Hi Viktor, Hope your hand is better. I've emailed suscomp so hopefully I'll be able to get hold of some material to play with! I have the laser up an running coupled to the reprap prusa - video here and blog post here. For now its a sortof reprap laser cutter so I've been doing some quick/simple cutting tests with it using fan on/off to turn the laser on/off (laser power parameters are set on tby amk - Polymer Working Group
Hey all, What I actually got hold of was some dibond offcut from a local signmaking company, free of charge. Its two thin layers of aluminium (0.3 mm thick) with some polymer sandwiched in between. Its good to 80 or maybe 90 degrees C which is fine for PLA but you'd need to be able to go higher if you want to do ABS. Attaching resistors to it is tricky as its thin (3 mm) and mostly polymer butby amk - Ireland RepRap User Group
Hi @2ShedsJackson and @Spota, I have a 355 nm laser and I'm currently working on coupling the beam to my Prusa. When thats done, I'd love to have a go at some of these resins. 355 nm is probably not optimal but theres up to 10 W available so hopefully it'll have some effect well below that power.... aside from vapourisation . If either of you have any samples left please do pm me. all the best,by amk - Polymer Working Group
Martijn, Is it Kliment's sdramps? if so then the stuff here may help. The sd card g-codes are on the wiki here. Alanby amk - RAMPS Electronics
This is probably not quite what you're aiming at but its a good article worth taking a look at - lists the options for sourcing parts/kits :by amk - General
Hi Matt, My v4 died a few weeks back also, after about 4 mths of loyal service. I ordered a superpack from makergear which shipped the same day. Cost me around 115$ to get it to Ireland - not sure what that is in sterling. I've not pushed it hard yet but I can get 60 mm/s where I couldn't get decent quality beyond 30 mm/s with the v4. Anyway theres quite a few other hotends out there (mendel-parby amk - General
Hi Njones, Don't know much about the price of NEMA23's but am I right in reading it as £65+£63... seems pricey to me (i paid less than half that for 5 nema 17s delivered) but I could be way off the mark... I think you can just cut off the two 'extra' common cables - see wiki here for stepper wiring info. The arduino clone seems ok... but I don't know the intricacies of this ATMEGA1280-16AU vsby amk - General
hey Njones, Have a read here: . Its gives a good rundown on the various options and theres info on kits towards the end. For electronics theres quite a few options.... at the moment most people go for RAMPS but Sanguinololu is also becoming popular. Both pages have decent step-by-step instructions for assembly. In either case you'll need either pololu or stepstick stepper motor drivers (shouldby amk - General
Here's a pic. Its not a pretty sight tbh as was put together with whatever bits were lying around! I have a laser so I was able to do the gears on that and also a sliced wades extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5548). It's sort of a variant of the wolfstrap but with leadscrews for X and Y and an optical stage for Z. It worked well but was quite slow with a top speed of 13 mm/s iirc. Anywaby amk - General
Hi Njones, What RepRap version are you looking for? There are a few options for example makergear.com (US) have Prusa Mendels with something like a 2 week leadtime. The price is good but the shipping might be a bit harsh to here (I'm in Ireland too) but it might still be worth it. Mendel-parts.com (Netherlands) sell the more complex original Mendel but they're usually crazy busy so you might havby amk - General
Hi dslc, I'm up in Leitrim. I built a plywood repstrap earlier this year which then printed a Prusa (i shifted the electronics etc over to that then) which i've been running for a few months. Anyway sure PM me if I can be of any help to you. amkby amk - Ireland RepRap User Group
Hi Kiantis, I think they used epoxy to glue the PTFE cylinder to the extruder body. They put the rod down through it to avoid glue blocking the filament path. The silicone grease is to stop the rod also getting glued. That page has been superseded by a later version. Also the nozzle: . It seems the idea is that the peek block and screws take the forces instead of the PTFE thermal barrier. Inby amk - Reprappers
Hi Kiantis, I'm using a v4 hotend on a Prusa with an Accessible Wade's so its a slightly different beast but what I've done is to attach the hotend to a 4 mm sheet of plywood using 2x50 mm M4 screws up from the PEEK block - kinda visible here: . This way heat from the screws doesn't conduct into the extruder PLA! I have the PTFE barrel poking up through the ply and against the Accessible Wade's bby amk - Reprappers
Hi, The following blog post on 'Extracting 2D mendel outlines using OpenSCAD' might help: Alan.by amk - 3D Design tools
Hi Viktor, You could probably use them as windows in an enclosure. Do you have any transmission/absorption/OD data from the manufacturer to be on the safe side? According to the link, for 1W @ 445 nm CW you need an Optical Density of 3 which corresponds to a transmission of just 0.1%. More than likely you'll be ok, but when its your eyes you have to be careful! Absorption is good - if your (goby amk - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hello VDX, Its nice to see 1W of blue laser emission! Have you tried cutting through anything like thin plywood? Are you planning to use the filters for a safety enclosure? Something I came across recently is a calculator to estimate the OD required for safety, it might be of interest to you: Anyway, I guess you could do a crude test by placing the filter in front of the laser and see if it trby amk - Laser Cutter Working Group