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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: Cant Print ABS - 11 years ago
Do you have a way of verifying the hot end temperature? It sounds like the temp is too low. I print ABS at 225, so you are in the right range, but it would be good to know if you are really reaching the temp you are asking for.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Cant Print ABS - 11 years ago
You'll need to elaborate a bit on what "can't print" means. Do the motors move, does plastic extrude, is something printing but its poor quality, are you seeing error messages? Just saying you can't print gives us nothing to go on.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Layer Plastic Volume - 11 years ago
I don't know about doing it in repetier, but it's simple to total up the extrusion length on any given layer by analyzing the g code.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: RAMPS 1.4 Woes !!! Need a Hail Mary pls !!!! - 11 years ago
QuotecrazyhorseX ... i was adviced not use 4 leads to the ramps board, but power only the 11A from the PSU Does this mean you do not have power to the 5 Amp rail? If so, then that's completely wrong. The 11 Amp rail powers the heated bed and nothing else. All other components - hot ends, stepper motors, etc, are powered via the 5 amp rail. If you do not have power connected to the 5 amp coby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Half-Sized Perimeters - Better looking Prints in half the time - 11 years ago
I hardly ever use skeinforge any more, but I am pretty sure the skin plug in is what you are looking for.by jbernardis - Skeinforge
Re: Updated firmware, squeeeee noise - 11 years ago
I have no knowledge of that Web site, but why not get the firmware from the official location.by jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Ramps PWM Fan Control - 11 years ago
If you only have 1 extruder you can just use the second extruder pin. In fact if your motherboard is type 33, it's already defined this way. If you have 2 extruders and have your mb set to type 34, then by default the pin used is number 4, I believe, which is on the first servo connector. If you use this method, the RAMPS cannot be connected to the fan directly- you will need a small mosfet ciby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Prusa i3 not Moving - 11 years ago
Have you tried homing each axis? You will have limited movement until you home. Notably, you won't be able to move towards the home positions. Also, check your end stop status. M119 is the command I believe.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Heated Bed Not Very Heated - 11 years ago
yes - what tjb said. The resistance of the hot end is higher than that of the bed so it draws less power. Just look at the fuse configuration. One 11 amp fuse protects the heated bed only. The 5 amp fuse protects 5 or 6 steppers, 1 or 2 hot ends, and perhaps fans. The wire gauge needs to be appropriate for the current draw. When your bed heat is on, do the wires themselves start to warm up?by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Heated Bed Not Very Heated - 11 years ago
I'm assuming terminal 1 is common, and 2 and 3 are the two halves of the board. They're wired in parallel. It's hard to see, but the wire going between 2 and 3 appears to be small. Is that the same gauge as the other wires in the photo? You're carrying a significant amount of current through this wire. I guess you could go as small as 20 gauge, but I'd recommend 18. Not sure what yours is.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: words printing mirrored - 11 years ago
Quote65c10restomod how do I change the home direction it homes to the front (mendel i1) You need to make a change to the firmware config. I'm not where I can check, but configuraton.h has a setting something like INVERT_Y_AXIS (actually there's one for each axis). This is either true or false; you just need to change it from what it is to the opposite. You will also need to change your y endby jbernardis - Printing
Re: words printing mirrored - 11 years ago
no - importing a mirrored image is a bandaid. The real solution is to correct your axis direction. Only one axis is reversed, and it's most commonly the Y. It's difficult to know since you didn't include a picture. When the Y is at the 0 position, the bed should be all the way to the back; a lot of people want to put it forward, but really you need to consider the position of the head - whenby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Heated Bed Not Very Heated - 11 years ago
IN a series, or in parallel? I'm not familiar with that heated bed, but it seems to me you'd want parallel. In a series, you're basically only getting half of the voltage to each side of the board, and you won't get the heat output that you need. Can you show us the photo you used for guidance as well as a better shot of the connection?by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: First layer perimeter - 11 years ago
You know you can set the temp with the M109 command instead of the M104. M109 will wait until the temp is reachedby jbernardis - Skeinforge
Re: wavy walls problem - 11 years ago
I've seen this kind of thing caused by too high of an acceleration setting. I usually saw this kind of thing near to corners, and it was always on the side of the corner that the extruder was coming out of - not into. What's interesting is that when there is a horizontal hole, the ripples take a circular pattern - it literally looks like ripples on water. I sort of explained it to myself thatby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Working out the electronics - 11 years ago
Those gold things look like power resistors. I've seen them used for heated print beds, but I can't imagine that that is their intended use with an i3 kit.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: First layer perimeter - 11 years ago
Your E value is gradually climbing, so your G Code looks to be correct. Are you priming the extruder before you start? I ALWAYS use the manual extrude to get extrusion to start before I hit the print button, and I waste as little time as possible between the two so there is no oozing.by jbernardis - Skeinforge
Re: LCD not displaying, using Marlin and RAMPS 1.4 - 11 years ago
Have you tried adjusting the LCD contrast? There's usually a trimpot somewhere on the board for this purposeby jbernardis - Controllers
Re: Heated bed not getting power to D8 output. - 11 years ago
Are you connecting power to both inputs on the RAMPS? The 11 Amp connector feeds the bed. The 5 Amp connector feeds everything else.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Print starts be heated TAZ 4 - 11 years ago
you only have the temps in one place - under filament. That's the whole point of using the parameters. At slice time, the temperatures you have for the chosen filament will be substituted into the above G Code. There is no actual temperature in the G Code What I showed you before is literally what you put into the start code - brackets and all.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: Wobbly Hot-End Temp - 11 years ago
That's too regular of a rhythm for it to be a loose wire. My guess is that your PID values for the hot end are incorrect. You don't say which firmware you're running, but I assume it's Repetier?? I don't know repetier, but marlin has an autotune feature that alows you to get a good start with PID. I assume repetier has something similar.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Print starts be heated TAZ 4 - 11 years ago
In my start G Code, I have the following: M140 S M104 S M190 S M109 S The first two set the temperatures of the two heaters, but does not wait. The third line waits for the bed to reach temperature Line 4 is put there just in case. Usually by the time the bed heats up, the hot end has been at temperature for a while. This line just makes certain of that. There's almost never any actual waiby jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: Z banding, indeterminate cause - 11 years ago
You're ruling out z wobble because you have smooth guide rods. In my experience, Z wobble isn't caused by the smooth rods - it's caused by the threaded rod - and the smooth rods don't always eliminate it. It's difficult to see as you move from layer to layer, because it is only moving a small distance, but try this. Raise the x carriage way high - as high as you can go, and then hit the Home Zby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Disregarding triggered end stop during print - 11 years ago
The endstops are (usually) only used during homing. During printing, you can crash right through them. I'm more concerned about why your head is moving down. That shouldn't happen. Once it's homed, it's at position 0 and it should not need to go below that point. Does your G Code have an instruction to move to a negative Z height? That's the only thing I can think of that might be causing tby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Z axis wont move down - 11 years ago
If you're trying to move downwards without first homing, it won't happen. On power up, the firmware assumes it is at z=0, and it won't go below this point. Home it first with G28, then you should be able to go in both directions. Of course you still can't go below 0 edit: I just read the part about both buttons moving upwards. I've never seen that before.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Extruder Motor not turning while printing, but works while testing - 11 years ago
I repeat - what does your G Code look like? Is it even calling for extrusion. If you are using skeinforge and do not have the dimension plugin enabled, it till generate code for axis movement, but no extrusion. I'm just trying to rule this out before going crazy with settings changes. The buttons on the pronterface screen have nothing to do with the G Code that is generated by your slicer.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Extruder Motor not turning while printing, but works while testing - 11 years ago
What slicer are you using, and what does the G Code look like? If you could put the first 50 or so lines of G Code up on the forum, it would help with a diagnosis.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Heated bed has no power - 11 years ago
The arduino just provides a logic HIGH level to the MOSFET - that's what traumflug was asking you to check for. When the MOSFET sees this, it's supposed to open the gate and let the voltage from the power supply (via the 11 AMP fuse) get to the heated bed. When you say you're getting 1.1mv on D8, are you really measuring the arduino output, or are you measuring where it says D8 on the RAMPS. Wby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: 1.1.6: Rotate object in x or y direction? - 11 years ago
As far as I know, slic3r has never had this ability. The only thing I've ever been able to do is rotate around Z. Anything else requires an external program like meshlab.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: SD printing - 11 years ago
As I mentioned before, just make the extension ".g". The rest of the file name is up to you. I usually don't bother with directories because I only use the SD card as a temporary measure. Rarely do I store files there "permanently"by jbernardis - Reprappers