Step 1 Form your needs and questions in actual sentences and paragraphs. None of us have any clue what you just posted.by ShadowRam - General
You're not talking about this stuff? I have it on my repstrap. It's pretty good stuff.by ShadowRam - General
Canadian here, Places I have used, www.fastenal.com for metric hardware (Screws/Nuts/Taps) www.misumi.com for rods and other linear motion hardware www.newark.com for electronic supplyby ShadowRam - General
From what I've been reading about Chinese Printers as of late, Stratasys is shooting themselves in the foot. The Chinese printers are becoming really good quality, and printing right out of the box. People will just buy Chinese printers, if Stratasys attempts to dominate the market this way.by ShadowRam - General
1) I would suspect the steppers wouldn't miss a step. They would have a pretty big mechanical advantage. I probably at first would also set the controller to hold the current. 2) I would just get use some extra pololu's. Just set up the extra 4 on a bread board and wire them all to the same Step/Dir on my RAMPS. My worry is Z-Wobble. I haven't really read up on the cause, and since my currenby ShadowRam - Mechanics
This is a trick someone on reddit told me. This will make PLA stick. Like REALLY stick. 1 - Lay down the Painters Tape. 2 - Rub on a little bit of Rubbing Alcohol on top of the Painters Tape with a cloth. Bring the bed temperature up to 30C or 40C 3 - Print. This will get you started. The parts will really stick well to the bed, and it may be a pain to get the tape off the bottom of your parby ShadowRam - Reprappers
Has anyone tried or has examples of a print bed that utilizes 4-stepper motors? My custom repstrap has a fairly large print area, and while currently I'm only using a small portion of it, with a smaller bed, I'm planning ahead as to how I'm going to achieve the larger bed. Size is approximately 600mmx300mm I was thinking 4 Steppers in each corner, where I could fine tune the leveling of the eby ShadowRam - Mechanics
Is your setup square? Clamp a pen to your carriage. Generate your own G-Code to draw a square. I have a custom machine, but I had a similar problem. http://www.shadowram.ca/?p=153by ShadowRam - General
Joseph Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Their FAQ has the following... > > Could the produced G-Code break my printer? Bad > things could happen, yes. So be careful, check the > G-Code, do not leave the print unattended. We > never broke our printer, but we are extra > careful. > > Maybe its not quite ready for prime time I would thiby ShadowRam - General
How small of a hole can a laser cutter achieve? Can you give it a single blast to create a .35 mm hole? QuoteThe laser burns away a portion of material when it cuts through. This is known as the laser kerf and ranges from 0.08mm – 0.45mm depending on the material type and other conditional factorsby ShadowRam - General
I'm having a problem with my printer. If I'm lucky enough to get it to stick at the beginning, the print goes great, and the part is hard as a rock to get off the build platform. But getting it to stick, and not drag around the first couple centimeters of filament usually means I have to restart the print a couple times until I'm lucky. Example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af8snH15RwQ#t=8mby ShadowRam - General
What's your steps/mm for Z-axis? Is it correct?by ShadowRam - General
Pressure sensor will not work with heated plastic. The plastic will get inside it, and cool, and it will not be heated properly again until the heat propagates through the plastic which will take a long time, rendering the sensor useless. Sensors that would be of use 3D Printing. - Incremental Encoder separate from extruder motor, to measure filament input. - Electrical current sensor on a seby ShadowRam - General
The PRU's I think are meant to be flexible communication chips. Instead of installing a chip for every communication protocol, RS232, Ethernet, USB, I2C, CAN, Firewire, etc, etc, etc. They put in these programmable chips, which you can basically program to act like a controller for any communication protocol. Stepper drivers aren't communicated with via a protocol. It's just 3-boolean signalsby ShadowRam - Controllers
Personally I found that leveling the bed had the greatest effect on adherence. I used a dial indicator to level the bed. I highly recommend it.by ShadowRam - General
Where are you measuring the voltage? If it is at the bed, you may be reading a PWM voltage. Also yes, all semi-conductors have a voltage drop, so there will be a voltage drop across the MOSFET. What are you trying to heat up as well as the MK board? Where are you measuring the temperature?by ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
2 things can cause the Z-Axis being out. your step/mm.. but if you are really confident that it is correct, you may want to enable the 'power holding' for the Z stepper. Usually, when the Z stepper is not being used, the controller removes the power. Depending on your setup, your printer may sag. Just keep power to the Z and it will prevent that from happening.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Type of plastic and temperature? It looks like you may be printing too hot as well.by ShadowRam - General
I recommend installing them like this Heat Sink Install It greatly reduces the chance that your heatsinks may make electrical contact with some of the other surface mounted electronics.by ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
I did the same thing. REPLACE Diode 2 What happens is the 12V shorts out through Diode #2 as the least restive path, and burns it up due to no resistance.by ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
picture of ramps board, and where you are plugging into it.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
rod lubrication would be the LEAST of your worries, You don't want to 3D Print in a high dust environment. Problems sticking to the bed, dust getting in the filament, particles clogging your hotend. It's easier to remove the dust than to build a complicated auto-greaser.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
invest in a dial indicator. It makes a world of difference.by ShadowRam - General
Something of this size you do not want to use Chain, belts or even threaded rod. The distance it too large. Belts/Rods will sag under their own weight. You will have to move the driving mechanisms to the carriage itself, like an overhead crane. OverHead Craneby ShadowRam - General
STL is physical information only. There is no material or color information within the format. You would require a different format. Currently if you want to do multiple colours, I think you have to edit the GCODE by hand.by ShadowRam - General
Lithium grease is good for gears and threads. For any sliding surfaces, i recommend a silicon grease. I find paintball branded grease works good. keeps things slick, but not tacky be sure to wipe down and re-apply once in a while. Any grease will collect dust and dirt over time. Oil usually doesn't keep to an exposed surface, and WD40 is NOT a lubricantby ShadowRam - Reprappers
These are the motors I'm using http://www.shadowram.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/20130409_151000.jpg This is the size of my machine http://i.imgur.com/VB5BTeC.jpg The Pololu A4988's are running this thing at less the half of their max current rating. I have enough torque to move this thing around extremely fast, and it doesn't skip steps. Trust me, any small reprap machine you have going onby ShadowRam - General
I don't think the .ino file is of any use without all the other files.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
What is your micro-stepping set at?by ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics