Quotethe red is on the + of the board NOTHING should be connected to the + on the board. Your switches should be connected to S (Signal) and - (Ground)by ShadowRam - General
The awesome thing about 3D Printing is you can re-purpose just about anything. Print off some parts and then pull it apart. Salvage the Electronics + Anything else, and build a different better type of printer.by ShadowRam - General
Fake as in you can't actually do any of that stuff.by ShadowRam - General
If that's the case, Can you move the axis around by hand when powered up? (If so, motors aren't getting power) My next troubleshoot spot would then be the enable pins on the stepper drivers. Put a Voltmeter on the VCC of the stepper drivers and make sure they are getting power, Then check to see if Arduino Pins are mapped out correctly, and that the 'enable' is set correctly. (Sinking or Sourby ShadowRam - General
Yes, The stepper is rated for maximum 2.5 Amps You don't and probably won't need to run the motor at it's maximum rating unless your 3D Printer is a custom large beast of a heavy machine. Also make sure your Pololu A4988's have heatsinks on them, and run a fan at 100% over the RAMPS board to keep them cool.by ShadowRam - General
No. It sounds like you have the Endstops wired to the wrong end. There's a Xmin and a Xmax.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
There is usually a safety in the firmware, If the temperature is reading as zero. (As in, the thermsistor is damaged/disconnected/not working) it will not allow output to the heater.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Assuming RAMPS 1.4 and Sprinter/Marlin Firmware You can put the Limit Switches are either end. You just need to wire it to the correct Xmin or Xmax, Ymin or Ymax, Zmin or Zmax You also in the firmware enable/disable which endstops you are using, and specify which ones should be considered for homing.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
pololu a4988 Yeah, on that ebay's link, Feature #1 1. This is pulse module, can provide 2.5 KHZ-68 KHZ frequency, supply signal to stepper driver. If you want to control the stepper motor, you still must use a motor driver."]by ShadowRam - General
If you have to come here to ask the question, the answer is no. The L298N looks like a full bridge motor driver, Not a stepper controller. So you would require encoders and some advanced knowledge of electronics and how to modify the standard firmwares.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
I'm not following you, You have a stepper motor, but no stepper driver? You can't run a stepper motor with just a single pulsing wire. You require 4 stepping in sequence.by ShadowRam - General
So then you concluded it's not the RAMPS boards that are the problem. So what heater is it that is causing the MOSFET's to fail? The extruder heater? What are you using as a heater on the J-Head? Cartridge? Resistor? What's the resistance? (Calculate the current it's pulling) Do you have a fan blowing on the hotend causing the heater output to be on too much? Is there a heatsink on the MOSFby ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteIs it possible to connect up an external motor driver to the Ramps board? From what information I can find I mainly need just the DIR ENBL and STEP to get this to operate. Is this true? Yes this is true. (Don't forget to share a common ground as well) There is even spots in the firmware in the advconfiguration that will allow you change the polarity of Enable/Dir pins if is required by yoby ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
Keep an eye on that ATX, (Put a volt-meter on the 12V Line all the time so you can see if it drops out) They aren't completely reliable as a power source. They love to just shut off on their own. I had to give up on one that kept dropping out, and replaced it with another.by ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
I'm confused, Why do you have a UK Style Plug, but have 123 and 128 volts running through your house? That doesn't make any sense. UK and that plug are 220VAC 50Hz.by ShadowRam - Controllers
WHOA, Why is your temperature so high? (240degC?) It looks like Pronterface is waiting to achieve temperature before starting.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Need more pictures, What you picture is showing and what you are describing doesn't really make any sense. If you are talking about curling up of layers and the hotend running into it, then you have a cooling problem. The layer below isn't cool enough before you attempt to print the next layer. Place a fan on the part being printed. If the first layer is curling up, then you have a sticking toby ShadowRam - Reprappers
In the Marlin Firmware you just enter the Steps/mm for each Axis. Configuration.h #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100,101,500,800} Where the 100 is 100 steps needed to move the X one mm. Where the 101 is 101 steps needed to move the Y one mm. Where the 500 is 500 steps needed to move the Z one mm. Where the 800 is 800 steps needed to move one mm of plastic through your extruder. Theseby ShadowRam - Reprappers
I usually have this problem when I forget to turn my 12V Power supply on.by ShadowRam - RAMPS Electronics
These are MOLEX SL Series connectors http://www.molex.com/catalog/web_catalog/pdfs/C.pdf You can find them from a number of suppliers. I'm in Canada, and ordered my pins/housings/hand crimp tool from Newark Parts were pennies, and the hand crimp tool was ~$35by ShadowRam - Controllers
Digital Dial Indicator with a wheel on the end would be a lot simpler. If the wheel has a incremental encoder, you could also measure the amount going in too. Honestly, I don't think the diameter on a filament changes enough to cause that much on an issue to necessitate the need for closed-loop feedback of the width. If money were spent to get better quality, Absolute Encoders on the Steppers,by ShadowRam - Controllers
Very Nice, I'm having some trouble with overshoot in 2 of 4 corners of a block, and getting a good useable working print surface. First, Mirror was working great until I printed a larger piece, and the PLA started to curl. So I installed the PCB Heat Pad I ordered a while ago, Mirror had a chip in it, and upon heating, it failed by creating a sudden large crack down the middle of it. Attemptby ShadowRam - Reprappers
I had these questions as well, and didn't get a lot of response. But this is what I did, The supplier that provided me my hotend gave me a bit of "Muffler Putty" with my hotend, which is great as a glue for high temperatures, but I wasn't sure how well it conducted heat. So I used a tiny bit of Artic Silver Thermal Paste for both the heater and thermsistor, just to help conduct heat on the insby ShadowRam - General
ähM_Key Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I do not understand question 1. What do you mean > with "the platform"? > > As I wrote, not all issues are solved yet, and I'm > happy to get input What pulls the extruder up when as the build height rises?by ShadowRam - Delta Machines
How are the Endstops wired to your board? The switches need to be wired to Ground and Signal.by ShadowRam - General
Maxx Mayhem Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Get some sticky felt like what one would use to > put under a vase on a wood table top, and fashion > a piece that applies light pressure to the edge of > your spool, just enough to keep it from turning > out of control. That's actually a really good idea.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
1013 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Instead of slicing 2 objects....simply slice one. > and copy and paste the G-code into the starting g > code field in the printer config. Then it will > always run that little priming part code first. I would advise against this. If you complete a part, and attempt to print a second part, your print head may colliby ShadowRam - Reprappers
QuoteIs it possible to also change extrusion rate, acceleration rate, change layer height? Extrusion Rate can be adjust by changing ESteps/mm "M92 Ennn" Acceleration Rate could probably be changed as well. Layer Height can't be changed on the fly. That's something that's generated when the GCode is created. Changing ESteps/mm on the Z in attempt to fake it, would be a mess.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Nothing, Just like 'Microsoft Robotics Studio', it's just a hyped up load of bloated software that doesn't actually do anything. They just want to be able to say they can support 3D Printers.by ShadowRam - General
jamesdanielv Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > that is an unusual amount of die swell on the end > are you using 3mm feedstock or 1.75mm? it looks > from the die swell that the hot end may be a 3mm? > it looks like makerfarm only sells 3mm kits of > this model. Yup, I'd guess 1.75mm Filament in a 3mm Hotend.by ShadowRam - General