So I just heated up my bed to print temp and checked my bed in all directions with a straight edge. Everything is perfectly flat. Print stuck fine, I took pics about an hour after I stopped the print, and it had already started pealing, but stuck great for the print. Really at a loss here.by AVRkire - Printing
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would think the problem is your bed is warped > and the edges are being squished a little while > the center is not being pushed down enough. Try > putting a straight edge across it (at temperature) > and see if the middle is higher or lower then the > sides. It could also be the temperature is not > eby AVRkire - Printing
Jan, Thanks much! This makes a lot of sense. I actually ran this very slow, or at least I think it was very slow: Perimeters: 40 small perim: 25 extern perim:25 infill: 60 solid infill: 50 top solid infill: 40 First level speed 50% Would you recommend even slower than this? Also, could lowering the temp help here?by AVRkire - Printing
So my printer has been running very well lately on all prints. I have my e calibration perfectly, I double checked it with 30 and 50mm of extrusion and measured it perfectly. I have double checked my measurements of my filament, and it is a very consistent and accurate 2.9 - 2.92 Other prints before and after that were smaller were working perfectly, very accurate. So when I tried to do thisby AVRkire - Printing
Agree, lulBot is the best of the 3d printer companies for everything. Best products, service and support by far.by AVRkire - General
> Dont forget that they also calibrate the machine > so for the most part you can print right away. > The only thing I had to do with my AO-101 was > remove the shipping stops, double check to make > sure end stops worked, add the filament, check bed > level and adjust the z-height with the height > adjuster. Then print, 1st print worked perfectly. This can not be ignoresby AVRkire - General
So I did some reading up on SSR and I THINK I understand now. The idea would be to use the SSR as a switch to use the output from the RAMPS lower voltage as a switch to turn on and off the 110v heater. I'm assuming I would need to use a SPDT relay for this and just have on and off. What I'm not quite clear on is the way I would connect this. I suppose I would send the outputs ( + and -) fromby AVRkire - Controllers
akhlut Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > At that size you should seriously consider running > the heated bed off of AC. > > > > > > > All you need is an SSR and a heatsink for it. > They're pretty cheap on amazon. > > I drive 12x12 and 9x9 heated beds that way now > with zero issues. Thanks, I know you are right, I'mby AVRkire - Controllers
All, I had asked some questions about non integrated heaters, and I think it is a bit too advanced for me right now. I am trying to make a printer with a 500mm x 500mm print area, that can print ABS. So obviously I need some serious heat for the bed. Here is what I am thinking, and I wanted to see if I could get some feedback before I buy everything to do this. My plan is to use two heaters:by AVRkire - Controllers
Thanks guys. couple of things. I mixed up some new ABS glue, but used a much higher ratio of ABS, and now I am sticking properly at the same temps. Next time my PET tape wears out, I am going to try the PVA to see if I can use that instead of the Glass, or I suppose I could just flip my glass over and try that. I am curious to try it. Thanks for the help, this community is really amazing.by AVRkire - Printing
tmahring Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 200 seems a bit low to me, I'm printing ABS at 230 > and it sticks pretty well (using kapton tape on > 110°C heatpad with no glue) Thanks, does the ABS flow out the nozzle pretty freely at that temp even without being extruded? My concern is that these thermsitors are not all that reliable, and mine registeringby AVRkire - Printing
I had my printer working really well, than I broke my glass, and modified a bunch of things inculding my heat bed and some other things. Now I have it back together, and I am having a lot of trouble sticking to the bed. I have all my settings the same, I am using PET tape on my glass, I know I am perfectly level. I also use ABS glue on the PET tape. The thing that is weird is it is sticking sby AVRkire - Printing
Wow, awesome! How are you heating that monster of a bed?are you using lead screws for x and y axis?by AVRkire - General
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am wondering if there is anything I can > buy/build that would let me say plug into a 110V > outlet that will allow me to control the > temperature like Ramps does. > > Possible, sure. Get a heating mat for 110V, leave > the thermistor as is and connect the mat to the > RAMPS' MOSFET via a solidby AVRkire - Controllers
Hey everyone, I am wondering if anyone uses a heated bed for ABS (up to around say 110 degrees) for their printer? I ask because I am just having so many problems trying to heat a bigger bed with 12V, and it's all because of the heated bed. I am wondering if there is anything I can buy/build that would let me say plug into a 110V outlet that will allow me to control the temperature like Rampsby AVRkire - Controllers
Thanks again. I'm or exactly sure how to do this calc. Since my PSU is rated at 17amps, is it even possible to go above that? I would think the PSU itself has some type of fuse or breaker? Do I calc all the inputs at the same time, or do I have to figure out how much amperage can be pulled at a given time by say the heat bed, the hot end heater, the motors, fans, etc?by AVRkire - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks lazzymonk. I am not the most electronically savvy, so let me make sure I understand this. I would basically cut the leads of each of the fuses on the Ramps shield, and just make a direct connection with a piece of wire for each fuse? Than, where I wire from my PSU to my Ramps shield input's, put two car fuses inbetween the runs? Assuming this is correct, what volt/amp car fuses wouldby AVRkire - RAMPS Electronics
I had put this on hold for a while, but I really need to go to 24 v, the time it takes to Heath print bed is just killing me. So I bought a 24v PSU, and I also bought something called Taurino from REpRapDiscount, which is basically an Aurdjni Mega beefed up to handle the higher voltages. They told me I can use the standard Ramps shield I am using now, but my concern is the fuses. Can anyone rby AVRkire - RAMPS Electronics
Had not really thought of that, but I don't see why not.i will give it a shot.thanks!by AVRkire - Mechanics
I'm trying to build a printer with parts I have on hand. I have a nema 23 stepper with an 8mm shaft and my shaft coupler is for a 6.35mm shaft. I really don't feel like waiting 3 weeks to get a new coupler from China, so I'm wondering how realistic it would be to file down the end of my shaft from 8 down to 6.35 to use my on hand coupler? My biggest concern is, if I file it unevenly, will it hby AVRkire - Mechanics
I have been thinking about upgrading to 0.9 steppers from my 1.8 steppers in hopes to gain accuracy. Can anyone tells me 1) if this will in fact gain accuracy, and 2) are there any downsides to going with 0.9 instead of 1.8? Thanks.by AVRkire - General
For those using diluted Elmer's glue, what ratio do you guys use of water to glue?by AVRkire - General
I have read some references to being able to optimize print quality based on selecting a layer height based on your z axis steps. I cannot find any articles on how to do this, can someone either give me a link or explain to me how this is done?by AVRkire - Printing
I am building a 3D printer right now with leadscrews for my x and y axis, but I am using expensive High lead screws, with anti-backlash nuts for this. For example, each revolution of the motor will yield about 25mm or 1" of linear motion. I would not even think of trying this with normal threaded rods, the speed would be painfully slow. This solution will be much more expensive than belts, butby AVRkire - Mechanics
I started a job that is pretty large, I thought it would be done by now, and I have to leave the house. I really don't want to leave it running when I am not home. If I pause this, can I re-start it later and have it work?by AVRkire - Printing
Thanks! I figured it was software related, since it was only happening on certain prints. I had wanted to try Repetier host, and I am not having that problem with the exact same G-code through Repetier host. I actually like repetier better so far, if I go back, I will give the mini mode a shot, thanks for the help!by AVRkire - Printing
Hey everyone, I have a relatively new mendelmax. I have done about 30 or so prints, and my last 3 have had serious issues. I really cannot fully explain it, so I am including a link to two videos from my drop box. Essentially, it will be running perfectly, and all the sudden start completely chugging along, and then repeat back to normal, and back and forth. I am using slic3r and printing fromby AVRkire - Printing
All, I just got this bug: Use of uninitialized value in numeric eq (==) at /Applications/Slic3r/Slic3r.app/Contents/Resources/lib/std/Slic3r/GCode.pm line 354. while trying to Export G code. I am having some weird problems with loading and saving configs as well. Now I cannot export anything at all in slicer .99, and for some reason my .98 won't work. Any ideas?by AVRkire - Slic3r
I know many people are doing two extruders nowadays, and I am not quite seeing why? I know you can use two colors, but the slicing software does not seem sophisticated enough to really do two colors on outer edges at different spots as far as I can tell. It does not seem that it would really make for much faster printing. I just don't get it, can anyone help me understand the advantages?by AVRkire - General