Thank you both for advice! Wonderful explanation of capacity and voltage; thank you Chris. So I will keep a +5V wire long. Do I need to keep one black wire for it?by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I am doing the PSU mod on an ATX unit. Since the wires are AWG 18 gauge only four yellow +12V wires will fit into the 5AMP and four into the 11AMP connectors on the RAMPS board (same number for the black). Still that's quite a chunk of copper. Using up the sixteen wires above still leaves three yellow and more than three black wires. Rather than terminate those short inside the PSU like I planby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
You can scale an .stl from within KISSlicer and Slic3r. Maybe Skeinforge too; I didn't look and don't remember from memory.by Garry Bartsch - 3D Design tools
I recommend Nophead's Mendel90. He ships from the UK but it's no problem. The kit and instructions are awesome and he gives excellent support on this RepRap forum. You will have fun building the machine and it prints deadly once you learn how to use it.by Garry Bartsch - General
Ah, that makes sense; daft me. Thank you Chris. So I would set the variables as follows: #define X_HOME_POS (X_MIN_POS - 2.5) #define Y_HOME_POS (Y_MIN_POS - 2.6)by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
On my Mendel90 based printer design-in-progress I have the end stop switch operating positions set at 102.5mm for X and 102.6mm for Y. To make sure I am explaining it properly, I mean that when the X carriage moves 102.5mm left from the point when the nozzle is dead center on the print bed it will trigger the X end stop switch. And similarly, when the Y carriage moves 102.6mm forward from the poiby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Ah! I had not considered this possibility and - having not tested it with the motor driving the gear - have not experienced it yet. I will test it as my build progresses. If there are issues with extrusion I will know where to suspect problems. Thank you .. maybe this great idea wasn't so great.by Garry Bartsch - General
I hadn't seen this done before (maybe I just missed it) so thought I'd post. I chopped the hobbed bolt on my Wade's extruder variant. If I can get a hand I would like to drill the bolt and tap it for an M3 screw. Then the bolt would be held in just with a small screw and washer. Actually I think there isn’t even need for anything to hold the bolt in because once the filament is inserted it holdsby Garry Bartsch - General
@karabas I haven't tried with ABS. The only thing I have made so far with ABS is a replacement Wade's block. ABS is tougher to print with for me since I need to ask for more help when working with it (I'm have a disability) so I have stuck to PLA so far. But I would love to use it more and see how accurately it would make objects. The Wade's block works fine but the nut traps were tight and so waby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I have ordered from Filaments.ca and was happy with the plastic. But I'm glad to see another Canadian company as well, and from my province no less. Maybe you could try a spool from both?by Garry Bartsch - General
Thank you for that perfect explanation. I'm glad I asked now before making a mistake.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I am designing a printer based on the Mendel90. I thought to use four bushings on the X carriage; one in each corner. The extra bushing would add weight but I will shave more than that other ways so didn't worry about it. All looked sound on the CAD drawing. Then I printed the parts and assembled them for a test fit and found one of the four bushings did not touch the table top when I placed itby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I'm going from memory here but I know the 3mm PLA was RepRapper blue, 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm J-Head that comes with the Mendel90 kit. I might have set the extrusion width to 0.5mm but can't remember for sure. Likely 20-25mm/sec. My e-steps/mm were calculated as close as possible and then I further tweaked the flow in KISSlicer till it is perfect. I can print row after row of solid layers and nby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I set the bed to 80-85 in the slicer. From memory the green filament that comes with the kit stuck well with bed set to 70. Try cranking up the heat on the hotend. But print the first layer fast enough so there is sufficient plastic flow. Without the fan on the first layer heat can creep up the hotend and soften the plastic resulting in a jam. I know; I jammed mine that way.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
The balls are glued to little cups. The cups are friction fit onto the ends of the screws.by Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
Well, I'm the crippled guy who has to mod a lot of things so I can use them. To use my computer mouse I rest my hand on it and push it around. Since I cannot grip the mouse with my fingers it needs to glide easily on whatever surface it's on. Over the years I have tried a lot of surfaces finally settling on a 1.5mm thick sheet of Teflon. I was gluing tiny glass beads to the bottom of the mouse toby Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
I'm not sure which PLA you are using but clean the glass with vinegar and kitchen towel till it squeaks and then slice whatever object at 80C for the bed. Set your hotend to 200C for the first layer and drop after. Doing this I can get most PLA to stick to glass. Sometime I set the bed even hotter. I leave it the same temp through the entire print. The best quality PLA likes lower temperatures thby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
The M3 and M4 nuts fit perfectly into the top poly holes and loosely into the side poly holes. The diameter of the cylinder measures 19.9mm rather than the 20mm it is designed at. I should print the part and see how Skeinforge slices the cylinder. The square section are pretty good as per the photos. Since there is no cal.scad with the larger poly hole I loaded cal.stl into IronCad and measurby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I just wanted to show that KISSlicer can slice the Wade's gear so the bolt flats are perfect. This was sliced at 3 loops; perimeter first.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteCefiar Correct. I've since edited that to be a bit more explicit, as it wasn't 100% clear. Hopefully it's now clearer. Well, I think it was pretty good before but now it's even better and easier for people like me with no knowledge in electronics. Sometimes things need to be spoon fed to us before we catch on. But I'm learning and appreciate your help.by Garry Bartsch - RAMPS Electronics
Thank you for pointing me to that page. It has great info. I'm not sure how I missed that. The shaft-twisting test for pairs is cool and my motors are the standard red-blue, green-black. So I will connect the same colors from the motor to the same colors from the wiring plug and not worry that the first connector pair is blue-red. If I test the motors and they spin the wrong way I will just reveby Garry Bartsch - RAMPS Electronics
From the RepRap RAMPS 1.4 Wiki we read: "From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black ... ." The motor connectors I have are are opposite for the red and blue. They are: BLUE first and then RED. (Green and black are as per the Wiki.) Should I reverse those first two in the housings I have so their order matches the Wiki (red first)? OR, is the positby Garry Bartsch - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for those good answers. That clears this up for me. I will just connect them individually.by Garry Bartsch - RAMPS Electronics
The diagram that I am thinking shows series wiring is from the RAMPS 1.4 Wiki: Wiring schematic is near bottom of page. Maybe I am not reading it right? My Mendel90 that uses the Melzi board has the Z steppers wired in series.by Garry Bartsch - RAMPS Electronics
I have the G3D version of RAMPS 1.4. I'm trying to decide how to hook up the Z steppers for my new Mendel90 build. I've seen wiring schematics that show the steppers wired in series and plugged in to one spot on the board, and then others that show each stepper plugged into the board separately. Which is the proper way? I'd think in series would be better but then why is the board designed so thaby Garry Bartsch - RAMPS Electronics
I am trying M220 for the first time. It's awesome! I had my machine ripping around at 102mm/sec. which is the fastest I've ever ran it. I don't know how fast I should try going? What can break? The machine ran so smooth even at corners (I assume this is due too the 'look ahead' ability of Marlin). Layer alignment appears unaffected. I am impressed with the Mendel90! I could have done with turniby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Quotenophead To remove parts stuck like that I take the glass off, hold it on its edge, put a block of wood on the top edge of the part and hit it with a hammer! Will try that. Thanks. QuotenopheadOne thing to bear in mind is if you calibrate your Z axis for PLA it will be a bit low for ABS because the hot end expands more due to the higher temperature. If your first layer is low it will stickby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90