At the time of writing, there's four on Amazon UK, ranging from £269 to £399 - but they all look the same. Only the £399 one has Prime eligibility, and that's the one I bought yesterday for £300. Seems to be labelled 'Comgrow', so wondering if it was such a great deal after all.by marcosscriven - General
Moved to another printer, and kept this part: Usually sell stuff on eBay, but this is quite specialised and I can't see any past auctions for it. I can sell bundled with a BeagleBone Black (no PSU, as I was powering this with a PC PSU).by marcosscriven - For Sale
Ahh... thanks Chris, that's exactly what I was looking for. Not sure how I failed quite so epically on my Googling attempts!by marcosscriven - Mendel90
Thanks - cool idea. So you just put the spool on the floor with these?by marcosscriven - Mendel90
Having changed to a controller with 6 steppers, I have the option to run the pair of z-motors in three ways: 1) In series (per the original kti) 2) In parallel 3) One in slave mode on a separate stepper I used Nophead's kit from a few years ago, where the manual described wiring the motors in serial. So far as I know that's because being in serial uses less current (but requires a higher voltby marcosscriven - Mendel90
I have a spool that's 180mm in diameter, with 80mm between the outer disks. The Mendel90 I have from Nophead's kit requires one with at least 220mm diamter, and 90mm between the disks. Does anyone have any smart ideas to adapt it? I've tried just leaving it on the ground next to the printer, but the filament is quite tightly wound and seems to get more twisted as the filament is fed in.by marcosscriven - Mendel90
I've swapped out the Melzi for a Replicape, so have this spare now.by marcosscriven - Mendel90
I've just moved to using a Replicape, and thus have a Melzi 2.0 'eBay hybrid' board spare and in perfect working order. Thought I'd try here first, but check my profile on eBay The hybrid is specified here: - it has the 2.0 MCU, but 1.0 stepper controller.by marcosscriven - For Sale
I've ordered a Replicape recently (having finally got tired of either slow SD card uploads, or physically switching in the SD card and worrying it might eventually break the socket). It's able to control more than one extruder, so considering giving it a go. Has anyone made a dual-extruder x-carriage for the Mendel90? Either bowden or direct drive?by marcosscriven - Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow Hi, When Marlin-1.1.0 is released I will produce another branch for the Mendel90. The problem in doing this is that Arduino-1.0.x will not build the Marlin-1.0.x and later code but Marlin-1.1.0 will require Arduino-1.6.8 or later. This means that I will have to transition to a newer Arduino and support of the old fork will likely cease. I am still using my Mendel90 but much ofby marcosscriven - Mendel90
Does any geometry/maths pro here know how his could actually work? If you define parts of a mesh as splines (be they Bezier, NURBS or whatever) can you slice them to get a description of the resulting curves. How would one then work out the infill? Currently slicers use polygon offset libraries - could you similarly work out the 'offset' of a curve, or would you have to convert it into a polby marcosscriven - General
That looks good. Only thing I find limiting about any of these 'remote' options though (including just plugging in a Raspberry Pi), is you're still limited by the serial baud rate - it's takes several minutes just to upload a few MB of gcode.by marcosscriven - Controllers
Any chance of a video/recording? That would be really cool to hear!by marcosscriven - RAMPS Electronics
Looking at the cost of connectors I see what you mean - it's amazing you can buy a few headers and it'll outweigh the cost of an MCU... (although of course I appreciate the economies of ICs). Perhaps then instead of having single physical design, have at least single core schematic, with the different physical layouts/extras depending on the board. I agree totally about the issue of connectorsby marcosscriven - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks Ralph for that link - gave me the confidence to open it up - I left it for a few hours and made sure the capacitors (including the 'X' ones mentioned) were discharged. The only thing I could find loose was a grounding wire from the socket/on-off switch assembly to the PSU PCB. Everything else seemed secure. I removed a little dust, put it back together, switched on, and no matter how muby marcosscriven - Mendel90
I'm going to try the XBOX 203W route - chiefly because you can also get female sockets , allowing me to unplug the printer easily. Is it worth me sending back my old one for post mortem? Poor thing only lasted seven months!by marcosscriven - Mendel90
On second thoughts, probably worth me spending £20/£30 rather than blowing myself up with a capacitor. Would this do? It's £30 inc VAT with free delivery. It's the cheapest one I could find on Amazon that didn't have at least one review saying it had blown up. I can't find any specs as to its rating on each rail though. EDIT: I quite like the idea of a salvaged server PSU from ebay: http://rby marcosscriven - Mendel90
Here's a pic of the back of the PSU - the bottom of the picture is towards the floor, and to the left is the fan You can just about see on the lower left the T-shaped bracket I mentioned above: "Looking through the PSU grill at the back, I can see two large shiny T-shaped bits (perhaps simple heat sinks). As the PSU is on it's side, the top one is at right angles, but the bottom one looks as iby marcosscriven - Mendel90
Ok... so after all that, I rechecked absolutely all the connections (both on the Melzi, and at each of the motors/switches etc). No stray wires, all withstood a little tug without coming out. I removed the second dummy load (so back to the original config), powered up, then tried something simple... tapped the PSU with my hand. Lo-and-behold, most of the times I tapped, I saw the dip - I'm pretby marcosscriven - Mendel90
Sorry - seems I misused the the description 'cut out' then.. I've never had to reset the PSU - it appears to just stop very briefly and start again. (Sorry to have caused any confusion !) I did have the raspberry pi powered across the 5V dummy resistor - and when the 'blip' (or whatever you call it?) happened, it would reboot. To rule that out I switched backed to powering the RPi independently.by marcosscriven - Mendel90
One other thing I just tried - instead of running a print, I just repeatedly ran G28 (so both bed and hot end are off). 5V rail never went over 5.17V, and after a few times the PSU dropped out. It's almost imperceptible the time the PSU goes off - the PSU fan barely slows, and the only way I know it's switched off is the blip down to 0 or on the multimeter.by marcosscriven - Mendel90
Doh - I misunderstood load to be resistance. I just now tried in parallel (and double checked with the meter the resistance is 5 Ohms). With that setup, my voltages on the 5V rails were: Starts at 5.12V (compared to 5.15V without the extra resistor in parallel) Bed starts to heat up: 5.24V (compared to 5.26V) Motor starts to move to home position: 5.36V and cuts out (compared with 5.37) So itby marcosscriven - Mendel90
I just added a 10R 10W resistor in series with the existing gold 10R, and it hasn't made a difference unfortunately. All it's done is move the lower extreme of the 12V rail to 11.95V, rather than 12.05V. It didn't affect the max of the 5V rail much either - only 0.02V less, at 5.35V. The first attempt to print failed right away, and the second attempt failed just as it was finishing the first lby marcosscriven - Mendel90
Thanks for responses. I checked the 5V and 3.3V rails. On 5V: Starts at 5.15V Bed starts to heat up: 5.26V Motor starts to move to home position: 5.37V and cuts out I did this twice, and the figures were the same. I'm not sure how accurate the last measurement is, because the multimeter is still changing as the PSU cuts out. 3.3V rail was rock solid at 3.408V the whole way through. So the quby marcosscriven - Mendel90
I just did some basic measurements on my multimeter across the two terminal on the main power block: - 12.45v when the machine is switched on and idle - 12.35v when the machine homes - 12.05v when the bed/hot end start to heat up (bed 60, hot end 220) At that point the head starts to move to X0, Y0, Z0.05 as the hot end heats up. I don't see the voltage drop below the 12.05v mentioned abovby marcosscriven - Mendel90
One other thing I just noticed: Looking through the PSU grill at the back, I can see two large shiny T-shaped bits (perhaps simple heat sinks). As the PSU is on it's side, the top one is at right angles, but the bottom one looks as if it's sagging about 10 degrees. I've never looked before so I don't know if that's normal. Maybe something has dislodged? I can't really imagine there's somethingby marcosscriven - Mendel90
After leaving the PSU off over night, I tried again this morning (with the added benefit of ruling out the room being too hot). This time it stopped even before it made it to its starting position (which is at least good in the sense I didn't waste any filament) You mention this is probably due to a mains voltage drop or brownout, but I've not noticed any dimming of lights in the house. The elby marcosscriven - Mendel90
You'll never forget your first android!by marcosscriven - Mendel90
After months of operation without incident, my Mendel90 has just started to stop suddenly. I am printing from sd card, so it's definitely not a connection issue. At the moment it lasts between 1 to 15 minutes before just cutting out and stopping dead. It looks like the power drops out for less than a second, and the Raspberry Pi I have attached resets. The electronics is Melzi/PSU I got with tby marcosscriven - Mendel90
Just to add - here's the kind of thing I thought you could solder the generic RAMPS board to: For BeagleBone : For Arduino : (can't find a Due one specifically, but would imagine something similar) I'm sure both could be brought down in cost in bulk too.by marcosscriven - RAMPS Electronics