To rule out the simple things, I would ensure that the wiring is all the same (assuming you have the same motors). Swap the motors between X and Y, and also swap the drivers between X and Y just to try and rule out any defective motors/drivers. Remember to ALWAYS have the power disconnected when hooking up or removing the stepper motors from the drivers. You can and will fry the driver if youby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Documentation I am not aware of, but the problem is there is no "official document" If you search the forums, or just do a normal google search for "marlin mintemp triggered" you soon discover it is a problem with the thermistor not behing hooked up (the other issue is maxtemp triggered, which is a short circuit). The problem is, there are tons of different hot ends, different hardware, differeby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
What size of cables did you have previously (and what size now?) If you have a heated bed, you should use at least ("most") 18AWG, and I would suggest something a bit larger in case you want to change to a 24v power supply in the future. The problem sounds like an endstop issue, check your endstop hookup and your firmware configuration for the endstop. If it moves only in one direction, it isby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Which is precisely why I recommend the test firmware first Now you know your printer would move, if it could! This is the case I mentioned, "Is there something wrong with your hot end thermistor, such that it cannot detect the current temp and has shutoff via the built in safety switch?" You have triggered the built in safety switch, since marlin can't detect the temperature of your hotendby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Hi, It looks like you have a number of problems going on here. I don't think it is related to temperature. Are you printing with ABS or PLA? Your temperatures are good for ABS, so I will assume you are using ABS. Here are my suggestions based on your pictures. Sticking issue: It looks like your Z=0 is too high off the bed. The first layer should squish down into the bed and stick to it rby mitchese - Printing
I found the best way to calibrate your extruder steps is to first do the math as bravach suggests, then finally follow triffid hunter's calibration guide here. This will jump you to the extruder calibration section, but the whole document is gold and worth going through.by mitchese - Printing
Glad to hear you got it working! I'll have to remember that the test program doesn't work with certain versions of Arduino. As for the endstops, I just answered a very similar question in the mendelmax mailing list, I personally don't use them: I used to have endstops and Triffid suggested going without them.... man do I ever not miss them! The endstops are there to tell your printer where 0by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Amperage cant be too much in the direction you are talking. Amperage is a measure of what the device uses - if you hook a 10a thing up to a 1a source, you will damage the source. If you hook a 1a device up to a 1000a source, you paid too much for your source and your device will use a fraction of what the source can produce. The device will be very happy. If the analogy helps, think of a carby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
The real program depends on what you want to use, you have choices! I use Marlin A few people I know use Repetierhost A complete list isby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
That should work as long as your computer power supply is rated for enough amps. Depending on the gauge of wire on your power supply, I would hook both grounds up, though this is unnecessary if the wire gauge is large enough. With a computer power supply you will also need to signal it to turn on. This is done by taking the (usually) green wire from the motherboard connector, and hooking it upby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
It sounds as if the boards are coming with the "test" firmware on them, rather than the actual Marlin/Sprinter/Repetier firmware, which I think is a great idea. First off, the test firmware is available here: What this firmware does, as long as the arduino has power, it will move your Axes back and forward a bit, exactly as everyone has described. This shows your wiring and power is workingby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Hmm this one's a toughy You are corect, no m80/m81 support. Are you somehow able to test the power supply under load that is not RAMPS? My current guess is either a bad power supply or short in the RAMPS (though I would imagine a short would cause your multimeter to read zero instantly, and not drop off) If you (disconnect the power) then remove the stepper drivers, same problem still?by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
What exactly are you using for a power supply? Is it a standard computer power supply (ATX) or a special "hobby" power supply with only 12v out? If it's a standard computer one, what exactly is hooked up to your printer? Is it just one of the four-pin red-black-black-yellow connectors (of which black/yellow are attached), or is it the gigantic motherboard one with 24ish wires going into it?by mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
I have had great luck with Tesa's blue tape, and without acetone. My current run I got from amazon (though it appears no longer available): Oddly enough I can't find any four digit number on it specifying which tape it is. The UPC is 4-042448-856487, roll is 25mx30mm (though I would buy a fatter roll next time). The front also has a number 05259-00001, perhaps it is 5259?? If I recall corby mitchese - Printing
It looks like you are missing steps on the Y axis. Does it do this on every print, or just "complicated prints" (if you print a calibration cube, does it work?) In any case, you may want to try increasing the current to your Y stepper motor, and check that the table moves freely. If it is happening on complicated prints, try turning down your acceleration and xy jerk setting. If you are usingby mitchese - Printing
While I don't exactly understand what goes on in the background with the relationship between voltage, current, reisistance (ok Ohm's law here, but how it applies to steppers has been a mystery) I can confirm that I am running my setup successfully without a problem and without much heat. My motors are model 42BYGHW811, which are 2.5A and 3.1 volts. I am running them at 24v; I have never measurby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
It depends on what exactly you mean by the pin is used for signal only. The relay should have two power sources, one 5v for the relay's on/off power and one "up to 250v" for the actual switched load. I think this is what you meant. If your board is more than a relay -- that is a relay mounted on a circuit board with a few electronics around it, then you are safe. If you were to hook just theby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Ok that suprises me! Next question, if you turn your heated bed or hot end on, do the LEDs light up in the corner of RAMPS board to indicate the hot end/bed is on? The next suspicion is a blown fuse, though it should be self resetting. If you have a multimeter, then I would test the connections across the end of the RAMPS. Easier than the confusing subway map is the schematic below. For poby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
It sounds as if your higher voltage section of ramps (the 12v/24v part) is not working. RAMPS when powered only via USB will behave exactly as you describe - everything appears to work, but nothing heats/moves. I would start by checking your power supply. Is voltage reaching the inputs on the RAMPS board. -sean Edit - I doubt your RAMPS shield is fried, since it is very modular in design. Iby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Given that the RAMPS breakout board is basically a "dumb pin expander", what exactly would you be risking? The voltages with which the arduino works are low enough that it should work or not work, without risking anything. If you were paranoid, maybe remove your stepper drivers from ramps and install one, but I can't see how a faulty arduino could harm RAMPS at all. Now a faulty ramps feedingby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
RAMPS 1.3 and 1.4 are the same in terms of the test program, which should work on both. If you can't compile and upload the test code, I don't understand how you are able to compile and upload the actual code, since it is essentially the same thing, only more complicated. Below requires a change to Configuration.h before uploading it, so I would expect you will run into the same problem tryingby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
If anyone is from one of the countries listed as "we dont ship to here", you can find the same item, possibly a bit more expensive to your country. For example, Germany was blacklisted in the original item... but here it is, same seller shipping to germany (but for US$20 including shipping, instead of 17) One is ordered tooby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Please try the test firmware I posted before, as it does not care about endstops or temperatures. With the test firmware you can get everything moving, and *then* worry about your endstops and temperature calibrationby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
In order to rule out firmware issues, I would give the RAMPS test firmware a try: Once on your arduino, this does not require your computer to command the movements, it simply drives your axes back and fourth a cm or so until it is powered down. This will help rule out any problems software-wise. No need to try the full firmware until the test one works! Check that your ATX power supply isby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
It might be easier if you tried the RAMPS 1.4 test firmware: After this is uploaded to your RAMPS board, it does not require a connection to your computer (other than for power). Using this will help rule out any software issues, since the actual firmwares will shut down completely if there is a problem with temperature detection issue with your hot end (safety feature). All this firmware doby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
Can you be a bit more specific? I assume you mean the heat sink attached to your extruder stepper driver. Which electronics and firmware do you have? If you set your nozzle temperature and try to extrude, does it move at all? Without a heatsink, the driver should have an automatic thermal cutoff which will stop the extruder when the driver overheats - but only for a few seconds until it coolsby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics
I had exactly the same problem with the new version of slic3r, and here's how you can use it. 1. Setup a profile or two in each tab. For example, in the "Print Settings" I have profiles for "PLA - Fast,Weak" and "PLA - Slow,Full" (with 100mm/s 40% infill and 40mm/s 95% infill respectively). Under Filament I have an ABS and PLA profile, and printer settings I have a single profile called my priby mitchese - RAMPS Electronics