Z0, so it doesn't move to the left because it thinks it cant go any further. so when you home it, it ignores that and moves until it hits an endstop and then sets that position as X0 (on the x axis). or do you have it set up so the endstops are at the max. position beby Ramon3D - RAMPS Electronics
I tried turning the motors by hand, and it doesn't seem to make a big difference if the power is on or not (or if I tell it to move). But they are not as hard to turn as the steppers on my other printers, when the power is on. so since I already used different drivers and also tried it with new drivers, could my ramps board be broken?by Ramon3D - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the Answer I tried it with the endstop connected + Marlin and with the Test Firmware, I laso tried it with inverted endstops, and with manually holding them down. so when I use the M119 Command in Pronterface, it says that all of them are open. When I manually trigger it it says TRIGGERED, so I think the endstops are working. Then I disabled the endstops in the firmware and it still dby Ramon3D - RAMPS Electronics
Hello everyone I'm currently building a 3D Printer for a school project. All the mechanical stuff went pretty good so far since I'm a Design Engineer apprentice... But I'm not that experienced with electronics... I've already built a printrbot simple and a Prusa I3, but those two were kits, and now I'm building it with self sourced parts. Now here's my situation: I'm trying to get the motors worby Ramon3D - RAMPS Electronics