I've uploaded a cut down version of the 500 x 500 Lid for the 300 x 300 size machine. On Printablesby NovaHuta - CoreXY Machines
All about head room when having cooling on head. You'll see some pics on the Printables site of how tight it already is. Other and next level cooling would be static cooling at the sides. (a.la. Havort 's builds are the first place I've seen that for super high speed printing). For me, 300-600mm/s is fast enough.by NovaHuta - CoreXY Machines
Yes, the key to an axial fan working is not much back pressure. So, you'll see the openings are quite large, they are backed off from the part too. To be honest, the one on the right works perfectly, no fan stalling, the one on the left stalls a bit but isn't bad. I'm thinking of trying a spacer just to move it back a bit from the mount plate. I think it stalls a bit at the top portion due tby NovaHuta - CoreXY Machines
I just refuse to let this head die, it has served me so well. Here is a new head for Core XY printers. It uses axial fans for cooling. Printables - Titan Aero E3DV6by NovaHuta - CoreXY Machines
Here is a holder for keeping your spools within the chamber. Fits nicely on a Rat Rig Core V3, probably others to but check clearances! Printable Linkby NovaHuta - CoreXY Machines
Hi All. My main board has been a SMART-RAMPS board, and it has been awsome! Love the openness of it and flexibility. I'd modified mine for 24V and it worked with Mega2460 and Duo boards interchangeably. I wanted to make a CoreXY in the style of Rat Rig Core V 3 though, this meant I needed six stepper drivers. Also, there have been updates in chips. Here, I present to you, what I affectionatelyby NovaHuta - For Sale
Oh, I'd definately recommend going with the RatRig core V3 design. Either that or a Voron. I think RR is easier and has some very good features. There is also the Havort kind of CoreXY but honestly, there is lots of overkill there and $$$. Here is a start. There is a discord server, a good group there. I'd built one following their design, it is all open source. You can buy parts from thby NovaHuta - CoreXY Machines
Hi All. My main board has been a SMART-RAMPS board, and it has been awsome! Love the openness of it and flexibility. I'd modified mine for 24V and it worked with Mega2460 and Duo boards interchangeably. I wanted to make a CoreXY in the style of Rat Rig Core V 3 though, this meant I needed six stepper drivers. Also, there have been updates in chips. Here, I present to you, what I affectionatby NovaHuta - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I've made this board for my own CoreXY (A RatRig Core V3 variant) printer. Got some extras to sell if anybody is interested. You see the schematic here (the board I ship will be tested and bodged to work as the 0.2 Version shown here unless you want otherwise). I'm shipping from Canada for 50$ CAD. You must provide your own drivers and Pico. Schematic: Board: GitHubby NovaHuta - CoreXY Machines
Very cool and elegant design. Needs a better name though! VDE-100 is just too generic and is lost in the internet of searches.by NovaHuta - Tech-Talk
So, I've heard it said (and I agree) that it would be nice to have more buttons on a printer! This push button encoder interface is ok but gets old quick. Would be nice to have some macros to put head in specific position that you want like taking out part, or when pausing and then resuming for for the common tasks like a quick jump to the main display view, etc. etc. So, I had this surplus paby NovaHuta - Tech-Talk
Yeah sorry, I don't do windows but I do recognize the driver CH340 .. it is the Chinese clone USB to UART chip. it is the knockoff of a UK chip. Still very common, there are a number of drivers for it out there. I have an open source driver on my macos system for it. I'd expect you can find an alternate one there. search github, there are a tone of choices there. I'd expect almost any one tby NovaHuta - Printing
Hmm. know the position. Live wild, wire it up and print out your electric box. I'd done that early this year. Was OK, Kapton tape was my friend to keep everything safe from shorts and electrocution. I'd put mine at bottom under build plate.by NovaHuta - General
Here are the details on my implementation of TMC RAMPS You'll find references you need there. https://github.com/kpishere/RepRap-iTopie/wiki/General-RepRap-iTopie-build-experience-and-details-of-significanceby NovaHuta - RAMPS Electronics
So, replaced the end part and removed the spring from the tensioner, coo-incidental really but none the less, after re-calibrating there is still this 0.1mm difference between different areas of the bed on my test-print BUT it is now just a tad closer to the bed and you know, 0.1mm difference in the first layer is good enough for reliable printing. It is only that far off at the extreme edges soby NovaHuta - Printing
Hi Y'all, just posted this improved carriage design for the Titan Aero hot end+extruder assembly. It faces forward and keeps most of mass in XZ plane. I can get probe and nozzel to all points on build plate with this configuration. Enjoy! Thingyverse.comby NovaHuta - Prusa i3 and variants
If you're partial to RAMPS, I'd suggest the following variant of it SMART RAMPS GITHUB It is supported in Marlin to work with either the MEGA 2560 or an arduino DUE -- I've had it working on both. So, you have option of 8-bit or 32-bit with little wiring changes and a board swap. Either that or one of the combined boards already mentioned that are newer. I would say though, I do like havingby NovaHuta - Reprappers
Hi Y'all, I've shared this mount on thingyverse/github. Thingiverse.com It is way more rigid and space saving than tacking the hot end to a carriage plate. k.by NovaHuta - Reprappers
Got this 3mm aluminum plate with Titan Aero head you see in pics below. Using Marlin with bilevel bed leveling and 9 measurement points. I'd just re-done the whole carriage and X ends to what you see below so that it does not stick out so much, is stiffer, and has the probe closer to the nozzle. Now, I can get the probe to all points the nozzle can go and it probes at very edges nicely. My beby NovaHuta - Printing
I've got a part here, I'd noted that shrinkage issues persist near the build plate (at 115 DegC) so, heck lets flip it around and allow distortion where it does not matter so much on the part! Here are some results of that, generally good but the shrinkage is pronounced. Any pointers or insights? It is printed in an enclosed chamber at 235 DegC head temp and the chamber is about 35-38 DegC.by NovaHuta - Printing
I'm sorry but why are people still building these? I went conservative on my first 3d printer build and build a RepRap I3 style one with RAMPS board etc but hmm, maybe I should have done a CORE-XY, there is likely enough info out there to get it done easily enough. But still, would never consider this model.by NovaHuta - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
My nicest rods came from two HP Deskjet printers. You'll get one 400mm rod each. You'll also get some DC motors, fasteners for future plastic projects (keep the screws!), some belts that may come in handy, and some optical sensors and gears (I've re-purposed those for a filiment runout sensor already). Here is the initial project RepRap-I3by NovaHuta - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
If you are pinting in an enclosed printer at 40 DegC, you could try adding support top layer to give firmness at top of support and have just a bit of part cooling start at a few layers away from the buildplate? I print about 50/50 ABS to PLA and I prefer ABS as a finished product but it is fussy.by NovaHuta - Printing
What kind of stepper drivers do you have? It sounds and looks like not enough current to them.by NovaHuta - Printing
Have you got adaptive layer height enabled? ( an experimental feature on Cura) I find it looks like that and generally don't like it. Only use it for draft items or items where features on the face are important but sides are not.by NovaHuta - Printing
Yeah, I'm seeing similar issues with Cura slicer. I think it is slicer+retraction setting related and not related to your physical changes described. It is really annoying as you'll see blank bits in finished part and on first layer, the plastic can curl up and get bunged up in print head on later passes. The breaks appear to be at height transition points? I'm tempted to try a different slicby NovaHuta - Printing
Bed temp of 130 seems high. Typical recommendation is 110 degC. However, I find that 115 degC makes a noticeably better stick of part to Kapton bed for the ABS I'm currently using. Recently, I've been experimenting with printing the part at 1-2mm above the bed to allow that first desired layer to shrink along with the other higher layers. In Cura, you have to change general settings to allowby NovaHuta - Printing
There is an open bug with fix for something like this that sounds very similar. I also have had issues with the second homing operation. If you also try the test of opening a serial connection (if you can) and execute a G28 multiple times and see how it behaves, that would confirm if it is same issue or not. If it is, please vote it up or comment on it as it is taking a while to get @thinkyheaby NovaHuta - Firmware - Marlin
hahaha ... that is so funny! Looks like the Mrs. is going to be wondering where her door mirror went.by NovaHuta - General