Thanks. I actually found there is a mirror function in openscad, so that is working perfectly for me.by AVRkire - General
I am trying to mirror a print. I am using slic3r or KSSlicer, and either repetier or pronterface. I don't see any way to mirror in any of those. My design is in openscad, so if there is even a way to do it there it would be great too. Thanks!by AVRkire - General
Has anyone ever built a printer using servos instead of steppers ? I'm wondering why steppers are the norm over servos. I would think good quality servos with positioning capability would have some advantages over steppers, but I don't really know enough about steppers to understand their advantages over servos.by AVRkire - General
I print parts often that need to be tapped. I print the hole to be tapped slightly smaller than the desired final tapped hole. It works pretty well, but the threads cannot handle a lot at all, they are pretty brittle. I do it more for prototyping than actual parts.by AVRkire - General
I have been running a print for about 6 hours, and I have 2 hours left. I believe I will run out of filament on my current roll in about 1 hour. Is there anyway to put in a new roll of filament mid print? I have the same color, from the same source so it should be exactly the same, just not sure how to do it without ruining my print, and I really don't want to lose 7 hours worth of printing.by AVRkire - General
I don't think that STL files can have multiple colors. I remember reading that someone was coming up with a new type of STL file that could have colors. Even if you did, that would only be have the challenge, the slicer program would have to be able to take those multiple colors and translate it to the exturder in the gCodeby AVRkire - General
I have seen a few videos of 3d DLP printers, and the results look really nice. I did some searching, but I cannot find much info on how these actually work. I know they are curing resin, but I don't understand much else. Does anyone know of any sites or places where I can learn more about the technology and how it works? I am very curious to know how realistic it is to build one.by AVRkire - General
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I had delaminating on lager prints, until I > changed filament supplier. What a difference! > > Now my ABS doesn't detach from the bed anymore, > even the tiniest prints works fine without a brim, > and delaminating on high prints doesn't happen > either. > > So, filament quality also influenceby AVRkire - Printing
Nophead. If I understand banding correctly, that would be caused by using an incorrect layer height based on the Z axis threaded rod. My layer height is set to 0.2 in the pics above, and I am using a 8mm normal pitch threaded rod, so I was under the impression that I can use any multpile of .1 for my layer heights? I ran another one yesterday, at 0.3 layer height, and at a much slower print spby AVRkire - Printing
I actually tired that, and unfortunately when I did that my filament ended up slipping in the hobbed bolt and the filament stopped feeding and print failed. I will try this again, thanks for the feedback.by AVRkire - Printing
I kind of figured that. I was hoping slower speed or something like that may help, but it does not seem to. I think a enclosure is going to be really tough on my mendelmax. I may see if I can give heat lamps a shot. Are there any pictures of heat lamps being implemented that anyone knows of?by AVRkire - Printing
I am noticing that every time I print something taller, say above 30 or 40mm, I am getting layer separation. I am printing with ABS, heated bed at 110. I never have the problem on shorter prints, even if they are wide. Here are some pics. Anyone have any ideas of what I can do to fix this?by AVRkire - Printing
Whenndealing,with CNC, how is the gcode generated? Does mach3 do it, or are there slicing programs formcnc like there are for printers?by AVRkire - General
I am not sure if this is an electronics or mechanics question. Is it possible to use 4 steppers for one axis (z)? I would have to splice 2 and 2 to use with Ramps given only 2 z inputs, but would this work? Any downsides? My reasoning for wanting to do this is for balance rather than for torque/power. I am finding that with a larger bed, no matter what I do I cannot seem to get it balancingby AVRkire - Mechanics
This is interesting. I actually have bought a few things from them, some have been great, some have flat out sucked. I was really intrigued by the aluminatus, and strongly considered buying one. At the end of the day I just thought it was too much money, and was nervous by the few things I bought from them that sucked. I am sorry to hear some people are unhappy with them, these are very expensby AVRkire - General
waitaki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Seems like the Pololu's need adjusting. That makes sense, are there any guides on how to adjust them? Thanks!by AVRkire - RAMPS Electronics
Well, I tried connecting the 11amp inputs as well. Same thing, a light buzz on the motors, but no turn, even with no torque at all. Any ideas?by AVRkire - RAMPS Electronics
I'm building a new printer and I really want to test out just my z axis, as that is the only thing ready. I'm going to use 2 PSUs, a 24 v for the bed heater, and 12v for the rest. I don't have my 24v heater yet, so I only hooked up my 5amp input connections to Ramps. My understanding was that the 11 amp input was only used for the heaters. I've uploaded Marlin, and connected everything to Proby AVRkire - RAMPS Electronics
Never mind, I just through some old heatbed's therms on my Ramps board and got it working. Sorry for the momentary dumbness.by AVRkire - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hey everyone, I am working on a new printer, and all I have so far is my z axis, no extruder, no therms, nothing. I have hooked up my PSU, hooked up my RAMPS 1.4, flashed Marlin on my Ramps as was on my current printer, except I tweaked the Z steps accordingly. I connected to both repeater, and also pronterface, but when I try to move my z axis up or down I get the following error: < 3:53:by AVRkire - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Mogal Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My X axis has been inverted since day one... > No matter what I have done, I CAN NOT get the DIR > to change. > (all other axis are correct) > > My prints face the back of the machine instead of > the front... > > I've tried flipping both settings you posted and > wires to the steppers... no chaby AVRkire - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hey everyone, been printing for a few months now, and my latest print showed that my y is inverted, or my x is depending on how you look at it. I went into Marlin firmware that I have installed and saw two possibilities: #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false OR #define X_HOMEby AVRkire - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When I switched I was amazed that it improved it > so much. I had always thought my issues were > hardware and to find out it was software was both > satisfying and annoying. Yup, I am shocked. Been using KSS for about a week now, and for the MOST part, huge difference in print reliability. I have had a few veby AVRkire - Printing
Sublime, Thanks for your help. I tried switching over to KSS and it seems to be much, much better. I am not quite sure why, I probably have a setting or something off, but I am not getting the extra extrusion in KSS. I kind of like it a bit better than slic3r as well. Thanks again for working with me on this, much appreciated.by AVRkire - Printing
Komb, yes, I have verified my filament width several times, it's very consistent at 2.91-2.92 Sublime, thanks, but I'm being dense and do not quite follow you when you say set perimeters to 1. Is that 1mm or 100%? Thanks!by AVRkire - Printing
So I checked my z axis, it's still right on the money, 1 sheet of paper off the bed everywhere. I ran a single wall calibration test. The STL says 0.5mm, however the gcode from slic3r is showing: perimeters extrusion width = 0.37mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.37mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.37mm ; top infill extrusion width = 0.37mm ; support material extrusion width = 0.37mm ; firstby AVRkire - Printing
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The only way you can tell if it is truly over > extruding is to do a single wall test part (or > 100% infill cube and let it go for a lot of > layers). > > Also if you have not let it go past the first > layer it could be a homing issue. > Is it your carriage has been overheated and the > hotend iby AVRkire - Printing
So now I am REALLY confused. This am I decided to try a few prints, using slic3r again, same settings I have been using successfully PRIOR to trying the big print. These were much smaller prints, that I have printed very successfully. THey all had way too much plastic extruded, much like the big print that started this thread, so it was not related to the size of the thread. I double checkedby AVRkire - Printing
foshon Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Why did you stop it? I have had large prints with > VERY funky first layers come out completely usable > in the end. As you said this is the machines first > large print. Why not let her go and see what > happens? I stopped because the nozzle was scraping so hard against the blobs that it was very loud, and tby AVRkire - Printing