A couple more things: Please run M303 E-1 C8 S90 and let me know the values it provides: Kp = Ki = Kd = Also, make sure your Y end stop is plugged into the 4th set of pins (Y-max) - It looks like you have it plugged into the 3rd set (Y-min)by MindRealm - Reprappers
Try this oneby MindRealm - Reprappers
I'll take a look... Please post your Configuration.h file from Marlin.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Hi! I have the same printer and I'm very happy with it (see the photos and stuff in my signature!). Please let me know how yours is set up and I'll fix your Marlin! Where is your X-axis limit switch? (left or right) Where is your Y-axis limit switch? (front or back) Where is your Z-axis limit switch? (top or bottom) -Davidby MindRealm - Reprappers
This can be fixed by straightening your filament between the spool and the extruder with one of these: I have had success using a modified extruder base with a little wedge that goes between the tube and the gears, like this:by MindRealm - Reprappers
Temporarily connect your extruder stepper to a different (known working) stepper output, such as the Y-axis to see if the extruder stepper is okay. Also, you are using the E0 stepper driver and connection, not E1, right?by MindRealm - Reprappers
Looks like we'll need to teach it the shape of your bed and where the edges are... I'll take another look at the Configuration.h. You can check the bed settings in Pronterface. Also, please confirm that your printer is set up as follows: 1. The X-axis end stop is on the left of the bed, placing the nozzle at the left edge of your print surface when triggered 2. The Y-axis end stop is behind tby MindRealm - Reprappers
Neat idea! I would like to apply a couple layers of the honeycomb fill above the 'final' layers to add texture to some prints, but I haven't figured out how.by MindRealm - Experimental
Oh... here's the extruder PID section from Marlin's Configuration.h file: //=========================================================================== //============================= PID Settings ================================ //=========================================================================== // PID Tuning Guide here: // Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-by MindRealm - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Try the print again. If the problem repeats, it was due to an error in the G-Code file, not the printer.by MindRealm - Printing
That's almost identical to mine, except it was around $100 less expensive and I am very please with it If you get a plexiglass frame, do not force the fit of any of the nuts... you will crack the plexiglass!by MindRealm - Reprappers
Odd. Let's go back a step further... Run the following commands and let me know the results G28 X Does the X-Axis go to zero and double-tap? G28 Y Does the X-Axis go to zero and double-tap? G28 Z Does the Z-Axis go to zero and double-tap? M114 Where does the printer think the nozzle is located in X, Y, Z coordinates? Should be X=0, Y=0, Z=0 G1 Z10 Does the nozzlby MindRealm - Reprappers
The high voltage input wire colors are a little odd. Can you provide a photo of the other end of the wire and let us know your country and voltage. Also, posting a photo of the ramps connection, as suggested by waitaki, would be very helpful.by MindRealm - General
You can autotune the PID Just run M303 E0 S200 C8 at a G-Code prompt. Here's what it means: M303 = start PID auto tune E0 = first extruder S200 = heat to 200C C8 = cycle the heat on/off 8 times The debug window will provide your PID parameters!by MindRealm - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The LEDs and connection to your Mac is great news! It is possible (likely) that the port assignment for the connected USB has changed, and needs to be updated in the Arduino IDE and Pronterface.. I'm not very familiar with iOS, so I'm afraid I can't guide you how to check the port address.by MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
I'm surprised that nobody here has offered to print you some... If you have an exact model in mind (many on Thingiverse) let me know and we may be able to work something outby MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
Hmmm... Maybe, just maybe, the changes didn't overwrite your Configuration.h file, but renamed is something like Configuration(1).h Open Marlin in the Arduino IDE and search for MindRealm in the Configuration.h tab - just for curiosity's sake.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Are you sure you sent Marlin (including the new Configuration.h) to the Arduino? I made some pretty significant changes...by MindRealm - Reprappers
Okay - Give this a shot using the same instructions. I commented all the changes like this: // << Changed 4/5/15 by DGardner (MindRealm) Old value below.by MindRealm - Reprappers
Please post your Configuration.h file and I'll take a look. Also, please confirm the size of your bed. Thx!by MindRealm - Reprappers
Is the Arduino recognized by your computer when you plug in the USB cable? If not, then try another USB device (thumb drive, cell phone, etc.) to see if they are recognized. If they are recognized, but not the Arduino, then the Arduino is bad. If other devices are also not recognized, then I suspect the port on the computer may be damaged. If the Arduino is recognized by the computer when pluggiby MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
I would suggest attaching the insulating material (I use 1/4 cork) directly to the bottom of the heat bed itself, then attaching the insulated head bed to the sled using the corner hardware as before. This will still allow for rough manual leveling without having the insulating material interfere with the mounting. I thought it was a good idea to replace the corner springs on my heated be withby MindRealm - Reprappers
Let's start from scratch... 1 - Run the attached G-Code 2 - Place a piece of plain paper (I use a Post-It note) on the bed below the nozzle 3 - When it is done, lower your nozzle in 0.1mm steps until it just touches the paper (I use the Z-0.1 button in PronterFace) 4 - Enter M114 and make note of the Z value. This is how much you will need to subtract from your present value in Marlin 5 - Afterby MindRealm - Reprappers
See this thread at arduino.cc >>CLICK I have attached the referenced file...by MindRealm - RAMPS Electronics
Your settings are right there... Try changing the following lines: #define DOG_CHAR_WIDTH_LARGE 9 #define DOG_CHAR_HEIGHT_LARGE 18 to #define DOG_CHAR_WIDTH_LARGE 6 #define DOG_CHAR_HEIGHT_LARGE 12 Note the 2:1 height to width ratio. 8 and 16, 7 and 14, etc. should work as well.by MindRealm - Developers
Wooo! Found it You short the R4 resistor on A4988 stepper drivers... The fix is described >>HERE<< (but in GERMAN)by MindRealm - General
Check the settings in dogm_lcd_implementation.h... #define USE_BIG_EDIT_FONT // save 3120 bytes of PROGMEM by commenting out this line #define FONT_STATUSMENU u8g_font_6x9 #define FONT_MENU u8g_font_6x10_marlin // DOGM parameters (size in pixels) #define DOG_CHAR_WIDTH 6 #define DOG_CHAR_HEIGHT 12 #ifdef USE_BIG_EDIT_FONT #define FONT_MENU_EDIT u8g_font_9x18 #by MindRealm - Developers
I get this sometimes when I load an STL file before the slicing software (in my case Slic3r) is done saving the file. Thus, I only get the layers that are saved at the time...by MindRealm - General Mendel Topics
The closer the number is to zero, the closer it is to the height of your nozzle. To lower the nozzle (as a result of auto leveling), the number must be closer to zero: -5.0 is closer to zero than -5.1, and reduces the distance between the probe and the nozzle.by MindRealm - Reprappers