QuoteJamesK Ah, that would make sense. I hadn't considered that ooze on the infill might cause functional problems. Sounds like a lot of ooze? What size nozzle and what travel speed are you using? A large nozzle and slow travel speed would tend to aggravate ooze problems, along with relatively high temperatures for the plastic type you are using. With a 0.4mm nozzle and 250mm/s travel I don't usuby Edvardas - General
Oh and there is a Tantilus printer that can also be mostly printed. It boosts a better design than a snappy but comes a lot smaller at 100x100x100 (mm) build space.by Edvardas - General
Quotelkcl btw does anyone know of a european supplier of the LM8LUU bearings? all the EU suppliers i've found so far only have the LM8UU smaller bearings. This is close and probably even better than lm8luu but it comes at a price.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Cubicon slicer should be able to create support ABS material that is supposed to be broken off once part is finished. How much does Cubicon material cost? If it is anything like Stratasys then Snappy printer will cost hundreds of dollars (if not thousands) just in ABS material. I mean it might be a better idea just to buy a printer kit (like mendelmax or prusa) minus all the printed parts. Thatby Edvardas - General
QuoteDaGameFace okay, so i want to make a 4:1 or maybe 5:1 gear ratio from a nema 11 to a 5mm rod. im thinking of doing this with 3d printed gears with set screws and file a flat spot on the 5mm smooth rod in a bowden esq looking manor. But i now think that planetary gears could be another option (perhaps a better option). So for designing these i was planning on doing it myself unless i find aby Edvardas - General
Quoterealthor Look at the kind of bed Felix 3D printer uses...I am looking for some time to get my hands on such thing but nothing yet. All chinese cmpanies that sell corrugated aluminum panels expect orders of min 500m2 or so. Then stop looking and buy this: I would even call it cheap. Oh and if you do please let us know the weight.by Edvardas - General
QuoteSrek It is not to hard to keep the printbed lightweight. If you use something like a Bulldog XL the x carriage is easily heavier than Y. Is there any information on lightweight bed designs and materials used? I was looking into it myself and end up with an idea that dibond might work (not heated bed) but I have never had that stuff in my hands and would guess that it is not as flat as one cby Edvardas - General
QuoteSrek QuoteEdvardas As long as the talk is about lightweight hotends... Which printer design could actually benefit from it? I can only think of Delta. Low mass means that you can use higher accelerations and/or that the mechanical parts can be scaled down. Delta printers gain the most, but it can help improve every kind of printer. How would a cartesian printer benefit of it if there is stiby Edvardas - General
As long as the talk is about lightweight hotends... Which printer design could actually benefit from it? I can only think of Delta.by Edvardas - General
Do you need 200mm of printbed space on Y plane? I would guess that you could make a printer with a 200mm wide frame in Y plane that has around 150mm of usable printbed space. Relocating the motors like on this printer would give some extra space 220mm that is allowed is not really something that would call for a foldable printer. 100mm would be it. Have you considered the airport security's reby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
How big is a printbed?by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I am running 3 nozzles of 1.75mm with a single high torque low current Nema 17 (it is a manufacturing printer that makes 3 same objects at the same time). There is a gearing of 1:3.75 . Had no problem up to 100mm/s (did not see a need to go faster). Note that 1.75mm requires 3 times less force to push than 3mm filament so go with this size.by Edvardas - General
Has anyone used PVC sheet as an enclosure for a printer? PVC is naturally fire retardant. I have found thin clear flexible PVC at a local hardware store for a very low price. I was going to use metal as an enclosure material but PVC seems much easier to get done.by Edvardas - Safety & Best Practices
I would not mount smooth rods into pre-drilled holes. You will never get them lined up that way. 2020 is very easy to drill. I use a hand drill myself. Holes are there only to put a hex key though so they do not need any accuracy.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Oh and I think that you do not really need a very stiff joint between your bed structure and bearings. As your design is not cantilevered there are no forces acting on these parts.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I like your 3 rods design. I have gone to 3 screw bed leveling and love it. It really makes sense. I am looking forward to hearing your results. Are you sure you can not find any 2020 profiles in Brazil? Like not a single place with them for sale? It sounds like you have not even looked You can actually buy linear bearings in aluminum housings. They are way more expensive (around 7 EUR each) cby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I think it depends on the hardware you have. If you employ fully supported linear rods (or linear rails) and high quality linear bearings with a stiff bed platform then it should do fine. Digital_dentist has pointed out that while milling machines have been made in this configuration those also have heavy cast metal frames. I use cheap smooth rods that are slightly undersized at 7.94 (mm) and chby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Lets talk about filament spool placement for direct extruder printers. It is clear that with bowden extruder a spool can be put away next to the extruder. But what about direct drive ones? It seems that tried and tested method is right above the printhead. But recently I have seen more and more professional printers (yesterday ones from GermanRepRap) that have spools mounted at the bottom of theby Edvardas - General
QuoteJ-Max Hi guys, @Edvardas : that's not stronger, but it's pretty the same strenght, just you don't spend time to drill holes, and it realy unexpensive <$2/pc ++JM That is 16 dollars for just a simple cube (8 corners). Add a few for a bed or some extra beams and it is expensive. I made an order at Motedis a few weeks ago and these corner cubes came up almost as expensive as corner brackby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
QuoteJ-Max Hi guys, AlexY, you should try to flex your 1515 structure with a dial indicator. You'll see that the flex is not anecdotic There's some realy usefull hardware for 2020 or 1515 profiles. For example the 3 ways corners. Light and cheap version : Heavy and clean version : Both minimize the use of extra hardware. Note, for both of it you can add plugin caps for a clean look. ++JMby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I think a whole community who is working on 2020 framed printers should admit that printing the corner brackets was a mistake from a start. Sorry but you are not helping with your excuses trying to defend it You are not reducing the cost nor the number of bolts. I can clearly see that you have way more than one bolt connecting one 2020 profile to the other. Four 40cm long 2020 profiles costs 5by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDjDemonD The latest version of smartrapcore alu, connects the extrusions to one another directly with the centre hole tapped to accept a bolt drilled through the other extrusion so its remarkably stiff. They did away with plastic corners as this method is much more simple and stronger. Bolt does not go through anything that has been drilled. Drilled hole is there to access a bolt with a hexby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I think that adding atleast an extra set of extrusions in a horizontal plane would greatly increase the stiffness of the frame. Like on this printer except it has two sets of extra horizontal sets of extrusions: [3dprint.com] Just tapping and bolting should be sufficient. It is really strange that more printers do not use this to increase the stiffness.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
How straight are 2020 profiles?by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Quoteanimoose Off-topic a little, but what speed can you get out of the XL300 smartrapcore? How does it compare to Eclips3d? Infinite speed like on any printer (if extruder limitation is out of calculation)? It is all about acceleration and jerk speed.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Everyone seems to calculate rods for extruder's weight. But I have never seen any calculations to differ for X and Y axis. X axis has to carry the extruder only whereas Y axis carries the extruder and the rods of X axis and the bearings for Y axis. This can quickly become double of what extruder weights. Y axis is also quite simple to have fully supported round rods mounted too. Their weight isby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I guess that 18mm long M3 coupler is a actually a brass stand-off for electronics boards. I do not think think that they are suitable for this. I have bent way to many similar length M3 stainless steels bolts just with my fingers. Long nuts usually come 3 times longer than a diameter. So that would be 9mm for an M3 thread. However I think that smallest size is actually M5. What about a metal moby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
You could also flip the pulley upside down and drill a hole in the middle of your plate for the pulley to go through. Then you would not need such a long hex couplers.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
If you are going to enclose the printer.. are you also going to print ABS? Then if it is a heated enclosure you should probably keep motors outside. I do not see a reason not to use printed parts for motor mounts. Just make them extra thick: 10mm walls with atleast 2mm of printed perimeter and high infill number. If you are paranoid about part's stiffness then go crazy thick and print thick partby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Check out a new XL300 smartrapcore And to answer your question- no it does not have to be square. Mine is not. 12mm is overkill. If you care about deflection then forget smooth rods and go with rails or fully supported smooth rods.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines