The links to the videos are backwards .... Other than that - VERY impressive!!!! ---- How much did things change when you inverted the printer?by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
You have moved the point of failure a bit with the crimp, but have not removed it. Unless you have a very good crimping tool and the right crimp fittings, there's still a chance of the wires working loose over time. Solder is a better approach in this case, but it's still not ideal. Crimps are designed for a range of wire sizes. A fan wire is likely #30 and the power wire should be around #16. Moby uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
My concern is not the com traffic when running normal printer stuff. The concern is that doing Andriod specific enhancements may add a significant load to the Mega.by uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
Pardon my lack of Italian past ordering another glass of wine .... The error message you are getting can come from two places: 1) You still have the Arduino IDE connected while trying to run Pronterface 2) You still have Pronterface running while trying to flash the firmware with the Arduino IDE. In both cases the solution is the same - only run one program at a time. The problem can also coby uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
Quick fix on the board you have - put a pull up resistor on the output of the '125 chip.by uncle_bob - Controllers
Ok, for the TLV431: 1) Bias resistor from +12 to top of regulator. 2) Nice big cap across regulator, a > 10uf electrolytic would do fine 3) Set resistors to get it to 3.0V 4) Clamp diodes going from the thermistors to the regulator I suspect that's not any different than what you have already done.by uncle_bob - Controllers
If you have a heated bed on the printer, that supply isn't big enough..... The voltage for a 1.68A motor would be 0.672V. If you wanted to drive the Z axis (2 motors) at full current, you would set it to ~1.3V. Any setting over about 0.45V is likely to cause the stepper drivers to cut out from over temperature. Exactly what the trip point is depends on your pcboard design, the heatsink on theby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Thread rod is not very straight stuff. About the only way to get rid of Z axis banding is to use it only for height and not for X or Y position. It's just a matter of how it's made and what it's made for. You can get better stuff, but it'll cost you $15 to $90 a foot depending on just how good ....by uncle_bob - Reprappers
If you buy a known good kit, all of the decisions are made for you. If not you have a couple of issues. Say I recommend a "J-Head Hot end". There are several dozen people making knock off hot ends that they call J-Heads. Most of them are 1/4 the price of a real one and pretty much useless. Unless you have one in your hand and can look at it closely, it's tough to figure out what's a real one andby uncle_bob - Reprappers
A new hot end is a $35 to $65 sort of investment. Get a known good one from the people who invented it. Move on ....by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Feed rates above 40 mm/sec will be tough to do with any 3mm extruder, let alone a Bowden. I would set a max in your firmware at or below that and move on. 1.75 mm PLA is a bit more common for a Bowden. You sort of feed a bit faster, but have less back pressure. What are you using for a tube? How smooth is it? How clean is it? How tight is it? What sort of hot end are you using? How well doeby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Not sure about the rest of the post, but I *do* recognize that error message. It's telling you that you have a max temp or min temp error. The printer will not do anything when that error is present. 1) Check the thermistor wiring 2) Check to see that your thermistors read about 25C at room 3) Check your ground wiring to the power supply If the thermistor is normal with no motion and it onlyby uncle_bob - Reprappers
1.5 us to 2 us is what people seem to get with the older Marlin code. The newer code has a bit more in-between the turn on and turn off. People seem to be getting about 2X the pulse width with the newer code. If it turns out to be an issue, dropping another 1us delay in the Marlin code is a real simple fix. The minimum pulse width for the new version of the DQ542 came out of the Wanti doc's. Thby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
In my case I'd rather have it fit and then shim it than not have it fit. Exactly how I'd shim it and whether I'd get exotic about it is TBD. The bearing needs to go over a modest (inch or two) length of the rod. If it's a real tight fit that's going to be "interesting". If you ever want to pull this beast apart, getting a gear puller down in there could also be "interesting". I can see a situatby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Quotenicholas.seward @uncle_bob: Looks good. I would verify that the screw is .75- and the bearing is .75+. I would assume that is the normal way this would be but with the weird 19.05mm bearing I would double check. Buying one to check is a good idea. Of course this means I'd have to also get some thread rod. Actually mounting one on the other is a pretty sure way to check them. Four feetby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Ok, if I'm going with 3/4" 0.750 OD thread rod (Roton Hi Lead) is: A rational bearing to use? The price certainly is right.....by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
This is interesting, this is the second thread where my post has vanished. Let's see if it re-apperars at some point in the future .....by uncle_bob - Reprappers
If you want to run anything but PLA, you need a heated bed. With PLA you can get away without one. Even with PLA they are helpful. I would not have my only printer be one without a heated bed.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
I sure thought I posted a reply to this already ..... Stick to the bed: 1) Bed is not level 2) Bed zero is wrong 3) Bed temp is wrong (if abs) 4) Printing speed on first layer is to fast Upper layers: 1) Extruder temp is to low 2) Print speed is to low 3) Extrusion flow is to low Either one: 1) Z axis is not calibrated 2) Extruder is not calibratedby uncle_bob - Reprappers
ummm ...... errrrrrr..... On most of these printers, the Z axis drive is an M5 thread rod. The support rods are M8 or M10. The smooth rods are normally 8mm. The Z axis has non trivial weight. Any "slop" in the threads isn't going to matter much. The nut will ride on the bottom of the threads. What sort of printer do yo have with an M8 Z axis drive?by uncle_bob - Reprappers
There is no problem at all to running a Ramps hardware board attached to a 100% Mega compatible hardware board with any software tool chain that will support the Mega cpu. If you wish to write your own firmware, there is no limitation at all. The existing firmware is tightly linked to the Arduino libraries and porting it would be a non-trivial exercise. Since the firmware is actively being develoby uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
What slicer are you using that's randomly putting temperature change commands into the gcode without being told to do so?by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Based on the way it's built, there's no way to retrofit a heated bed into that design. Auto bed leveling is a ~ $10 to $20 add on to any of these printers. That printer has a very small print area. On a cost per area printed, it's not going to win the race....by uncle_bob - Reprappers
If the motors are powered up, it's normal for the shaft to be "stuck". If the motors are not powered up, you should be able to turn them with your fingers.by uncle_bob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
1) What does your motor spec sheet say about the max current per winding? 2) What is the max torque on your motors (same spec sheet) 3) Which stepper chips do you have? 4) Which stepper PC boards do you have (what R sense?)? Once you have all that, you can calculate the Vref voltage for your stepper. If you have a single turn pot set stepper driver, the Vref voltage is on the pot wiper and youby uncle_bob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
You need some fairly specific motors for a printer. They run $10 to $20 brand new for ones that work with the controllers we normally use. Matching a "free motor" up to a $30 controller does not save you anything. What you *must* know: 1) The mounting face size (say NEMA-17) there are about a dozen common alternatives 2) The torque output. We use fairly high torque motors 3) The body length (nby uncle_bob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
The main issue is that there are way to many gizmo variations out there and far to little data (no manuals) on what's in them. Some of these outfits change motors more often than I change socks ....by uncle_bob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I would not go with anything under 22 A for a 12V power supply. There is just to much variation between hot ends and heated beds. A one ohm heated bed can pull 12A by it's self. A magma hot end can pull 4A. You still have 10 motor windings, fans, and the control stuff to power up.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
If you have a servo that is not temperature stable (many of them are not), you will get the Z axis to low after a bed level.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
There is no standard color code for wiring motors. Your picture seems to show a black / blue and a red / blue combination. I'm guessing one of the blues is being called green. As long as the top two ohm out as connected when you check them with a DVM and the bottom two ohm out as connected, you are ok. While you have the DVM out, check both windings to the case as well. If they are shorted, tby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics