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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
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Re: Jamming question - 6 years ago
You don't mention what extruder/hotend you're using (my P3Steel runs with a Wade geared extruder and a E3D v6 hotend) but heres some things to check/try You say previous issues with your e3d v6 and heat creeping up the heatbreak part. Have you got a fan on the heatsink ? For me, without the fan there and on the filament quickly melts higher up and will jam.Could there be some contaminant in the hby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Best way to cool down the A4988 drivers? - 7 years ago
Also, which direction is it blowing ? I gather the ideal is for air to flow parallel to the driver pcb (ie across it). Most fan holders I've seen for the RAMPS type board have a fan held above the pcb blowing perpendicularly down onto it. Paulby paulhurleyuk - General
Re: Filament diameter compensation - 7 years ago
Indeed http://hackaday.com/2016/02/05/filament-thickness-sensors-what-are-they-and-what-are-they-good-for/ Paul.by paulhurleyuk - General
Glass Print Bed Chips, Replacement options ? - 7 years ago
I've had a P3Steel Prusa I3 syle printer for 18 months or so (http://orballoprinting.com/en/) succesfully, printing mostly PLA on a glass bed over the Mk3 aluminium heatbed with some PVA glue in water spread on every 6-10 prints. The last month or so I've had great adhesion, to the point that it was hard to remove print at times (maybe too much glue ??). The last two prints have both stuck way tby paulhurleyuk - General
Re: is my bed level wrong?? - 7 years ago
More info required; What machine is it ? New or been printing for a while ? (sounds like new from your post) What material ? What model, slicer and firmware are you using ? Have you calibrated the printer axis and extruder (http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide) Paul.by paulhurleyuk - General
Re: E-Step, Random Length extruded with same E-Step Value - 7 years ago
Did you update the thermistor value to the new E3D thermistor ? If not, it could be your hotend isn't at the temp you think it is which might explain both issues ? Paul.by paulhurleyuk - General
Re: Printing PLA with oil - 7 years ago
I've got a knock off E3D with an all metal hot end (no PTFE in the heat break) and when first installed it jammed fairly frequently, and I found a wipe of the filament for the first few prints with olive oil helped, I've seen comments that it helps 'season' the hot end and reduce friction. I haven't added any more, and definetly never added enough to drip anywhere. I also didn't see any problemby paulhurleyuk - Printing
Re: I admit defeat, A little help with my P3steel of you please. - 8 years ago
What slicer/settings are you using for that last print ? I also have a P3 Steel and recently had issues with bridging which I think is due to having the wrong extruder nozzle diameter. I thought it was 0.3mm, and after I did a free extrusion very slowly and got 0.55mm my print quality improved. Try doing the same test, and checking the other calibrations (x,y,z and extruder steps) and double cby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: plugged in my printer and nothing.... - 8 years ago
We need some more information to help I'm afraid What brand/make/model of printer ? What controller board make/model/rev ? What computer are you plugging it into (O/S) ? Paul. --by paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Issues with Calibration - 8 years ago
Layers seem very melty, especially at the top. Can you check your hotend temperatures ? Do you have a print fan ? If you have some calipers you can confirm your motion calibrations are accurate by homing, then moving a set distance (100mm) then measuring how far it actually went. If the machine was in storage for a while you might also want to run through all the possible calibration steps, lby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Really, Really dumb question. - 8 years ago
configuration.h is part of the controller firmware (Marlin I assume). To edit/build/upload the firmware you need an Arduino editor, which you can download here > Once you've got the Arduino editor installed, download your Marlin firmware (https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin) to a directory, and open the Marlin.ino file with the Arduino editor. It should then load all the other files rby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
Sorry, website issues, new link for instructions... Paul. --by paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Really, Really dumb question. - 8 years ago
The only stupid question is the one not asked.... An STL file, like you have is a shape file. It defines a shape in terms of the faces it is made of (lots of little triangles stuck together). To print something, your printer needs a set of instructions, which is called a GCODE file (GCODE is the instruction language used). To produce a GCode file from your STL file you need to 'slice' it. Thiby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Newbie question about DRV8825 and prusa i3 - 8 years ago
I'd also point out that the value from the online calculators is a good starting point. You will want to calibrate each axis and the extruder and adjust the steps/mm to be as accurate as possible. Paul.by paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
QuoteLirux Hi people. Anyone got the assambly instruction to the p3stell kit? I wrote them some days ago via e-mail and chat, but didn't get a reply yet. I found some on the www. But they are not exactly for the orballo version... Thanks, David I ended up using a collection of different assembly instructions with my P3Steel. Links to the ones I used here http://paulhurley.co.uk/index.php?oby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
I had the issue that the tracking number they sent wasn't for the courier that had been mentioned, but for another one (I thought it was Fedex but it was DHL if I remember). Eventually I googled the tracking number and google recognised which courier it was for. Paullby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: HELP PLEASE - 8 years ago
If you're based near Newcastle, MakerSpace run a 3D printing night the first and third Thursday of every month. There's often a few people who you could ask advice or chat about things. Paul.by paulhurleyuk - North East of England RepRap Usergroup
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
Quoteade2 I have a question for you guys. When making a flat surface as I was printing a larger X-axis part, the second layer had this weird pattern in about 70% of the areas while the remaining 30% had a impeccably smooth surface. Is it a heatbed temperature problem, or Z axis too low, or feed rate thing maybe? What do you think....? The next layer after that looked perfect though.... Could itby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
QuoteJustsomeguy1983 I have a couple questions for your orballo builds. For the x axis idler adjustment, did you have to use 2 623 bearings in the plastic pieces? One seems too lose for me and two won't fit without some filing down. My kit didn't come with the smaller 623 bearings (although it did have the plastic pieces for them ??). It had an idler gear with wide rims, although that was alsoby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
Theres not really any good overall guides, but there's a lot of individual stuff out there, on the reprap wiki and the wider web. The Marvin printed in about 25 minutes using standard settings, I've been slowing down my print speeds to improve the finish so that would take a little longer. Paul. -- www.paulhurley.co.ukby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
QuoteDVX1/ When moving each axis, I can move 5-10cm and then the stepper motors stop, sometimes they then start again for more movement. I can not reverse the direction back to the home position, is this normal? Not sure. Is the movement quiet and smooth or loud and jerky ? Is there anything on the pronterface console (like endstop triggered or anything ? Marlin includes soft endstops where afby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: The dreaded nozzle clog... How to fix? - 8 years ago
First, heat the hotend up to 150 or so and try an 'atomic pull' (google it) Try getting some nylon or ABS filament and heating the nozzle up, pushing the nylon in and then pulling out (repeated atomic pulls) Then try heating the nozzle up to 220 ish and try poking a thin piece of wire in from the outside in to push any clogs back, then try pulling that out Then you could try heating the nozzleby paulhurleyuk - Ormerod
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
Latest update from me, I got my printer all setup, and calibrated the axis, I ended up with 160 steps/mm for the X and Y axis, 8000 steps/mm for the Z axis and 1942.2716 steps/mm for the extruder. I pushed both my marlin configuration and the Slic3r configuration to github (https://github.com/paulhurleyuk/Marlin and https://github.com/paulhurleyuk/Slic3r). I then tried a few test prints and gotby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: limit switch and other Problems for brand-new-to-reprap-but-otherwise-really-smart guy - 8 years ago
Marlin is a firmware, that gets installed on Arduino style controllers that actually run the motors, heaters, etc. (the arduino controller could be called a RAMPS, a RUMBA etc). Typically the software 'chain' includes CAD software to design a 3d model file (OpenSCAD, BLENDER, Autocad, FreeCAD), this produces a model file such as a .stl Slicer Software that takes a model file and turns it into Gby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Help identifying huge print quality/calibration problem - 8 years ago
You mention calculating the steps/mm for your axis, but those are just the theoretical values. I would recomend following the concept in Triffid Hunters calibration guide and measure the start position, move the axis a set distance then measure how much it actually moved, for all axis (x, y, z and extruder.). Then adjust the steps/min value using the formula new steps/mm = old steps/mm X nominby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Z Offset problem - 8 years ago
I'm a newbie too, so take this with a pinch of salt, but... If the LCD is showing the Z0.8 that suggests the motors have not skipped steps (because the controller has counted the Z0.8). Where is the endstop for the Z axis ? For my printer I have the endstop mounted just above one of the Z motors so the nozzle just touches the printbed when it homes, and then Slic3r is set with a Z offset of -0.by paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
@DVX, I received 4 stepper drivers (also the DRV8825), so X, Y, Z and Extruder (the RAMPS board has two connectors for the Z axis so both Z steppers connect to one driver and this seems to work for me. I did get a fan for the extruder, which was packaged with the hotend kit along with a small blue plastic fan shroud. However, my fan was a 5V fan, and I plugged it into the 12V output on the RAMPby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
Next update So, got a reply both on the forum and direct from Orballo, Yes, the plastic tube goes inside the extruder body above and flush with the hot end. The hot end is then secured in place being pinched by two M3 bolts. I installed the end stops. the clips provided aren't great, for the X and Z axis they work, but not great (https://flic.kr/p/CsYpFX). For the Y axis they just didn't work soby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
How does this hotend/wade extruder go together (P3Steel/Prusa) - 8 years ago
I'm building a P3Steel I've bought a P3Steel Prusa i3 derivative, and am assembling it, even though the instructions are a bit slim (non existent). I've got most of the way through, but I'm a little stuck with attaching the hot end to the extruder. ( I've started the build.) I've got a Wade style extruder which is assembled, and a 1.75mm E3D 'style' clone hotend. The Hot end has a metal heatsiby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thinking of buying a P3Steel kit from Orballo - 8 years ago
OK, so using a combination of guessing, and other peoples instructions from the web as linked above I've started the build. Assembling the frame went easily, the frame seems straight, the paint hasn't chipped and there's not too many sharp edges or flash. I haven't used washers for most of the captive fastenings. https://flic.kr/p/Bpyven Assembling the Y axis motor and idler went ok. The kit incby paulhurleyuk - Prusa i3 and variants
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