Show all posts by user
Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: Repetier / Marlin question (Newbie) - 11 years ago
To add to the confusion, there is also a Repetier host program (which can work with marlin firmware)by jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Amazon Q - 11 years ago
I guess naive was a strong word, and I apologize for using it. What it boils down to for me is that I wouldn't even take notice if the wires were soldered in the picture because it would be immaterial to me. There's an expectation that some assembly would be required, and frankly I enjoy that aspect of the hobby. I might even remove the wires if I felt they were of insufficient gauge; I'd cerby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Ramps powered with only 1 PSU? - 11 years ago
As long as the PSU is rated for the amperage you will be drawing, then yes you can wire it that way. Like I said, the fuse on the left rail in your picture is rated for 11A, but it's expecting to be powering a heated bed. If you only have an SSR, then you will draw significantly less amperage. The power supply needs to be sized for your actual draw.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Polarity on Opto's - 11 years ago
Don;t just look at the wire - look at the circuit board where they are attached. The board itself should indicate Voltage, Signal, and Ground. The ones I have just have a single letter - V, S, and G - then trace the wiring from there. The ramps is similarly labeled, except I think it might have a + instead of a V.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Ramps powered with only 1 PSU? - 11 years ago
Yes - the heatbed output is the one and only thing on the 11 amp rail. You will not be able to control your relay unless you power that rail. It doesn't have to be a physically separate power supply if it is capable of providing the total draw on both rails. Since you are powering a relay, you won't be drawing the full 11 amps.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Kapton and PLA - 11 years ago
QuoteThelandofthedave What surface are you putting this on? ordinary window glassby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: Kapton and PLA - 11 years ago
I never use Kapton with PLA only with ABS. For PLA, I use a wiped-on layer of diluted white glue such as elmers. I dilute it approximately 1 part glue to 4 parts water and it works well.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: Printing With An LCD Controller (prusa i3) - 11 years ago
The RAMPS is supposed to power the arduino through diode D2 if it is installed. However, my first RAMPS had some kind of flaw where the power didn't get through. I solved the problem by connecting a DC barrel connector with a short wire to the power supply wire where it plugged into the RAMPS. Then I just plugged the barrel connector into the arduino. I tapped into the 5 AMP rail, and I tripby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Amazon Q - 11 years ago
Quotevreihen As an Amazon Prime member and frequent buyer who relies heavily on the accuracy of everyone's reviews, I will send you a five dollar Amazon gift card to lower your rating to one star and report them to Amazon for tampering with reviews. Does that answer your question/concern????? Me too, but I usually assume those reviews have merit. While it is poor practice to try to bribe someoby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Newbie Arduino/RAMPS Questions - 11 years ago
QuoteReplace Yes, you are correct, I meant that the power from the Arduino came from the Arduino's external power supply. Sorry for the interpretation difference :-) (As in the link I provided, which comes with the machine from its manufacturer) Thomas No problem, I just didn't want someone to see this and try to do it without the adequate PSU.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Newbie Arduino/RAMPS Questions - 11 years ago
My first RAMPS board had something wring with it where it did not power the Arduino, even with D2 in place. I solved this by connecting a short-wired barrel connector to the PS supply input on the 5 amp rail. This is easily removed, and the boards can be separated if necessary without de-soldering.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Will a PID for the heatbed work on RAMPS 1.4? - 11 years ago
PID works just fine for the heated bed, but it is overkill. The heated bed reacts so slowly that the temperature can be accurately maintained with bang bang.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Newbie Arduino/RAMPS Questions - 11 years ago
QuoteReplace you van solder a wire between the + of the Arduino and the + of the Ramps. Than your Ramps wil get its power from the Arduino. (You can find this hack in the Ramps assembly guide under Rostock Delta Mini Pro at the 3dprinterczar.com website, with instructions and photo's that's here: ramps power ) Thomas This hack does not power the RAMPS from the Arduino. It powers both the Ardby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Newbie Arduino/RAMPS Questions - 11 years ago
The RAMPS has two power connections. One is for the Hot Bed and is meant to be 12V/11Amp. It does nothing else. The second is 12V/5Amp and is meant to power everything else. There is a diode in this second circuit - the infamous D2 - through which power is supplied to the Arduino. If you are planning on powering this "rail" with more than the normal 12 volts, you MUST omit/remove D2 and provby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: OpenScad computer - 11 years ago
An is with 8th is plenty of horsepower. What is your value for $fn? If this is too high, it greatly impacts rendering time. I usually use inot the 30 to 50 range.by jbernardis - OpenSCAD
Re: X moves when homing Y - 11 years ago
It won't be where the end stops are connected. If you have the x and you end stops swapped, the correct axis will move, it will just crash through the endstop. More likely the motor connection. Although you say manual motion works correctly. There is no firmware setting for which axis homes with which command.by jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Trouble printing - 11 years ago
I'm not sure what the picture link is. It just takes me to my Google drive. In any event, without even seeing the object, 220 seems awfully high for PLA. I use 225 for ABS and 185 for PLA. I have used those temperatures from day 1 and have never had an issue. I never tried it, but I would expect that at 220, PLA would take a while to cool which could compromise the print qualityby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Odd final 1/3 of print - 11 years ago
I was thinking it looked a bit like a cooling issue too. Do you have a fan to cool the printed object? It helps tremendously with PLA.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: First print, tuning advice. - 11 years ago
What is your z acceleration? Perhaps it's too high.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: trouble with first layer width - 11 years ago
When you are setting up your z home height, the height should be as close to 0 as you can make it. People use the piece of paper technique; I use a 0.20 mm feeler gauge. The head is actually raised to print the first layer. The other thing I do is make the first layer height lower than my normal layer height. Normal height for me is 0.2mm, first layer is 90% or 0.18mm. I never understood thby jbernardis - Printing
Re: What is FR (adjustable on LCD) - 11 years ago
Feed rate. It us a multiplier that is applied to the printing speed. Check out the M220 command. It takes a few seconds for it to start because of the buffering that is going onby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Inconsistent prints (even with the exact same gcode) - 11 years ago
If your z switch is moving even a small amount, that's likely to be the cause. Not for certain, but it's worthwhile eliminating it as a possibility. I'm not familiar with the construction if your printer, but you've got to stabilize that switch. Can you use a bolt/nut or a screw? Yes x and you are not as critical. They just need to be close. Z, however, is critical that it be exact and consby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Disregarding triggered end stop during print - 11 years ago
I don't see anything about that to cause downward motion. It's not a good preamble though; it should assert absolute coordinates and metric measurements. That code is improperly making assumptions.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Oversize print - 11 years ago
Perhaps it's mechanical. Are the belts loose, or is there any binding in the movement of the axis?by jbernardis - Printing
Re: current drawn by NEMA23 at 12V - 11 years ago
The arduino is not a problem because the motor current does not pass through it. I also think the drivers would be ok. I'd worry about the RAMPS board itself. To start, the fuse on that rail is only 5 amps, and it protects all of your motors and hot ends. You might exceed that easily..by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Chaos - 11 years ago
Are you sure your electronics are set up for microstepping? For 1/16, you should have 3 jumpers installed beneath each pololu (assuming you have RAMPS)by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Inconsistent prints (even with the exact same gcode) - 11 years ago
How precise is your z endstop? Looks to me like you might be getting inconsistent starting heights.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Oversize print - 11 years ago
Most likely it's caused by a bad steps/mm setting in your furmware. Have you properly calculated your values? Try the calculators here or here.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Disregarding triggered end stop during print - 11 years ago
It would be interesting to see the first 50 or so lines of g code, with some indication of where the offending line was. I'd like to try to figure out why a positive move would cause the head to move down.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Wavy pattern - 11 years ago
What Opus said. That was my experience as well. And my remedy as well.by jbernardis - Printing