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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: Z steppers interfering with each other. - 11 years ago
Have you tried adjusting the pot on the driver? Up the reference voltage a bit. If it's been sitting in the same spot for a while they can build up a litte resistance.by cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: I have 0.9 degree sterpper motors! >> what should changed in Firmware conf. file?!!! - 11 years ago
Yes that is the one. Here is a calculator to help you out.by cat.farmer - General
Re: I have 0.9 degree sterpper motors! >> what should changed in Firmware conf. file?!!! - 11 years ago
Steps per unit will have to be configured correctly is all. It will end up being double of what the normal 1.8 ° would be.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Hobbed bolt slipping - 11 years ago
are your gears turning when it is slipping? is your hot end holding temp when you are extruding withthe motor? If you move the big grear by hand to extrude, does it flow good? Make sure your small gear is tightened down good, and you have good tenion on the hobbed bolt.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: RAMPS died after solid year and a half of operation - 11 years ago
QuoteCefiar cat.farmer: You might not disconnect them often, but I do. As for a redesign, that was sort of what RAMPS-FD was all about, except going to a Due. There are a lot of new electronics ideas out there at the moment, so I suspect the whole landscape will change in the coming months. FWIW: On the boards I made, I used 16A ones. Never had an issue. I would expect you to be the exceptionby cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: RAMPS died after solid year and a half of operation - 11 years ago
I never have understood why they use those connectors on the Ramps. it not like we dissconnect them often. a good soild screw mount would work nicely, and I would think be a bit cheaper(pricewise). I ended up replacing mine with one of the 4 pin power connectors from a ATX power supply, and soldered the leads to the board. the added bonus to that is adding a fan, most of them come with the inlinby cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Over Extruded Layer? - 11 years ago
Because your print ran for a long time before it happened, I can only think of acouple things. Binding at that point, stepper motor overheating, or maybe stepper driver over heating. Or it could just be one of those one off problems that never happens agian. I would run some other prints before you start tweeking too much. You may end chasing ghosts.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: No extrusion in the middle of print - 11 years ago
Why is a fan blowing on your hotend causing the temp to drop? .. the better question is why doesn't your hotend stay at temp with a fan on it. Reason is your heating eliment cant keep up with air blowing on it. You can try to put some kind of duct on your fan to keep it off the hotend, or insulate the hotend with ceramic insulation.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Need help to root cause these printing defects - 11 years ago
Do you have the fan blowing on just one side? I recently added a fan to the left and right of my hot end because of an issue like yours, but not that extreme.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Over Extruded Layer? - 11 years ago
To me it looks like your z heigth skipped at that point. Hard to tell from the picture.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Printing issues - 11 years ago
Quotewaitaki Well you don't need to have the temp set in the slicer program. They can be controlled manually as Trexter has done. The problem is caused by something else. Let's see what happens after he has re-loaded everything. True, i did know that, but it was an easy test to see if that was the cause.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: No extrusion in the middle of print - 11 years ago
What filamet and temp are you printing at? You might try to increase the temp a bit. Or you may be off on the z calibration and your head is dragging through the print causing the jam. You could try a higher layer height to ssee if it jams.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Printing issues - 11 years ago
and that is the problem. you need to have the temp set in the slicer program. you can still adjust during the print, but as of now you are shutting off the hotend and heatbead.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Printing issues - 11 years ago
do you have the proper temps set inside your slicing program?by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: 3D cement printer - 11 years ago
Well done. I followed your progress in this thread, and that is one truely amazing printer.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Filament is stuck, doesnt get transported - 11 years ago
you need to print hotter, 160C will never work and 185 is just about the bare minimum. try @ 195 -205C and see how things work.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Fan overcools hot end - 11 years ago
what electronics and firmware ? and how is it connected. you can control fan speed with most set upsby cat.farmer - General
Re: Random X homing movements - 11 years ago
try turning your homing acceleration downby cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: Random X homing movements - 11 years ago
You may not be calibrated correctly. Or you may be skipping steps. I would check your ref voltage on the drivers. You can check to see if its skipping by putting slight pressure against the carriage and see if it has problems moving. If so bump your ref voltage up a bit.by cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: 
ABS and Kapton tape- all the same? or? - 11 years ago
the thing I found helps the most with warping is using a Brim, have not had a part warp since.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Nema 17 wires dont match... - 11 years ago
A's goto A's 2 being "-" same with B'sby cat.farmer - General
Re: Extruder is not extruding properly at first. - 11 years ago
Are you priming the hotend before the print? Running a brim or a couple of loops should solve that problem. For the Z axis are you activity cooling your electonics? Might help to share your machine type and what type of hotend.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Another "Help Me Tune/Diagnose My i3 Print Issue" Thread. - 11 years ago
Have you tried different filament? A quick look, showed all green parts. It may be crappy filament causing issues. I have some that extruded(manufactured) as a tube in parts of the roll ( yes cheap ebay crap) and it causes issues like yours from time to time. Good filament, just like a good hotend, are a must for good prints.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Non Responsive EndStop - 11 years ago
Correct.. on the ramps. It should read open with nothing connected. If it is shorted, it is possible to use one of the max connections and remap the pin to the ardurino.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Non Responsive EndStop - 11 years ago
Does it stay triggered if you disconnect from the board? If so look for a short on the board.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Stringy prints - 11 years ago
Try slower speeds, less heat, more retraction or any combination of those.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Heatbed Causing Disconnect When Turned On - 11 years ago
How many ohms does your heatbed measure?by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Print Size Issue - 11 years ago
If you are sure your steps are correct..ie you attempt to move 10mm and it moves 10mm.. then you need to look for a mechanical problem. Belts tight,pullys not slipping, your not skipping steps.. do you prints look good if you print larger? Or is the surface not straight?by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: cant write to printer after crashing the y-axis without the endstop in place - 11 years ago
is the switch wired correctly? What type of switch is it? if it is just a switch (not the board) check to see if you have V+/signal wired instead of ground/signal. I made just this mistake yesterday and every time I hit the switch my printer disconnected.by cat.farmer - Printing