Show all posts by user
Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: Not enough plastic - 11 years ago
2 things.. Cheap Chinese hot end, may not be to spec, hwat size filamet are you using? Do you have a fan on the hotend? Heat may be traveling up and swelling, causing your jams.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: I think you really can take ideas from the internet, and be the first to patent it without fear of losing a lawsuit. - 11 years ago
Great post again A2. I was wondering about how a company could patent a open idea. While I agree patents are a good idea, we(and I mean America) need to revamp a system that allows this type of behaviour. I hate that an peice of intellectual property can basicly be stolen from the owner, and patented just because they can, for what ever reason. I do beleive makerbot/statsys will hinder the advaby cat.farmer - General
Re: prusa i3 trouble - 11 years ago
Might chech for a bad motor connector,a square would be more "jerkey" then a circle, maybe something is shaking loose.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Ramps drawing to much current? - 11 years ago
Thicker wires are always a good idea, I use 14ga zip cord, like on a table lamp. The problem is, it is the weakest point that causes the issue. Contacts on the board to the heatbed tend to vibrate loose,and/ or build up resistance as they get used. The marginal ratings of the connectors also play, they melt and cause issues. Best advice is to run a relay like cnc dick mentioned. It can be solid sby cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: Z probe questions. - 11 years ago
Intresting thought. I assume you are looking to print on a curved surface and not just so cheap you don't want to replace a bad print area. I was thinking about something like this too. If you could print to the contour of an object you could repair an object directly, instead of creating a peice and gluing it in. Wby cat.farmer - General
Re: Test Code Won't Open!!! - 11 years ago
How are you trying to open it?by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Extruder won't heat when printing - 11 years ago
Which contact are you wired to D8, D9, or D10? Also post the first 20 lines of your g code.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: prusa i3 trouble - 11 years ago
Just a guess.. but is your x-axis and okbed level?by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Where can I purchase parts? - 11 years ago
If you have a local hobby store, they may have metrics. You can get them from ebay. Fastenal has them, you may have to order. Any of the large chain home supply stores (home depot, lowes,menards,ect) carrys them. Strange that your hardware store does not carry them, must be a small town?by cat.farmer - General
Re: What do I need to do here - 11 years ago
That is an odd one. I would look for something machanical. some sort of binding on the axis, and maybe a little "slop" in a bearing/bushing. That is so slight, I dont know if you would be able to feel it. If you shift the object on the build plate, or print more then one at a time, see what the lines do. you could also print a block (maybe 3 mils thick, 5 or 10 mils high) the runs the lengthby cat.farmer - Printing
Re: need help while printing print get off course - 11 years ago
2 Amp power supply? Is that a typo? If not you are way under powered, which would cause your issue.by cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: top layer prints very bad - 11 years ago
It looks like you are printing too hot.. both heatbed and hotend. You may want to try increasing your extrusion mutlipler a couple %. How many layers do you have on you top layer? When I have my infill set very low my tops looke like that until the third layer, then it smooths out. Slic3r will allow you to change settings for solid layers, and more. You may want to try and play with those settinby cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: PrintrBot Simple power draw - 11 years ago
It is the amp output of the power supply not tbe watt input. What is you rated output on the 12volt side of the power supply?. Anything less then 20 you may have an issue. Could also be the supply is failing, or any number of other problems. It would be better to look at all the parts that might be causing the issue, to find a failing part, rather then throwing money at a problem you don't know tby cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: How to stick ABS to heatbed - haispray failed - 11 years ago
Try printing with a brim. Only way i get my prints not to warp. I also use pva on the bed.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Scavenger List - 11 years ago
QuoteMattMoses Quotecat.farmer You need to find older scanners and printers.. mid 80's. I assume you say this because most of the newer printers don't have stepper motors. There is a guy making great progress on a low-cost solution that uses DC motors + encoders scavenged from newer model inkjet printers: Further progress on framing my repscrap. No steppers needed. Yes they had steppers,belts,pby cat.farmer - General
Re: Scavenger List - 11 years ago
You need to find older scanners and printers.. mid 80's. I know a little hard to find, but i happened to have a few laying around. That is where i got my rods and steppers to build my rapstrap. Used plywood and wood blocks to build the x axis, and other various methods to get my printer going.. i did buy an extruder, though i was going to build the plywood one. And bought a hot end (ohio plasics,by cat.farmer - General
Re: Shifting layer - 11 years ago
You might try a fan on the electronics. They may be over heating and causing missed steps.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: XY Jerk settings - 11 years ago
Quotechris33 heres a another thread about xy jerk settings bumpy around corners I saw that one, kinda why I asked. If I understand correctly on a change in direction ..say x to y.. when it shifts direction this slowly raises the acceleration to you set rate. Or is this the speed that the change takes place? I will just have to play with the setting more. I still am wondering what a max settinby cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Shifting layer - 11 years ago
Are your motors getting too hot? Do you have Active cooling on your electonics? Does it do it with smaller objects?by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: XY Jerk settings - 11 years ago
QuoteMrDoctorDIV So it's liken to acceleration, but for changes of direction, rather than speed alone? That is what confuses me..the firmware states./ The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously) How can you change speed without acceleration?by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: I need help identifying the problems of my printer - 11 years ago
frist adjust your z height so it is resting on the bed, and do the sheet of paper adjustment. there should be no need for a negitive offset. hotter is better, too hot - bad.. I think if you get your z height correct, and a .15 to .2 firist layer height, you should have good results. I use PVA glue (white glue and water 50/50 mix) and 65C on my bed for PLA, PVA and 100C for ABSby cat.farmer - Printing
Re: XY Jerk settings - 11 years ago
Thanks shawn. The question is not about achieving speed, just an understanding of what it is and does. I was playing with the setting last night, and put in a high value.. something like 100, to see what effect it had. It did correct my corrner issue, and an issue i was having with circles. But i really don't understand what it is I changed, and the effects of it to other parts of the print.by cat.farmer - Printing
XY Jerk settings - 11 years ago
I often see suggestions to change the XY Jerk for printing issues, corners mostly. but I was wondering about what is the recommended Max setting for this? The github version of Marlin is set at 20, I have seen people say they set it as high as 400?? ( I know..I know.. it is based on printer model ) What is the effect of a high setting or too high setting?by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: I need help identifying the problems of my printer - 11 years ago
This issue has ben covered many times in the forum, it would be easiest to do a little looking around here. There are many causes of not sticking - I think the list is almost endless.. the 2 I would look at is bed temp and layer height. make sure your first later is "pressed" down on to the platform. I too had this issue when I started, now I rarely have problems, seems like once you get it, yby cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Reversing Motors - 11 years ago
QuoteDust See its call INVERT_{AXIS}_DIR Ignore the comments in the code, they really arent based in reality. I dont know why someone hasnt answered your queston before, this is simple stuff. Other than being a bunch of smart arses.... Thanks Dust.. that is what I meant Invert.. to convert..by cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: Reversing Motors - 11 years ago
Look for convert motor in the config h file. Changing true to false or the other way around changes the direction.by cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: Program Choices - 11 years ago
I use sketchup and havent run into any big issues. Slic3r doesn't always like the model, but cura works for them. Sketchup is nice because it is graphical, and i don't need a whole lot of math to build something.I am learning open scad, easy enough to learn simple models in a few hours, but i I do wish I had more math kung fu.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 Problems - 11 years ago
sounds like a short maybe. does it power the board after it is connected? and I wouldn't suggest pluging things in with the power on. magic smoke may appear. I would wtart with reomving the ramps from the mega and see if you can connect. then unplug everything from the ramps, connect the ramps and connect, keep adding things until it stops connecting - there is your issue.by cat.farmer - Printing
Re: Whats wrong with this print ? - 11 years ago
looks like there may be multiple issues. under current on the motor - missing steps print temp too low belts not tight enough loose hot end printing too fast those are the things ro start with...by cat.farmer - Reprappers