There is an extrudrboard for sale at reprap.me So are you planning to use ramps? I am affraid there are only outputs for 3 hotends on it.by Edvardas - General
Bill, I am checking my thread as much as yours Extrudrboard is compatible with ramps and would get you 4 extruders: Radds v1.5 seems to be able to run 4 nozzles if you do not have a heatbed. Rumba should be able to run up to 5 nozzles. And duet is the ultimate board in this regard.by Edvardas - General
That human sized printer looks to be made from the same 2020 profiles as the small ones: I do not know if its rigid enough but they seem to be moving it around to expos. And it seems that they are even using printed brackets to connect the extrusions and that would be the weak point.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
As I said I am going to use endless GT2 belt and 16 tooth and 60 tooth pulleys to run a shaft that has MK7 or MK8 hobbed nut on it. Like this design: All parts are already ordered.by Edvardas - General
I have a huge backlash on my herringbone gears. On both the set I printed and another I received with a printer. I can imagine that it is possible to print them so there is very little backlash but they just dont seem that reliable and I hate to do any work around extruder as gears are oiled. I hope belt driven extruder will be great. Most of the features of Duet are insignificant to me as I keeby Edvardas - General
I thought that people are using direct drive extruders with no gear ratios for 1.75mm. Is not that right? I am currently running gregs wade on 3mm diameter filament on my Prusa i3. Considering that 1.75mm requires 3 times less force I should have no problem extruding through 3 nozzles using the same extruder. Yes it has a 5:1 ratio but I really do not like the backlash I have on fishbone gearsby Edvardas - General
What do you mean by a "redundant probe"? I still think that it would be a good idea to have a separate thermistor for every single nozzle.by Edvardas - General
Thanks Olaf. Thats is a nice an simple solution. However I am a little concerned about using a single thermistor on a single nozzle to control the temperature on the rest of the 3 nozzles.by Edvardas - General
Hello everone, have not been here for a while and it is nice to be back I am building a coreXY 3d printer that is going to be used for continous manufacturing of the same parts. Design is based on Vulcanus V1 3d printer: This printer is going to have 3 or 4 nozzles that are attached to the same X carrier. This means that instead of making 1 part at the time it is going to be printing 3 or 4 iby Edvardas - General
I use Prusa i3 to make coating equipment parts which are sold as a product. Works great.by Edvardas - General
Quotedissidence so what kinda level of paranoid are you after any how.? Thank you for a message. Not as paranoid as you can think. Initially I wanted to build an enclosure as I am tired of ABS fumes. But making that enclosure fireproof would bring a new opportunities of stand alone printing. So far I have printed around 5 kilograms of ABS which translates to a few hundreds of hours without a pby Edvardas - Safety & Best Practices
Quoteeci22 Wouldn't you need to test this enclosure in some way ? Would you have a printer to spare ? It should be quite easy to make a small box of plasterboard and introduce a fire in it. When see what happens. Enclosing a printer in some sort of box has been tested before so that should not be a problem. In a case of fire I would have a printer to spare but would not have a flat to spare. Soby Edvardas - Safety & Best Practices
I have been thinking for a while on making a fireproof enclosure that would not let fire spread outside of the printer and would keep fumes of the ABS inside while printing. I want to let printer work overnight and while I am not around. Self-extinguishing engineering plastics are quite pricey in quantities needed to cover a whole printer and while metal would be easier to obtain, it will requireby Edvardas - Safety & Best Practices
PSU is a cheap one without any safety certifications. It is really giving me second thought from time to time. But it has been working great so far for around 100 hours. For the wires I am already using ones with thick insulation which were meant to be used outside. And they are both inside single insulation so are pretty much as safe as can get. Thank you for a response!by Edvardas - Controllers
So I have moved to different place. Wall sockets here have only two holes, no ground connection is present. What am I risking by not connecting 360w PSU to ground? Thanks.by Edvardas - Controllers
In kisslicer you can try "inset surface" and set it to 0.25mm I guess. That would also affect all the other sides of the part. I do not think you can change STL. You need a drawing file. And there is a .scad file. You can download openscad and you should be able to edit it.by Edvardas - General Mendel Topics
On power supply: I am pretty sure that makerfarm kits come with LCD screen and that means standalone printingby Edvardas - General Mendel Topics
This is a quite simple approach. Seems to me that a printer like prusa i3 could be perfectly used in this... Turn it upside down. Fix laser in a place of bed and a platform in a place of extruder. Change the z axis motor direction and there you have FDM printer converted to SLA. Looks like even a software can be left the same from FDM.by Edvardas - Polymer Working Group
Not the answer you asked for but consider soluble support materials for reprap. PVA is water soluble but pricey. However I am not sure if DLP resins are cheaper...by Edvardas - Polymer Working Group
Why would you even consider i2? i3 fixed all its weaknesses and it is a great printer for first time builder, easy to build if you buy a kit.by Edvardas - General
I run 8 years old IBM thinkpad with centrino processor and it has no problem generating gcodes. It takes less than half a minute to generate gcode in Cura or Kisslicer and more than half an our on Skeinforge for the same STL. So it is more a matter of gcode generator you are using than a computer. Sure it should be faster on newer laptop using Skeinforge if it is your thing. I run old Asus EEE neby Edvardas - General
I would read about the customer service and if it is good I would go with aluminium prusa. Industrial PSU is not that much pricier. And there is no need to cut wires and it just works. I would ask why would you even consider going with computer PSU if you do not have one laying around?by Edvardas - General Mendel Topics
I was hoping for a tradeoff when I bought an aluminium plate Prusa i3 but here is what I have to say... My well calibrated i3 prints in quality as good as Stratasys uPrint SE. Price difference between these printers is 20 times. Stratasys makes you buy material in their spools and that costs 10 times more than normal 3D printing ABS (atleast that is a price my university pays and maybe thats forby Edvardas - General Mendel Topics
Did not watch a video at first, sorry. Unfortunately it will only be shipped at the end of next year.by Edvardas - Polymer Working Group
Here is a link. Does not sound like something ground braking. Nickel plating should not be a problem, there are companies doing that as a service and even a DIY kits. Cleaning with PP or PE is also no problem as these materials are tested with normal nozzles and work. I am really not sure about pressure. Can not find an extruding pressure for ABS or PLA. ? In the end it looks like printingby Edvardas - Polymer Working Group
PVDF can be found as a welding rod 3mm in diameter. Anyone tried to print it? Maybe any other fluoropolymer? Google does not really show anything except some new extruders which are currently being designed and should be able to print new materials including PVDF. Whats wrong with puting PVDF through regular nozzle?by Edvardas - Polymer Working Group
I have not tried this, but... Under "prt g-code" choose "n(*) layers". On the left type in 2. This means that you are choosing layer number two to change code. On the big screen type in "M140 S110". M140 should mean a setting for bed temperature. S110 is temperature. S100 would be 100 degrees Celsius and so on. Should work. I would suggest closing kisslicer after typing in this code. Open again aby Edvardas - General Mendel Topics
1. There is only one temperature for bed I am affraid. You can change it manually in pronterface while printing. Or type it directly into gcode after a first layer, I suppose. Have not done that myself. 2. Under Printer- hardware there is bed rougness function. I guess you should increase it so you start to print higher. However, I start my print at paper thin gap. Gives really good adhesion.by Edvardas - General Mendel Topics
Zenock under Printer-Firmware choose different fimware. I had to choose "5D-Absolute E" Uncle Bob, it is not really variable. Thing is that if there is 0.2mm gap between lines it will just lay down a chosen value (in this case 0.5mm) width in its place. Thats not perfect but I can not really trace any big negatives in that.by Edvardas - General Mendel Topics
This highly decreases vibration and sound Without a vibration I do not see how nuts can get loose. I have printed around 80 hours now and have not adjusted anything except for leveling a bed.. for 2 times I think and it did not even need it. I print at slow speed of 15-45mm/s so that might be a reason for reliability. Thats on single aluminium plate prusa i3.by Edvardas - General Mendel Topics