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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: untimely reset of the ramps 1.4 - 10 years ago
No. It is hard-wired to the reset pin on the Arduino. Since it is a normally-open switch, and you'll need to replace it anyway (or not...), you could take needle-nose pliars and peel the cover off and remove the plunger. This will not damage the circuit board, and will still allow operation of the RAMPS board until it is replaced.by MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Prusa stopping mid-print - 10 years ago
Are you printing from Repetier Host? I had a similar problem that was related to RH crashing during prints due to the onscreen 3D rendering. It could also be the Arduino dropping out due to too much current on the 5v that is powered by the USB cable... just a shot in the dark.by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: noob question on x-ends - 10 years ago
You can modify the spots where the M5 nuts are located, but you'll need to be able to secure your 1/4" nuts there. I would suggest using 1/4" T-nuts, as they will be easy to secure against rotational movement...by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: First manual command after connecting moves 2 axis - 10 years ago
Thanks for putting the screen on the video. From what I see, your hot end is not above the 0,0 point on your bed - probably around Y-10 or so. When you run the command it is sending an X+100, Y+10 (or whatever) to reach the 100,0 point on the bed. Try running M114 in G-Code to find out where the printer thinks the hot end is located, then run it again after you manually move the hot end... probby MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: top solid layers in slicer - 10 years ago
Make sure you have the filament and nozzle sizes set correctly in Slic3r...by MindRealm - Printing
Re: FolgerTech Printer Problems - 10 years ago
I have the same printer and love it! Please attach your configuration.h file and I'll take a look too.by MindRealm - Printing
Re: Mendel quits as soon as print starts. - 10 years ago
I had a similar problem with Repeier Host, caused by the onscreen 3D rendering crashing, then locking up the print. I switched to Pronterface temporarily until I had time to dig into the problem, but just never went back to RH...by MindRealm - Printing
Re: Hotend not turning off after print done - 10 years ago
How is the hot end connected to the RAMPS board?by MindRealm - Printing
Re: new guy in the deep end - 10 years ago
QuoteOne question I have (of many I'm sure) concerns the extruder assembly of the printed parts I purchased. I have attached some pictures of the part I'm referring to. It looks like I will have to cut the highlighted areas away in order to fit the idler assembly on the main extruder body. Is this correct? Yes. These are supports that facilitated printing the raised portions of the part.by MindRealm - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 problem - 10 years ago
It sounds like something (misplaced end stop plug, reversed servo plug, etc.) is shorting the 5 volt bus, causing the Arduino to shut down, losing connection to the laptop. Do you have anything plugged into the RAMPS board when this happens?by MindRealm - General
Re: D9 ground output problem - 10 years ago
With a meter on the power input ground for reference, the positive terminal in D9 will always read around 12v, regardless of whether the fan is turned on in G-Code (M106). The negative terminal reading depends on the duty cycle of the PWM output of the Arduino, driving the negative (ground) through the mosfet. Technically, the output on the negative terminal is always at ground potential when on,by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Auto Bed Leveling Servo Stuck - 10 years ago
Sounds like the servo is shorted or plugged in wrong. It is causing too much current draw from the 5v bus... May need to replace the servo.by MindRealm - Printing
Re: 3D print initial setup issues. Slic3r / Pronterface - 10 years ago
Make sure you have the filament and nozzle sizes set properly in slic3r...by MindRealm - Printing
Re: Hot end on Prusa_Mendel i2 not heating up any more. Thermistor OK AFAIK - 10 years ago
You are fighting two battles. First, let's sort out the hardware... Disconnect the extruder and the thermistor from the RAMPS board and check the resistance through them. The thermistor should be below 100k and will change when the temperature changes. The hot end heater should also show resistance, but a much lower value. If it shows zero ohms, it is shorted. If you get no reading, then it iby MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Good quality walls - 10 years ago
Your part looks okay. Since you are printing a 3D object in slices, the solution is to print more slices per mm. I would suggest trying a smaller aperture nozzle. This will yield smoother parts, but takes much longer to print.by MindRealm - General
Re: D9 ground output problem - 10 years ago
The D9 output on the RAMPS board is a constant positive 12v output, with the ground coming through the MOSFET. The ground is actually a PWM (pulsed) output that will vary in its potential to ground. By connecting the ground directly to your power supply ground, you bypassed the control from the RAMPS board. I run my extruder cooling fan the whole time my power supply is on, and use the D9 outputby MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Thing's I've learned about owning a 3D printer - 10 years ago
Good advice!by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay - 10 years ago
Disconnect the heated bed from the RAMPS and test the wires going to the bed for resistance. This will ensure that you are not wasting your time trying to get a bad bed working. Post your findings and we'll go from there.by MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heated bed question - 10 years ago
The heated bed shouldn't be heated to 120C... That's hot enough to boil water! I get excellent adhesion with PLA on clean glass at 55C. There's a menu item in Pronterface that will scroll G-code in the info area... Just need to select debug.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Auto bed leveling for Folger tech Prusa i3? - 10 years ago
Okay... here goes - Covered the front threaded rods with chrome-plated tubing to match the smooth rods (Harley-fied my printer!) - Covered the rear threaded rods with split-loom tubing to prevent electrical shorts (since I moved the RAMPS beneath the bed) - Replaced all of the limit switches with roller switches (reduced the amount of wiring) - Replaced the plastic portions of the extruder wiby MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Thing's I've learned about owning a 3D printer - 10 years ago
Fen2006: Muy cierto. Está muy caliente!by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Thing's I've learned about owning a 3D printer - 10 years ago
AquaticsLive: I totally agree! It is easy for a hobby to become an obsession.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Printrun/Pronterface? - 10 years ago
Thanks SamS. The problem with the estimated print duration is that my prints always take around 150% the estimated time. For example a for that says it will print in 2 hrs takes 3 hrs. No real problem, but bad data is not worth looking at. (Not a feature!) It would just be convenient to know how many layers remain without having to calculate it myself. It would be easy in python, but I'm usingby MindRealm - General
Re: Auto bed leveling for Folger tech Prusa i3? - 10 years ago
I have a FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) with several upgrades/tweaks, including auto bed leveling. If you're still seeking info, please let me know... -Davidby MindRealm - Prusa i3 and variants
Printrun/Pronterface? - 10 years ago
Shouldn't there be a Printrun/Pronterface forum in the Software Folder here? I have a couple specific questions, but can't find a really suitable spot for them... Anyway, here goes: 1 - Is there any way to tweak the estimated print duration in Pronterface for windows? 2 - Is there any way to add current/total layer number status (like Repetier Host) in Pronterface? 3 - How exactly does one makby MindRealm - General
Thing's I've learned about owning a 3D printer - 10 years ago
Hello everyone, and Merry Christmas! Just thought I'd take a few minutes and share some wisdom for those that are thinking of building/buying a 3D printer. I have owned a FolgerTech Prusa i3 for about a month, having purchased it on eBay for around $325. It has been a good printer, considering the price, and has taught me some valuable lessons. If you are married, consider having your signifby MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Change top and bottom layers? - 10 years ago
Not really what I want. I don't want to be able to see through the part, but have the pattern applied to the solid layers. Thanks, though...by MindRealm - Printing
Change top and bottom layers? - 10 years ago
Hey guys, Does anyone here know if you can force slic3r to use the honeycomb infill pattern as the first/last layers (i.e. the top and bottom surfaces)? Thanksby MindRealm - Printing