Hey, I installed two tmc2208 for Z and extruder and two tmc2209s for X and Y axis yesterday in UART mode. I made sure the drivers (made by Bigtreetech) were inserted correctly, checked the DIR and EN pins and all. Infact, I quadruple checked. Since my Arduino's onboard 5v regulator is fried, I use the USB's 5v to trigger a relay in my PSU (Not an ATX). Upon connecting the USB cable and then flipby White.Renard - RAMPS Electronics
I believe I've solved the problem. I took ramps apart to take a look at the pcb, everything seemed fine. But then I noticed the mosfet. It had a broken leg that I had soldered again a few weeks ago and totally forgotten about it. It looked ok, but I decided to change the mosfet anyway. I replaced it with a IRF540N. I have a 220V SSR driven bed btw. Then I plugged everything back in and turned oby White.Renard - RAMPS Electronics
Quotefrankvdh I think you're right that you've excluded heater and thermistor electrical problems. Where are the hot end and PCB(s) in relation to each other? Could it be that the heat from the hotend actually heats the PCB and voltage regulators and so on? Another thought is that maybe something else starts to happen at 80C e.g. maybe the hot-end fan tries to turn on, but it is shorted somewhby White.Renard - RAMPS Electronics
Interesting... So to confirm this, I turned on the heaters and let it heated up the hotend and after the problem started happening again, I turned off the printer. Then removed the thermistor and heater cartridge cables from the ramps and turned on my printer. And it happened again, without the heater and thermistor connected. This should mean that the problem isn't them, right?by White.Renard - RAMPS Electronics
Hey, This is the strangest problem I've encountered on my 3D printer. A hypercube btw. I've modded my PSU with a relay so I can turn the PSU on and off using ramps. I did this months ago for 2 printers. No issue whatsoever, I don't think this is related to the relay. For this reason I need a constant 5V supply through USB so I can use the LCD to turn on the printer. I use a USB phone charger toby White.Renard - RAMPS Electronics
You mean Z offset? and probe's height? I think he did (around 9:15 he starts explaining). But one thing that I found was different for me was the height. He said the z offset should be less than 1 CM but mine is about 2.65 (-2.65 offset). My probe's is about 0.9mm off the bed surface when the nozzle is just touching the bed. (in center)by White.Renard - Printing
Nope. I do G28 then G29.by White.Renard - Printing
Hey, I've just recently finished building my Smartrapcore (Wooden) and pretty much everything works except the auto bed leveling. I'm using Marlin 1.0.2-1. Technically it woks (I've done prints), I mean after Z homes in the center, the probe goes to all 4 corners and probes and I see the probe's red light turning on and off as this happens. The problem is, the Z axis doesn't move at all to compby White.Renard - Printing
Hey, I've been building a wooden Smartrapcore and I'm just about done. I'm using Ramps 1.4. I was trying to calibrate my Z capacitive sensor (NO, NPN), it always showed as triggered with M119 regardless whether something was close to it or not. The LED only turned on when something was close to it and I tried to adjust the pot on top of the sensor and it didn't make any difference. So I thoughtby White.Renard - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Lite6? E3D Lite6 Hotendby White.Renard - Printing
Thank you everyone for replying! I've tried high temps like 242 at 40mm/s before and I still experienced the skipping. I've checked the tension, mk8 gear and current. I actually increased the current a bit more than the stepper (Stepper is 1.65, now I have it at 1.7). Now I'm gonna try to print at 50mm/s see if anything has changed. Haven't tried a cold pull yet, but I will. My stepper's torby White.Renard - Printing
Hey, Recently I got a heated bed and I've been trying to print ABS and my extruder skips on speeds higher than 35-40mm/s. This results in a temporarily under extrusion which shows like a missing layer on the prints. I'm able to print PLA at 75-80mm/s with ease and good quality, so I'm wondering why I can't do the same with ABS or PETG? I'm using this extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2by White.Renard - Printing
QuoteJamesK Yes, those are the pins. So I think you've proved that everything is working like it's supposed to in terms of getting signals from the controller to the motor, but for some reason the motor decides it doesn't want to play, but only sometimes. I think that takes us to the speed, acceleration and jerk settings. Try setting the Z jerk to 0, and the Z accel to 0.1 and see if it makes anyby White.Renard - Printing
QuoteJamesK Now to check for output from the driver to the motor. My first thought was to connect the probe between pairs of output pins from the driver, but I guess you could keep the -ve side of the probe connected to 0V and work your way along the 4 pins in turn. All you're looking for is some sign of changing output when the Z axis should be moving and isn't, so any one pin is probably enoughby White.Renard - Printing
Alright, I just tried doing this again, but during the actual printing. After hotend heated and printer started working, I held the probe on Dir pin and waited for first layer to finish, the led turned on fully lit when Z was supposed to move, but no actual movement. I did the same thing for Step pin on 3rd layer and it also lit, just dimmer. I tried Enb pin while waiting for 2nd layer to finish,by White.Renard - Printing
QuoteJamesK Sorry, I should have been more clear. I just meant the 0V or sometimes marked as -V side of the supply. You can connect to it anywhere that's convenient, but it's often easiest if there's a spare connector at the power supply to wire the probe in there so you don't have to try and hold two connections in place by hand. You want to be able to concentrate on the + side of the probe andby White.Renard - Printing
QuoteJamesK For checking voltage output from an IO pin you could just use a LED in series with a 1k resistor - that would draw about 4mA and should be visible, and the IO pins should supply that easily. Connect the negative side of the probe to the supply 0 and solder some sort of mostly insulated probe pin to the positive side of the LED (a piece of solid core wire would do). Then carefully holdby White.Renard - Printing
I don't have access to an Oscilloscope unfortunately... They're pricey! And I don't think my multimeter has frequency or duty cycle modes. How would I do it with a an LED? Well I mesearued the Vref on the drivers and for X and Y axis, they are 0.06 and for Z axis I've set it to 0.11. The motors don't get hot at all, just a little warm. These motors are hacked to be bipolar, using this guide: hby White.Renard - Printing
Yeah, It baffles me too! I can't think of anything anymore... Thanks for responding here btw I figured out why changing Z feedrate didn't affect the speed. I had to change Z feedrate in Printer settings, I had it set to 18 mm/m, so it didn't go beyond 0.3mm/s in EEPROM. But the main problem still presists...by White.Renard - Printing
I changed every speed in slic3r settings to 9. (They were all above 9 before) The G code for Z axis now shows F540. I think the Travel value in Speed for non-print moves section is where the Z speed is taken from. Since I changed it to 1, the gcode shows F60! But that still didn't solve the issue. I can't set it below 1 either and it affects other axis too! Weird thing is, no matter how much Iby White.Renard - Printing
I checked the Z offset in slicer, it was set to 0. I also tried triggering Z endstop manually during homing precedure to prevent it from actually going to Zero location. It started printing in mid air and the Z axis still didn't move, so if they were inverted they should have moved down towards the bed. Btw, the Z location on Repetier Host does show the movement, it went from 0 to 1 before I stoby White.Renard - Printing
Hey, I'm new to 3D printing and I've recently finished building my printer (Cherry 3D printer) and have been trying to fix it's problems, this one I could not figure out, so maybe you guys can help me out! The problem is the Z axis does not move up after the printing starts. It DOES however move during homing and in manual control. This results in the everything getting printed on first layerby White.Renard - Printing