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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: Folger Tech Prusia i3 Build - Z Axis End Stop Not Functioning - 10 years ago
Please let me know how your end stops are installed: X on left or right of axis? Y on front of back of axis? Z on top of bottom of axis? (A couple photos would be most helpful, including one of the connection to the RAMPS board.) Also, please post your Configuration.h file from Marlin.by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: folger prusa i3 not working right - 10 years ago
Sorry - We're using different versions of Marlin. Please attach your Configuration.h file and I'll update it with these settings.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: z endstop issues - 10 years ago
You can run M114 in G-Code to check where the printer thinks the nozzle is located. This will help diagnose what's going on...by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Z feed rate for auto level - 10 years ago
What firmware are you using? Marlin, Repetier, Sprinter, etc...by MindRealm - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: print block keeps cooling during print - 10 years ago
Not sure what you have done yet, or what type of hot end you're using, but I highly recommend insulating the heater block so that it will not be exposed to the ambient air temperature or the air from any fans.by MindRealm - Printing
Re: Auto bed levelling? am im doing it the wrong way? - 10 years ago
I would also like to raise the Z-axis before retracting the probe. The normal sequence is: 1. Raise Z-axis 2. Extend the probe 3. Lower the Z-axis until the switch is activated 4. Raise the Z-axis 5. Lower the Z-axis until the switch is activated again 6. Retract the probe 7. Raise the Z-axis 8. Move to the next probe location, then repeat the sequence (...) You're looking to swap 6 and 7... Iby MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: Where should I start? - 10 years ago
I bought mine on eBay for around $100 less, from the US. Currently $319 >> Search for Folger i3by MindRealm - General
Re: i3 Improvements/repairs Thoughts? - 10 years ago
Hello. The problem with the X-axis rod falling out is probably due to the wrong length rods being installed. The i3 kits typically include three pairs of smooth rods; two for each axis. Typical lengths: Short (320mm) is for the Z-axis Medium (350mm) is for the Y-axis Long (370mm) is for the X-axis I suspect if you measured the Y or Z axis, you'll find the long ones installed there...by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: [ERROR] Could not connect to COM4 at baudrate 115200: Serial error: could not open port COM4: [Error 5] Acceso denegado. - 10 years ago
I have only had Marlin loaded as firmware on my RAMPS1.4, using it for troubleshooting, tuning and printing.by MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Auto bed levelling? am im doing it the wrong way? - 10 years ago
You could try changing the angles a degree or two in the following line: #define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 165,65} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles ...and definitely change the following line: // #define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300 to #define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 printer stops heating after 100-110c - 10 years ago
...or the polyfuses on the RAMPS board may be opening.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Newb Needs help with endstops - 10 years ago
Most printers (mine seems to be the exception) have the X-axis ends mounted so that the nut is inserted below the end pieces, with the weight of the axis keeping them in the cutouts. I flipped mine on purpose (for aesthetic reasons) and used a dab of epoxy to hold them in.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 printer stops heating after 100-110c - 10 years ago
What type of electronics are you using? (RAMPS, etc..)by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3, with autobed leveling, printing too close to the bed. - 10 years ago
Losing 6mm over a 100mm print is pretty significant. You will need to decrease the steps/mm on your z axis. You can use STL to test it.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: N1 T0*59 - 10 years ago
Take a look at the G-Code in a text editor. You have a bad command being passed to the printer. On line 1 in your G-Code, T0 is being sent as an unknown command or variable. (the *59 is a checksum value)by MindRealm - Printrun/Pronterface
Re: [ERROR] Could not connect to COM4 at baudrate 115200: Serial error: could not open port COM4: [Error 5] Acceso denegado. - 10 years ago
I access my Arduino/Marlin electronics in Pronterface using 250000 baud in the dropdown...by MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
Re: RepRap iTopie - A Prusa i3 evolution - Development discussion - 10 years ago
Very nice. It looks very sturdy, but also super heavy. This will be an issue if you ever offer kits online.by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: Auto bed levelling? am im doing it the wrong way? - 10 years ago
Quotei see on your blog that you connect 2 pin on the Gnd and 5v and 1 pin next to jumper wire it seem different from my setup That's where I am picking up power (the two pins in the servo section) and control (PS-ON) for a relay to control my power supply using G-Code! The instructions are in my Thingiverse and Instructables profiles.by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: Ebay Reprap pruse i3 - 10 years ago
Please don't take this wrong, as it is not meant as an insult, as this is for anyone who is considering getting into 3D printing at home: Buying a kit is intended for someone who is ready to dig in and solve problems. If they are not willing (or able) to become somewhat intimate with the printer's parts, operation, tuning and firmware, they should look at prefab, ready to print units like thoseby MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Newb Needs help with endstops - 10 years ago
Having all six gives you the ability to use actual end stops on both ends of each axis. I'm not sure why anyone would do that, with software end stops being available in Marlin, unless you were to have a printer with an expandable frame (neat idea!), in which case it would eliminate needing to redefine the travel limits in the firmware...by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Auto bed levelling? am im doing it the wrong way? - 10 years ago
Sounds fine...as long as the servo wiring is Brown=GND, Red=5v, Orange=signal. The Chinese-sourced parts have been known to have things wired backwards or shorted, etc. You can identify the correct wiring connections inside the servo very easily, since the housing is clear. The servo info in your link shows that it should only draw 300mA max, and the Arduino Mega2560 can handle around 1500mA beby MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: Auto bed levelling? am im doing it the wrong way? - 10 years ago
I'm using the same boards and a servo for auto-leveling. You can take a look at photos of my wiring by clicking the link in my signature... Please post a photo of the connection of the servo on the RAMPS board, or describe how/where it is connected.by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: Newb Needs help with endstops - 10 years ago
Don't worry - you have a great printer, regardless of the seller. I highly suggest printing a replacement extruder as soon as you get it dialed-in. It will save you a bunch of grief. Take a look at the links in my signature for parts specifically for this printer!by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Auto bed levelling? am im doing it the wrong way? - 10 years ago
Looks like your servo is killing the 5 volt VCC bus. What kind of board are you using?by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Re: Newb Needs help with endstops - 10 years ago
Change this line: //#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS to this #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPSby MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Folger Tech Prusa i3 extruder motor not responding - 10 years ago
If still nothing, try a different driver module. Using one of the known-working ones (Y-axis, etc.) will also narrow down the problem...by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3, with autobed leveling, printing too close to the bed. - 10 years ago
You can increase the sped of Y-axis by increasing the second set of numbers in the following lines: #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {250, 250, 2, 22} When homing Z, the nozzle should remain at the center of the bed, where the probe was retracted, at 100,100,7 in your case. Now... G28 X Y G28 Z G29 See if it works...by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3, with autobed leveling, printing too close to the bed. - 10 years ago
The problem with the Y-axis travel is the steps/mm in the Configuration.h file.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Re: folger prusa i3 not working right - 10 years ago
You'll need to move the Y end stop plug up to the next set of pins. Rename the existing Configuration.h file (in the Marlin directory) to something like OldConfiguration.h and save the attached file in the same directory to replace the old one. The command is G-Code. It can be run in the command prompt of Pronterface or Repetier Host.by MindRealm - Reprappers