well not exactly, you would still be limited by max extrusion speed, however the infill would be say .3mm layer height and the perimeters would be .1mm, so assuming no extrusion bottleneck you could print the infill 3 times faster than the perimeters.by aduy - General
wow those look amazing. i had stopped printing nylon because it was giving me headaches, but now that ive got my carbon filtration setup on my rig ill give it a go again, the stuff is dirt cheap and the pieces that actually came out looked amazing.by aduy - Reprappers
QuoteDaveS (actually, it does matter if you think about it, because the hot bit has to be hot, so you don't want to overly cool the filament itself so that it arrives at the hot bit at -180, making the job of the hot bit harder) ah see youve discovered something that water cooling can do that air cooling simply cannot. with water cooling you can actually control the temperature of the filament bby aduy - General
ok well it must not have been the issue that i had, I would just replace it to be safe with the 30 amp supply.by aduy - General
nice, i have nothing against air cooled hot ends, i just prefer water cooling, because I feel i can control the hot end better with it. also i believe some of the proponents to water cooling say it lighter than air cooling, I have a hard time believing that for one hot end, but when you have 4 hot ends then yes it can be quite a bit lighter, if each hot end has its own fan and heatsink. accordingby aduy - General
QuoteDirty Steve I run 5 day ABS prints with a build chamber without any problems with air cooling. 25mm fan directed across my PEEK barrier. im not sure what the specs of your printer are but when im doing a 12x12x12" print I need to run the chamber above 80c, but whatever works for you. all i can say is that the watercooling works and it works flawlessly.by aduy - General
ive had both water cooled and air cooled, the air cooled works fine if you are not using a heated build chamber. however as soon as you heat the build chamber the water cooling comes in handy, because you can control the temperature of the transition zone separate from the build chamber. also running the water cooler allows you to cool the transition below the temperature of the environment.by aduy - General
you can set the infill as a multiple of the perimeter extrusionby aduy - General
yeah ive used them before. basically the plastic just builds up under the nozzle so its like you are just extruding really fast, but the speed of the head is still slow.by aduy - Reprappers
if by high quality you mean that it doesnt jam, then yes you are succesful, however i think that the little square column on the last print probably came out really melty. and also you shouldnt need watercooling ust to run abs, its mostly for pla plastic which is a bit more tricky to print.by aduy - General
I would order the 30 amp one if you think it was because of the fuse. whats your setup? heated bed?by aduy - General
slicer has an option for doing different layer heights for infill and perimeters. set your perimeter extrusion width at .35mm, set the infill extrusion width as high as your machine will allow. set the layer height to 0.1, then set in the infill settings set it to infill every 3 layers. set the outer perimeter speed slow and the inner perimeters at a regular speed. then set your infill as fast asby aduy - Reprappers
im working on making an extruder that uses only two stepper and n outputs. one stepper will drive the filament the other will move the idlers into place and select the filament. it will be laser cuttable or 3d printable. i think this method is the best because it will work on any board that can use 5 steppers. it could even use a strong servo to move the idlers if you dont want to use a second stby aduy - General
I had a similar thing happen on my 30amp supply, the thermal fuse blew i believe, what i found after taking it apart was that i had inadvertently loosened the screw that held the mosfet onto their heatsink when i was fiddling around with it, and when i had previously screwed it back together the clamp did not engage the mosfet and so they overheated and blew the thermal fuse eventually. so basicaby aduy - General
im not sure if this has been brought up yet but logically a delta printer would be one of the ideal setups for hexagonal infill, because of the way the axis' are configured. also a sort of interesting though ive had is if you had a delta setup, and you link all three carriages together with one belt, you only need two motors to control the x and y position of the head, and the head always remaiby aduy - General
oh I see, you are talking about the tube that runs to the heat sink. so this blower is the kind of thing i was talking about. yes you are right that if you make the hole on the end of the blower a small diameter, the airflow will suffer. Correct me if im wrong, would adding a large chamber in between the tube and the blower outlet allow a buffer for the pressure to build up, and increase the airby aduy - General
well you can make the width of the channels as large as you want.by aduy - General
I would like to see a heatsink that is in a helical shape, you would then put a thin metal sleeve over it, with an air inlet at the bottom and a large hole at the top. instead of using a fan you would use a blower fan connected to a tube that you would run to the hot end like a bowden tube, and connect the other end to the inlet. this would very effectively cool the heatsink and concentrate the cby aduy - General
You could test the smoothness of your printer by doing this attach a pen to your print head, level the z axis so then pen can draw onto a sheet of paper that will be attached to the print bed. make a pattern for the printer to sketch out, one continious smooth curved line. Use a 2d printer with a high dpi and print out a scale image of the sketch. place the paper under the pen at the beginnby aduy - Reprappers
It really depends on how precise you bed leveling, linear rails, and extrusion is, ive gone as low as 0.05mm before, im sure you can go lower, however, if you do go lower, measure the width of your extrusion then set the extrusion width to that in your slicer, this will make your print less likely to warp and do other wierd things because of the low layer height.by aduy - Reprappers
its all laser cut thats why its so cheap and uses basically all of the least expensive electronics and hot end.by aduy - General
well id like to at least give one a try before making an assumption that it will corrode so quickly.by aduy - General
what would corrode the copper? this company uses an all copper hot end, although they may not really know that much about 3d printing itself, the extruder they have designed seems like it grips very well, although it is overpriced and overengineered in my opinion. I like the idea of using a couple of spur gears to feed the filament through though, if you have ever gotten a piece of clothing cauby aduy - General
I recently ordered one of the kraken hot ends for my printer. Ive already got a watercooled hot end, however ive actually found that I cannot extrude more than 6mm/s of 1.75mm abs filament without going above 245c, the brass nozzle just does not transfer enough heat to the filament to melt it quickly enough. so originally the hot end came with aluminum nozzles, but I found that after some use thby aduy - General
I agree, I was just stating a scenario where the variables were controlled.by aduy - Reprappers
I would like to see a 3d scanner that just uses a laser line or two along with a camera that can be mounted onto the print head. maybe even add a servo to rotate the camera so it could get all angles. it would just need to be able to send gcodes to the printer and and recieve input from the webcam.by aduy - General
I believe someone was saying that as low as 20 steps per mm it was hard to tell the difference, this was using gt2 2mm belt and 20 tooth pulleys, with only 4x micro-stepping. 4x micro-stepping with a 20 tooth wheel will be more accurate than 16x micro-stepping and an 80 tooth wheel, however the movements on the 80 tooth wheel will be smoother because the change in angle will be smaller with the16by aduy - Reprappers
You can always water cool the motors.by aduy - General
I etched a 12" pcb with two sets of 5mm traces. if you can get 5mm electrical tape its quite easy to make at home, however I used a toner transfer.by aduy - General