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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: CoreXZ - 11 years ago
I was so inspired by this thread that I decided to abandon the design direction I had been going and try to implement this. I had a lot of aluminum extrusions laying around, plus some V wheels from openbuilds from an earlier abandoned project, and decided I would use those in the build. Currently, I only have the X and Z axes built, but I have started experimenting with moving things around andby jbernardis - Developers
Re: Hot End Cooling off - 11 years ago
I had a similar issue on my printer, and it turned out to be a broken connection on one of the heater wires. It happened where these things usually do - right at the connector I put in so that I could easily detach the hot end. I replaced my MOSFET, I replaced my ramps board, but what finally gave me the clue was that I noticed that it was only happening on the right side of the print bed. I wby jbernardis - Printing
Re: Homing issues - 11 years ago
Most likely George4657 is right. When you are moving around with the buttons, it is usually at a lower rate of speed. You can lower the homing speed as suggested, but you might experience similar issues while printing. You might have to play around a bit with the trimpot settings on the stepper driver boards.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: I got the endstops working but Y-logic. Y_min stopper at back? - 11 years ago
That picture is very misleading. They show (0,0,0) at the front left of the bed. Given that, the Y endstop is not a Y Max endstop - it is a Y Min. This picture also shows the X endstop as a Max, and while it IS a max in the picture, I think most people put their X endstop on the left in which case it is a MIN endstop.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prints mirror image - 11 years ago
Yes - Justcurious has provided the information. The direction of travel of the Y axis and the home position are two separate settings in the firmware. Given that you had it set up backwards, you needed to invert the axis using the INVERT_Y_AXIS setting, toggling it from its present condition. Once you invert the axis, you have basically reversed MIN and MAX positions. So then you need to eithby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Introducing KISSlicer - 11 years ago
There is a recent beta of kisslicer available on their website as of early september 2014. I downloaded it and looked at it a bit, but haven't tried it yet. I prefer to work within my host program, doing my slicing via command line interface. I only go into the slicer itself 1) to change settings, and 2) if I am doing something really unique. Does anybody know if there is a way to slice a filby jbernardis - Experimental
Re: Which LED/resistor combo to use? - 11 years ago
There are many LED resistor calculators on the web. Just google it. Get whatever LED radio shack has and plug the spec numbers in to calculate the resistance. There're only 2 or 3 numbers involved.by jbernardis - Controllers
Re: Prints mirror image - 11 years ago
There should be a setting in the firmware to invert the axis. You will also need to move your endstop to the back of the printer.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Slic3r vs Firmware acceleration settings - 11 years ago
The firmware is the ultimate speed limiter. If the slicer requests a high speed, and the hardware can't support that (as represented in the firmware settings) then that speed will never be attained. Instead, it will no longer accelerate once it reaches the firmware max.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Prints mirror image - 11 years ago
Most likely your Y axis is reversed - it's a common mistake. When at y=0, the bed should be all the way to the back, and when at y=200, the bed should be all the way to the front. The coordinates do not reflect where the bed is, they reflect where the head is relative to the bed. When the bed is all the way back, the head is at the front edge, or y=0.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Cura and M80 - 11 years ago
I wasn't aware that cura puts statements before the start code.by jbernardis - Experimental
Re: Cura and M80 - 11 years ago
Why not - you are free to put whatever you want in the start G Code.by jbernardis - Experimental
Re: Help with blobbing - 11 years ago
Looks like you need to experiment a bit with retraction settings. What slicer are you using?by jbernardis - Printing
Re: How to resize an .stl - 11 years ago
I usually do my scaling with meshlab.by jbernardis - 3D Design tools
Non-continuous perimeters - 11 years ago
I am running 1.1.7 Stable, and I have noticed new behavior: Every once in a while, for some unknown reason, slic3r does not give me a continuous perimeter. It will draw part of the perimeter, then move elsewhere print a little bit, then come back to where it left off. I've seen it break the perimeter into 5 or 6 pieces doing this. Last night it did this in the middle of a bridge - totally rby jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: Runaway X and Y axes during first print - 11 years ago
Do you have the proper jumpers installed for your micro-stepping settings. Micro stepping comes into play when calculating your steps per millimeter. If your firmware is expecting microstepping and you have no jumpers you will go beyond your endstops.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: vertical lines on my prints - 11 years ago
Yeah - I had the same thing, but not so bad. It's definitely due to acceleration being too high. The head doesn't really "turn a corner" because the X and Y motions are realized with different mechanisms, but when the X or Y axis comes to a stop, there might be some shaking. It all depends on the mass of the carriage and the speed of acceleration. Slow it down and you should see improvements.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Inset feature for Cura - 11 years ago
I don't know if you ever made a formal pull request for this feature, but I see in the github history pages that Daid rejected a similar request from Greg Frost on March 14. So I'd guess that this request is not going to be adopted either.by jbernardis - Experimental
Re: Undersized circles - Has this been solved yet? - 11 years ago
Skeinforge had the issue as well. Cura seems to do well - especially if you have Sublime's version with the inset setting.by jbernardis - Printing
Re: Storing abs and pla between prints - 11 years ago
QuoteMrDoctorDIV I've never "stored" my filament. I've had PLA out in the open for a year and a half and never a change per filament. My printer has been what's changed, as it no longer holds a tuning and doesn't even get fully tuned anymore. I haven't had a flat wall for a few months. The PLA hasn't changed how it's printed since the start. I've never had them inside a package beyond taking themby jbernardis - General
Re: I am Switching from ABS to PLA for tall items - 11 years ago
I love printing in PLA - I find it much more forgiving. The ONLY gripe I have is it's low melting point. That makes it useful for printing, but limits where the final object can be used. The only time I print in ABS is when the part needs to withstand higher temps.by jbernardis - General
Re: Bed not heating up - 11 years ago
Make sure whatever PSU you get can deliver ~20Amps at 12V. You could probably get by with less amperage, but it's good to have a buffer.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Slic3r and REPetier - 11 years ago
I didn't notice that before. The output clearly shows a layer height of 0. That is most assuredly going to cause an issue.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Re: Strange PCU & RAMPS Behavior - 11 years ago
A 16 amp power supply, especially an old one, is marginal for a reprap. I would think that as the current draw approaches the limit of the power supply that problems would start to show up. You should have a bit of a buffer in there. My printers are both powered by 30 amp power supplies, but I wouldn't go below 20. Also, the 11 amp power connection powers the heated bed only. I don't know whby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Hot end temperature variation when bed is also on - 11 years ago
It's what I would do, but I'm sure there are others who would do a but more diagnosis first.by jbernardis - Controllers
Re: Hot end temperature variation when bed is also on - 11 years ago
I'm not sure what you mean about the orange diodes. You mean the flat rectangular things near the power connection? Those are resettable fuses, not diodes. If you blew a fuse, there's no telling what else may have been damaged. Was it the larger of the 2? If so, that's the hot bed circuit, and perhaps the damage might be limited to the MOSFET controlling the bed. It's really hard to say witby jbernardis - Controllers
Re: Direct Drive extruder with 3mm filament? - 11 years ago
Thanks If I hadn't just purchased 2 3mm J-Heads, I'd probably switch the new printer to 1.75. I have a couple of PG35 geared steppers. Maybe I'll design the extruders around those.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: problem with printing layers - 11 years ago
That's a loss of steps. Either something mechanical is blocking the movement of your X/Y axes, or you don't have your stepper drivers properly calibrated. The stepper drivers have a small trimpot on them that needs to be set correctly. Too low and you lose steps, too high and things overheat. There may be a better procedure, but I do mine by trial and error. I usually start my turning thenby jbernardis - Printing
Direct Drive extruder with 3mm filament? - 11 years ago
I am designing a new printer that I would like to have dual extruders. All my hot ends and filament are 3mm, so I would like to stay with that size. I want to minimize my X carriage footprint but I do not wish to use a bowden setup - I tried it once already and it did not work well for me. I was thinking that to minimize the footprint I would like to go with a direct drive extruder. Everythiby jbernardis - Reprappers
Re: Manual controller for a 3D printer???? - 11 years ago
You might also look at this. I haven't built this myself, but I'm very interested in doing so.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics