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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: Testing Axes before completion - 11 years ago
Just about any host program should give you a widget where you can enter G code interactively. You can try moving around a bit with the G1 command. First do a G90 to set absolute positioning, then try G1 X10 F1000 for example to move the X axis to position 10. You can also move axis Y and axis Z this way (Axis E - the extruder - too, but there are some additonal considerations there) You willby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prints are backwards? - 11 years ago
Is the printer really moving in the right direction? Look at the Y axis. When you move the Y axis in a positive direction, the bed should move to the front, and obviously when you move in a negative direction, the bed should move to the back. Don't think of it in terms of where the bed is, think of it in terms of where the print head is in relation to the bed. When the bed moves to the back (by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Where to get Ramps 1.4 Connectors? - 11 years ago
I've not had good luck with crimping. Usually the electrical connection is OK, but the connector gets bent to the point where it does not insert easily into the housing. I find it far easier to just work with the pre-crimped wires, but that's me.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Where to get Ramps 1.4 Connectors? - 11 years ago
If you're not into doing your own crimping, you can get these and these and then just solder wire to wire.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Direct drive extruder - 11 years ago
You'll need to change your E steps/mm setting through a calibration procedure. There are many web sites that describe this procedure, but I like this one.by jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Trouble with a hollow sphere - 11 years ago
to make a sphere hollow, you need to difference it with another smaller sphere: difference() { sphere(r=10, center=true); sphere(r=9, center=true); } and the sphere will be hollow with 1 millimeter walls. To do the while thing: union() { difference() { sphere(r=10, center=true); sphere(r=9, center=true); cylinder(r=1, h=21, center=true); } differeby jbernardis - OpenSCAD
Re: Belt not in line with platform. - 11 years ago
This can cause a bit of an error in the print. Think about it, you are not moving the platform as measured on the side of the triangle, but along the hypotenuse. As the bed nears either end, the error increases.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: first layer and bad layer problem - 11 years ago
If your extruder motor is really hot, it can cause these issues. Fix that first and see what problems remain. A motor running hot usually means your stepper driver is turned a bit too high. You need to turn the trimpot on the driver board down. There are ways to calibrate the driver with meters, but I usually go by trial and error. Turn it too high and the motor gets hot; too low and it dby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Slic3r Retractions - 11 years ago
I retract on any move over 2mm. And I have the "Only retract when crossing perimeters" unchecked. Retraction shouldn't cause issues because the slicer reverses the retraction when it reaches its destination. The slicer settings let you add a bit of extra filament to this reversal in case you are still experiencing oozing, but that is where you can have issues. Guessing at the amount to add baby jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: Slic3r Retractions - 11 years ago
Whether or not retraction occurs at a specific point is based on 1) the distance to be moved after retraction, and 2) whether or not you are crossing a perimeter. Both of these (along with several other parameters) can be set within slic3r's configuration. A good explanation of this can be found here.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: add dwell after retraction - 11 years ago
I don't think there'd be any way to do that without a post-processing script. You'd have to look for everyplace the e axis moves in a negative direction. But thinking this through, I'm not sure it would solve your issue. When you retract, you are not stopping the ooze necessarily - you are just buying some time to get to the other end of the move before it starts oozing. Also, by leaving theby jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: Prusa i3 rework hotend - 11 years ago
I would recommend that, if this is your first printer, you should go with an official j-head from hotends.com. Many people have reported issues with clones. I have never had a single issue with the 3 official j-heads that I own, and the savings with the clone, in my mind, do not offset the risks.by jbernardis - Controllers
Re: Annoying Start Gcode - Clogging Hotend - 11 years ago
Like Floyd says, edit the start code in slicer and remove/edit the line. The start code is on the printer tab. Incidentally, you can't look at that line in isolation and say it is extruding 35mm. If you are using absolute extrusion, and the z axis had been previously at 34mm, this line will only extrude 1mm. I believe from your observation though that it IS extruding 35mm.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Prints come out too short - 11 years ago
What is your z max speed? If it's too high, I believe this can happen.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: Space between hot end and print surface - 11 years ago
You should get as close as possible. Many people use a sheet of paper as their gauge. I bought a cheap metric feeler gauge and I use the 0.02mm blade to set mine up.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Z axis Control problems - 11 years ago
Can you try swapping in a different driver board, just to see if you can isolate the problem? I don;t know your electronics setup, but I use RAMPS/Pololu drivers. I had one of my drivers fail to where the motor would go back and forth I swapped out the driver and all was well again. The drivers are somewhat fragile. If you plug one in, or even just plug a motor in, while power is on, you canby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Different extrusion width for infill - 11 years ago
You dont say what the problem is.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Z axis Control problems - 11 years ago
Check for binding in the axis. You can disconnect the couplers and see if you can easily move the z assembly up and down. It should not bind at all, and in fact you should be able to move it from either end - not just the center. If you have any binding, check the parallel if the Z bars. They need to be perfectly parallel. I've also encountered slippage like this is when one side of the axisby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: LCD unit on ramps... how does it work ? - 11 years ago
It is the firmware that actually displays data on the LCD. Nothing will show up on the LCD until you have the firmware loaded onto the arduino and have it properly configured.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Small streaks and holes - 11 years ago
I agree with tmorris9. It looks like things might be a bit loose - especially in the Y direction. Also, it looks like you might be overextruding a bit, and that you might benefit from working on your retraction settings.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Model Z dimensions - Clarification Please - 11 years ago
A 20 millimeter cube is a bad example. Print a model with various height horizontal surfaces. It can't adapt for them all, especially if you have two surfaces that are less than a layer height apart. You will simply get integer multiples of your layer height adjusted for whatever modifications you make to layer 1. If I open up the g code for a 20 millimeter cube, the z value for the top layby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Model Z dimensions - Clarification Please - 11 years ago
I use a feeler gauge and home mine to 0.02mm. There's certainly some error, but I also set my first layer height to 90% and things have worked very well for me for a few years now. You realize of course that if you print a 20mm cube, and 20mm is not a multiple of your layer height, you are not going to get a 20mm cube - you will get the closest multiple of your layer height. I have my layer heby jbernardis - Printing
Re: pronterface failure to connect the 1.4 ramps / 3D printer - 11 years ago
Quoteshayv07 ... i choose to switch firmware to sprinter and to work with pronterface.exe not python based. .... I'd like to know where you found this. As far as I know, pronterface is python based. I just googled it and all I could find was python code. There is nothing inherent in python that would make it less adept at handling serial programming than any language you could compile intoby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: How would you slice this ? - 11 years ago
I would think you'd need to first convert the point cloud to a watertight mesh. I've never done it, but I think meshlab can do it (plus it's free). Google "convert point cloud to mesh" and you will get several links. At least one of them is a youtube video for using meshlab to do this.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: pronterface failure to connect the 1.4 ramps / 3D printer - 11 years ago
It says access denied. On windows that usually means some other process has the port open. You don't still have your arduino IDE running do you. If so, close it down before connecting with pronterfaceby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: Wiring for a Prusa i3 - gauge choice - 11 years ago
Quoteanvoice Thanks for the feedback. I was worried that there might be some stringent specifications for wire size, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I got some 18 gauge and 24 gauge wire from ebay, I'll just use the 18 for the heated bed and 24 for everything else. You should be fine with that. The heavy gauge wire is needed where the amperage draw is high. The heated bed is number 1 onby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Ramps powered with only 1 PSU? - 11 years ago
I agree with Gordon. IR thermometers are inaccurate if used on a reflective surface. The output from D10 should read ~12V when the MOSFET is on. Don't forget that you're not using bang-bang methodology here. The MOSFET is usually switched on and off rapidly as indicated by the accompanying LED. I'm not sure, but I believe that a DC voltage here would show the average of all of those on/offby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: missing steps - 11 years ago
Very much so. Gear teeth require a lot of short movements. If you are printing too fast, this would be a prime spot for losing steps. Have you been monitoring these prints? I can tell audibly when steps are missed. There is usually a loud bang.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: printed part not the same as stl - 11 years ago
That looks to me like you need retraction. Do you have it turned on, and what are the settings?by jbernardis - Printing