Quotew3drk Be careful, if I recall the vias under the drivers are "untented" meaning there isn't any solder mask insulating them. If those vias are part of the supply domain and your heat sinks make contact with them they could end up being live and potentially short to a grounded chassis, etc. Odds are they are ground vias, but I'd measure to be sure. Can you explain to me how to measure to beby dintid - Controllers
QuotePartTimeRonin Quotedintid Would it be safe to put some small heatsink on the back of the drivers? Kind of like the small ones on pololu drivers, or would it short out something? Edited to get the image in place I think you can, just use some thermal conductive pads so it wont short. I don't really have any such. I have some 3M 486MP tape and a bunch of the small heatsinks... I really don'tby dintid - Controllers
Quoteflyway97 Quotearthurwolf Quoterocketwiz Also what's with the heatsinks on the 8825's? Shouldn't they be on the (possibly too small) solder vias on the other side? Yes, putting the heatsinks on the top is definitely very bad design, from somebody with no experience in this, who has not even cared to read the datasheet for the drivers ( or understands how they work ). This is the same attitudby dintid - Controllers
Quotetomi01_2000 Quotedintid Quotetomi01_2000I am trying to connect printer on computer using cable usb, and the computer it start to install the driver - automatically. On Pronterface - i try to connect, and i have "connecting...". And even if i wait 10 min nothing's happened. Seems like you are using the wrong COM port. You should check in Device Manager if using Windows Source: •At a commanby dintid - Controllers
Quotetomi01_2000I am trying to connect printer on computer using cable usb, and the computer it start to install the driver - automatically. On Pronterface - i try to connect, and i have "connecting...". And even if i wait 10 min nothing's happened. Seems like you are using the wrong COM port. You should check in Device Manager if using Windows Source: •At a command prompt, in the Start Searchby dintid - Controllers
Quotezylantha Quotedintid While I understand how it is annoying, it is not really a problem due to the TFT but due to your usage scenario. It seems like you mostly use the display as,well, a display. If so, I'd have chosen a reprap discount or something similar. I don't see how my usage scenario is particularly unusual or different from anyone else's, who prints over USB (which I'm sure most peby dintid - Controllers
Quotezylantha Quotedintid You are correct on not listing XYZ coordinates, but there is overview of temperature, fan and time printed. You do need to start print from the display though. I do not print from the display - it's a display. I print from Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi 3 connected to the SBASE over USB. There is no status window on the display to be found. While I understand how it isby dintid - Controllers
I'm having a curisou and very very annoying problem with my setup. Before I bought this Sbase 1.2 Card I've been using Marlin on Arduino mega and Ramps for 4 months on this printer and everything has been very nice. It's an Ultimaker 2 clone After I've set everything up and start moving the axes it goes very nicely.. axes moves very smoothly back and forth. However, when I start printing bothby dintid - Controllers
Nice setup :-) I'm using 36-GT2 on XY axes and 20-GT2 pulleys on motors. Belts are 200-GT2. This gives me 144 step/mm which gives a resolution of 0,006944 mm/steps which is a lot Have used it like this for over a year and am very pleased with it. You can also buy Aluminium GT2 pulleys with 40 or 60 teeth instead of the 36 I use. Can also use a 16 teeth instead of the 20 I use on motors. Coby dintid - Tantillus
Quotechris33 proper pin layout picture Just inserting it here: This is the image from my instructable about Sbase and Smoothiewareby dintid - Controllers
Quotezylantha I've been migrating my Delta Kossel XL from RAMPS/Marlin to this board (+ TFT32) over the last few days, and have some observations / insights / issues to share that I did not see discussed before I went ahead with purchasing the board: The TFT32 is really not a comparable replacement for your standard RepRap discount LCD. There is no screen that displays a nice "current status" -by dintid - Controllers
Quotetomi01_2000 please, is anybody who have an pdf with explications for config.txt? to light me up exactly the values for all the settings Do you mean config.txt explanation? There is no pdf explanation as far as I know. You can read on Smoothieware.org or you might want to take a look at the instructable I made for Sbase/Smoothieware Please vote if you like itby dintid - Controllers
Quotersuastegui Hi, I'm having the same problem, did you sorted it out. Please let me know. Check polarity of your motors and plugs. I'll allmost wager you need to flip one or both Parisby dintid - Controllers
Quotetomi01_2000 i have a dead 3d printer buy it from here the initial motherboard was with problems - problems on axe x, i changed the mb with a second, same model, from China (new problems - imposible to build a cube of 1 cm - always is making 0.5mm on axe Z) ... imposible to find a firmware/ CMOS able to modify the errors Now, i try to change my printer on a smothie system - motherboard.by dintid - Controllers
QuoteDark Alchemist Quotethe_digital_dentist The size doesn't matter as along as it is big enough. You just drill into the metal until the diameter is large enough for your screw head. You can do it with a hand drill.Alright, good to know as my screws are all countersunk 3mm so I need a 90 degree countersink which leaves me having to find a metric. Too bad they don't make this to fit my Dremelby dintid - Developers
Seriously, right now I have a 4mm alubed (nothing fancy) and I have drilled the holes and countersunk them myself with normal electrical handdrill.. I then have 4mm boroplat on top with PrintBite on one side and PEI on the other... I do not belive it would matter if I used MIC6 or not. I have a 500w AC heater under it. Do you Guys print directly on the Alubed, or? Edit: forgot to ask the questiby dintid - Developers
Quotebobc It's not the voltage, it's the current. Even a small servo can draw up to 1 Amp, the 5V regulator is only rated for 1Amp, and that also feeds the 3.3V. Even active endstops only use a few milliamps, so there is no problem powering from the onboard 5V. Thank you. I've never used servos (not going to either) and just thought the endstops were designed for this particular kind of useby dintid - Controllers
Quoteo_lampe QuoteAlexus12 Hi everybody. Has anyone connected the servo to the MKS SBase V1.2? Please, give the diagram how to connect the servo to the board physically. I can't find the +5 pin on the board. Only ground. How to connect the servo with external power supply for the servo to this board? Always use a separate 5V supply for the servo. Make sure, the ground is connected to GND on theby dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 Wonders how to connect dc42 ir sensor? Guess just like any other endstop.by dintid - Controllers
Quotebobc Quotedintid I think I solved it everyone, I just need to figure out the firmware part You solved it? Well done When you write the instructable, make sure to put your name on it so you get the credit. BTW, it's engineers that are normal and sane. Non-engineers are the idiots. Yes, solved it, so now I can relay it. What do you mean "put my name on it"? Not like it's posted anonymousby dintid - Controllers
Quotearthurwolf Quotedintid I published my guide to Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware. I have been unable to find anywhere else at all resembling a guide or intro to Smoothieware, not even on Smoothiewares site - command listing is not a guide in terms of normal people usage ? Not entirely sure what you ask? But if you mean they have guides? They doby dintid - Controllers
Quotehodgeac Quotedintid Quotechris33 MakerBase Technology Co., Ltd. is the correct aliexpress store and above link to the module they sell i messaged the seller and he said yes you can use that module with the mks sbase v1.2 The question is really more a: How to wire it explained for normal people. How to setup firmware for normal people. Oh man, "for normal people." I like that LOL! Hopefully,by dintid - Controllers
I'm a bit unsure if I should post here or not, but let me know if I erred While setting up my new MKS Sbase 1.2 and getting to know Smoothieware I wrote an Instructables. Quotedintid on instructables This Instructables is about finding our way around and Configuring the MKS Sbase 1.2 32-bit controller Card basics and intro to Smoothieware. I guess it can be used for Smoothieboards as well toby dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 MakerBase Technology Co., Ltd. is the correct aliexpress store and above link to the module they sell i messaged the seller and he said yes you can use that module with the mks sbase v1.2 The question is really more a: How to wire it explained for normal people. How to setup firmware for normal people.by dintid - Controllers
Have you tried asking the person. You saw using it? Do I understand correctly that it is not on a ramps board but on an MKS base mini? If so, you might want to ask in controllers and not in Ramps forumby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
Quotebobc Chris has it, there is an external module which plugs in. Schematic is here Page 14 shows connector J7, labelled THC. There are 3 signal pins, they go straight to the CPU. There is no amplifier anywhere on the schematic. The pins on the external module are labelled the same as J7. Now, you can believe the Chinese guy, but the evidence is enough for me... you will need to buy the modby dintid - Controllers
Quotebobc Chris has it, there is an external module which plugs in. Schematic is here Page 14 shows connector J7, labelled THC. There are 3 signal pins, they go straight to the CPU. There is no amplifier anywhere on the schematic. The pins on the external module are labelled the same as J7. Now, you can believe the Chinese guy, but the evidence is enough for me... you will need to buy the modby dintid - Controllers
Quotebobc Quotedintid @arthurwolf Is the Smoothieboard 2going to have naitive support for Thermocouplers and/or PT100? Can the current Smoothieboard handle Thermocouplers without an external amplifier? Am a bit confused about this, as your documenation states we need an amplifier, but the chinese says I do not need one for their Sbase 1.2 board (and since they are copying yours I'm getting confby dintid - Controllers
Quotearthurwolf Quotedintid @arthurwolf Is the Smoothieboard 2going to have naitive support for Thermocouplers and/or PT100? Can the current Smoothieboard handle Thermocouplers without an external amplifier? Smoothieboard v1 does not have amplifiers on-board, and v2 will not either. However, v2 will have an extension board system that will make it very easy to add things like that, with a standby dintid - Controllers
Quoterobster34 Just to confirm what others have speculated...I had real problems adjusting the stepper current on my Tantillus printers. I use a variety of a4988 driver suppliers. Too little current and the motors wouldn't reliably follow the steps. Too much, and it would skip occasionally (particularly at high speed). What eventually worked for me was to get very thorough about adjusting theby dintid - Tantillus