Show all posts by user
Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: Problems in Printer Interface - 11 years ago
Skeinforge is just a slicer. It does not interact with the printer in any way. The fact that you are talking about the window on the right makes me think you are using pronterface. Pronterface is what talks to the printer.by jbernardis - Skeinforge
Re: How to solve my problem - 11 years ago
You might search through thingiverse for thread libraries. I don't know anything about their accuracy or if they will meet your needs, but I know there are several of them.by jbernardis - OpenSCAD
Re: Have I fried my RAMPS? - 11 years ago
You might have just fried the D9 MOSFET. The MOSFET is the upright transistor that has a metal tab to which you can attach a heat sink. There are 3 on a RAMPS, one for D8, D9, and D10.If you're handy with a soldering iron, it's not that difficult to replace, and the component itself is relatively inexpensive. If there's nothing else obviously wrong, this is the approach I would take.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: What software am I going to need? - 11 years ago
Autocad can export to stl directly - no need to use openscad for that. Just make sure you have your units set correctly. If you're models are too small by a factor of 25.4, it's a good bet that autocad is expressing everything in inches, while your printer is expecting millimeters.by jbernardis - General
Re: Is any program for real 3d infill? - 11 years ago
The only thing I'm aware of, and it might not meet your needs, is that recent versions of slic3r have what they tout as 3D honeycomb infillby jbernardis - 3D Design tools
Re: My printrbot printed as a mirror - 11 years ago
This is a common mistake. One of your axes - most likely the Y axis - is backwards. Where is the printbed when you home the Y axis to Y=0? If your answer is that it's all the way forward, then it is backwards. Y=0 is when the printbed is all the way to the back. The print head - which is what should be your reference point - will be at the front. You either have to set up your firmware to hby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Fishing line traction drive - 11 years ago
The traction drive works really well. I just printed a couple of test pieces and installed them on my printer - on one side only - and it was flawless. I was worried that the string would jump out of the groove on the sides where it changes level, but I couldn't get it to. I am using the original spool as my drive shaft and think I might stay with it - it too works well, and it is well engineeby jbernardis - Developers
Re: Power Supply I am confused - 11 years ago
The RAMPS board will power the Arduino if you have D2 soldered in place. If this is the case, do not exceed 12V on the PSU that you connect to the 5A connector or you may fry the Arduino. If you want to power the steppers with more voltage - some people do - The RAMPS handles it just fine, just do not install (or remove) D2.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Z axis zero problem - 11 years ago
It's normal behavior when homing for the motors to stop when they hit the limit, back off a bit, and then come back down at a slower pace. This tells me that your Z motors seem to be working at slower speeds. Speed can be a factor when motors don't seem to work. Many people report that they can move manually, but motors don't move while printing. I'd do one of two things - drop your homing sby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: Problems in Printer Interface - 11 years ago
Why are you putting this in the skeinforge section - this should go in pronterface discussion.by jbernardis - Skeinforge
Re: G-Code and Arduino (2)
- 11 years ago
From the tone of the questions, I think the OP needs to read up on processors and programming in general. The Arduino is a microcontroller/processor - it is a small computer. The firmware is a program running on the arduino. Reading sensors and outputting voltages is what it does.by jbernardis - General
Re: Which LED/resistor combo to use? - 11 years ago
You could do just what I do - figure out the polarity of your wiring and just install one LED. I put a small section of red heat shrink tubing over the positive wire and I've never had an issue.by jbernardis - Controllers
Re: Impossible shape ? - 11 years ago
you can scale a cylinder by different multiples on different axes to get an oval. whoops - I just read through the previous posts - my post was a bit redundant!!by jbernardis - OpenSCAD
Re: Problem with Ramps 1.4 and Adruino - 11 years ago
Did you hook up a power supply to the RAMPS? The USB/Arduino power may turn on the LEDs, but it does NOT power the motors or heaters.by jbernardis - Controllers
Re: Fishing line traction drive - 11 years ago
Your illustrations have been extremely helpful. My bearings are due to arrive on thursday, but in the meantime, I've designed the mounting plates and printed one off. Once I have it in hand, I can play around with how it's going to fit into the printer. I haven't totally abandoned the spool approach yet, but given the stage I'm in with building the printer, now is the time to experiment withby jbernardis - Developers
Re: Fishing line traction drive - 11 years ago
I ordered some bearings to give this a try. I guess you're using an m5 spacer to fit over the 5mm stepper shaft. Did you insert a grub screw to anchor it? One thing that concerns me about a spacer is that they are not manufactured to have a snug fit - they actually have a bit of clearance for the intended screw size. At McMaster, for example, the M5 spacers are 5.3mm ID. A grub screw wouldby jbernardis - Developers
Re: Marlin Firmware/LCD Display Text Scrape - 11 years ago
M27 only gets the status of an SD print - at least that's how it's described hereby jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Fishing line traction drive - 11 years ago
I wish I could visualize this a little bit better. I see in the photo that one side of the assembly has 4 bearings and the other 3. I guess this is to allow for a downward spiraling. On the side we cannot see, what is the arrangement? You say your prototype has 5 loops around the center, but in the diagram I only see three. I assume that the diagram is simplified, and that you actually haveby jbernardis - Developers
Re: Problem With Electronics!! - 11 years ago
Just because you haven't connected end stops does not mean that is not the problem. M119 will tell you for sure.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: ESP8266 Wifi module - 11 years ago
The RAMPS 1.4 wiki discusses using a BT module for PC communication. I never tried it, but would be interested in knowing anyone's experiences.by jbernardis - Developers
Re: PSU connector got melted.... - 11 years ago
That's a common point of failure. There is an awful lot of current passing through that connector. The one that came with my ramps was rated at 10 amps, but the heated bed can draw more than that. Of course, any electrical connection is going to be at its weakest where there is a connection. I've since replaced my connectors with one that is rated up to 15 amps. I think I got them from mouserby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: My x/y/z motors won't turn reverse! - 11 years ago
I agree with what steveroy is saying. If it only moves when you press the endstops, then your endstop logic needs to be inverted. Use M119 to see what it is reporting, and invert the logic in configuration.h if needed.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: My x/y/z motors won't turn reverse! - 11 years ago
Have you done a home yet? The firmware generally will prevent you from moving towards the home positions until you have done a home (G28). Of course to do a home, you have to have your endstops set up (or be ready to trip them manually)by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: CoreXZ - 11 years ago
I haven't purchased my lighter string yet, but as an experiment I printed my own spools, just a little bit longer and with a slightly larger diameter than the aluminum ones. I restrung everything, and was happy with the way everything worked. The string paid out of the spools nicely, but even better it was taken up by the spool very neatly. The only difficulty I am having is knowing just howby jbernardis - Developers
Re: CoreXZ - 11 years ago
I had a little better luck. I used my wrapping strategy as discussed above, and it worked fine. I was able to reach all 4 corners of the printer frame. However, after a few minutes, I noticed a sound I didn't like, and as I looked closer, I saw that the line coming into the spool was fouling the line going out again. I think I am just too close to the limit of what the spool can handle. Befby jbernardis - Developers
Re: Z-axis moves correctly, but prints come out at half height - 11 years ago
If it moves correctly using the manual buttons, but doesn't print properly, check your max z speed in your firmware. If this is set too high, the stepper might not be able to keep up with what the arduino/RAMPS is asking it to do.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: CoreXZ - 11 years ago
My z travel is 325 and my x travel is 350. This works to 23.43 wraps. I just took an empty spool and was able to get 26 wraps on it, so the spools I have should work. I'm going to try a different approach. I'm going to put all 24 wraps on one side, and string that to the x carriage in the closest position - which I believe is at the bottom on the opposite side. Then the other end, which is tby jbernardis - Developers
Re: CoreXZ - 11 years ago
I had a lot of trouble wrapping the strings this way. Because of the size of the printer, I had to wrap more string than the spool had capacity for. The string that was paying out kept getting fouled by the string coming in. I am currently in the process of printing a set of self-designed spools. I probably won't actually get a chance to try them out until late on saturday, but either they neby jbernardis - Developers
Re: CoreXZ - 11 years ago
When the spool is filled like you say, as one side pays out, the other side takes in. This means, to me, that if I start with the spool half filled from each side, I should start with the gantry at about the middle of its travel and string from that position.by jbernardis - Developers
Re: CoreXZ - 11 years ago
Thanks for that. I was wondering what those extra holes were for. I would guess that I need enough string on each "end" to reach to the furthest point of the axis. I have a question though. If I'm doing it like this, shouldn't I have a tensioning device (guitar tuning peg) at each end of the string? If I don't, the tensioner would need to be able to pull the string through the off axis holeby jbernardis - Developers