@arthurwolf Is the Smoothieboard 2going to have naitive support for Thermocouplers and/or PT100? Can the current Smoothieboard handle Thermocouplers without an external amplifier? Am a bit confused about this, as your documenation states we need an amplifier, but the chinese says I do not need one for their Sbase 1.2 board (and since they are copying yours I'm getting confused) Note: My questiby dintid - Controllers
Quotearthurwolf Quotedintid I'm actually been waiting for Smoothieboard v2 for ages, but since there's no date or Price, It's a huge project ( we are not just taking somebody else's design and firmware and selling it, we actually have to do a lot of work, with the community ), and it is making progress. I hope to have some good news soon. As for price, we aim at trying to keep the v2 at about thby dintid - Controllers
Quotehodgeac Quotedintid Quotehodgeac Here is a picture of the latest version of the board. I ordered a couple of these to play with directly from Makerbase's Aliexpress store a couple weeks ago. I just got 2 the other week, and is working on setting up the first one. Am working on an Instructables step-by-step for this board and smoothieware basics for it as well. (and a single temperature swby dintid - Controllers
QuoteDust NC is no connection. ie nothing is connected to that pin. Thanks QuoteDust Normally a thermocouple requires a amplifier, some boards have a amplifier onboard, I cant speak for your board... yes, that is why I asked if the Manufacturer were right, when he said this board did not require one QuoteDust A thermocouple is literally two dissimilar wires.. connecting them to +5v and gndby dintid - Controllers
QuoteDark Alchemist ....1/4in in the dimensions shown will probably weigh about 3-5 pounds but would be very flat. Add the boro glass and the silicon heater and it will weigh in around 7-8 pounds I think. Oh, I have tried frames, beds, you name it and USPS and UPS always bends whatever it is. If it isn't bent in shipping it will be bent upon delivery (already had 2 broken mailboxes within a yeby dintid - Controllers
I recently recieved 2 MKS Sbase 1.2 boards and am pretty pleased. I would have liked to use my existing PT100 sensors, but seems a good way off before that can be realized. In the meantime I'd like to use a Thermocoupler for my hotend at least, so I can print high temperature stuff. Looking at the images from their Github there is Thermocoupler support on the upper right part of the Card - theby dintid - Controllers
Quotehodgeac Quotechris33 Quoteflyway97 Dear everybody, This is Shelly from Maker Base(MKS),who will deal with MKS products problems here for you . If there are any inappropriate, please feel free to comment.(Or contact me by E-mail. shelly@makerbase.com.cn) So many friends are easy to get confused onby dintid - Controllers
Quotehodgeac Here is a picture of the latest version of the board. I ordered a couple of these to play with directly from Makerbase's Aliexpress store a couple weeks ago. I just got 2 the other week, and is working on setting up the first one. Am working on an Instructables step-by-step for this board and smoothieware basics for it as well. (and a single temperature switch to turn on hotend faby dintid - Controllers
QuoteDark Alchemist Quotethe_digital_dentist I don't understand the question. Why would you sandwich it between two aluminum plates? You're only going to print on the top. Aside from increasing the mass, what would adding a plate to the underside do?Makes it flat so all of the heating side touches all of the top plate. Seriously, that is just so over "engineered". I DO get the issue of the thiby dintid - Controllers
Zukduk, you really have to go through the file step-by-step to set it up for YOUR printer. The config file you used is just a template. Attached some images to show my Progress for setting up my Sbase 1.2 - am making an Instructables with explanations as well for smoothieware and sbase newbiesby dintid - Controllers
QuoteAndersl OK, I'll try that. The temperatures flattened out at roughly 70 degrees C on top of the chips during a lengthy print of two tantillus XY ends. Just blowing a fan on them reduced the temp to 45 degrees C. Does anybody know roughly at what temps the chips shut down. Obviously the temp on top of the chip is not the same as the one inside the chip but there is probably some correlation.by dintid - Tantillus
Quotestratmaster458 I've been wanting to build a tantillus with my girlfriend for a while. I want to build goopyplastic's variant with belts. Does anyone know what kind of belts the folks that are running belt driven tantillus' are running? I haven't been able to find out what tooth count GT2/MXL belts people are using and whether the pulleys are MXL or GT2. Have you seen my Ultius build? All filby dintid - Tantillus
QuoteAndersl I'm getting exactly the same issue on my newly built tantillus. Has someone else experienced this recently and if so what was the solution? I'm measuring the temps right now to find out if I'm hitting the thermal limits of the drivers. I'm using drv8825's Always put fans on. Especially on drv8825. Heatsinks are mandatory as Well.by dintid - Tantillus
Quotetuxhead Has anyone able to get the RRD full graphic display with this board. I tried enabling these options in the config file: It would be greatly helpful if someone can post a functioning config for this LCD Do you use v1.0 or v1.2? Do you use a thermocople? Asking as they mention something regarding these configurations on their sales page:by dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 Theres a kit with a board converts the fsrs,to be used with a normal endstop and sensitive settings yes i agree a true bed level shouldnt need it but im gadget show man i like it when it does calibration it stratifys my ocd to watch it probe the bed and im rubbish at leveling anything and my abl on my i3 done it job for my lazyness lol Can only agree on that. My main gripe about autby dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 i don't know about pt100 i got figure out about what abl system i can us whether fsr, proximity sensor or just the standard probe with miroswitch hopefully the fsr kit may work I've actually used the Mini IR-sensors a while. Works fine. Learned to level my bed properly by now though, so no longer use any sensors etc, but instead use a 4mm alu-plate with 4mm glass on op => it doesby dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 Just powered it up Looks like mine, with new firmware. Checked your heatsinks? Mine was very Loose, and had to reattach it using some 3M tape (suitable for this). Still no one with ideas as to how we can use PT100 sensors or are we just forced to use thermistors or 1 thermocopler, which we can hook up to it? Edit: Don't put your devices on top of the antistatic bags... that suitsby dintid - Controllers
I have tried searching, and have read most of this thread, so please excuse me if it has allready been answered Any way to use PT100 sensors on these boards? I went ahead and got myself 2 pcs of MKS Sbase 1.2 before I had fully investigated the use of PT100 sensors. I'm currently using PT100 sensors and PT100 Aplifier boards from E3D, which I have been using on my Ramps boards with great succby dintid - Controllers
Quotefredchan TinyOLED V1.0 for RAMPS TinyOLED V1.2 for RAMPS TinyOLEd V1.2 on TinyBoy 3D Printer Extended TinyOLEd V1.2 on TinyBoy 3D Printer Extended using DC12V you can make a case box easily with www.Tinkercad.com Thank you for you links fredchan I know how to make items, but it is far less timeconsuming if it is allready made. Seems V1 is not a fit at all. Wodner if the 1.2 fit for hby dintid - Controllers
Quoteenif I have now made a slightly larger version of the PCB which leaves even with the 1.3" display some gap towards the rotary encoder, which is needed for building a nice frame around the tinyOLED controller: And also I have now created frames for both sizes of the tinyOLED, based on the above PCB version, which I have put on thingiverse: I just printed this and there is no way the PCB cby dintid - Controllers
QuoteMartin_H Those are neat mods. What's the advantage of the lead screw modification? Depends a bit on compared to what? I have never used the original, as I'm not a fan of thread and knots in my printer. Apart from the thread and knots thing the advantage is increased Z-height. A lot. On the attached Photo you can see distance from bed (without glass) up to my hotend, which is E3D volcance, sby dintid - Tantillus
Around 9x9cm much higher z though. Don't think you will ever find more than 10x10 which is rhe original size.by dintid - Tantillus
Hello all. I've had a Tantillus for a long time, and spend much of the time rebuilding it. I've just finished Building my latest modification, which might very well be the last: Tantillus Compact Ultimaker Slider Adapters In short they allows the use of GT2 belts in a good and sturdy way and also allows the use of Ultimaker carriages, so we have much more options here. It does require you to gby dintid - Tantillus
Quotecozmicray I have a Ordbot Hardon with a Mega Ramps controller. Perhaps to start over Find a known good Arduino Mega (test it with example sketches) Mount your best RAMPS on it with good stepper drivers, jumpers in the right place Test your power supply measure under a load. Check all connectors and connections, anything suspect measure for continuity may be a good time for all cables toby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDavid J I hate to be blunt - but isn't it time to consider buying a decent board? Something in 32-bit, made & supplied by a reputable company? RAMPS/Arduino can be OK (one of my printers still uses it) but many of the Chinese-made boards are of barely-adequate quality and fail with monotonous regularity. I have a RAMPS shield somewhere that has never worked, even after I'd cleaned allby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteMaxWin thanks for that information with the display - seems like a nice replacement if i can not get the original to work. I mean it must work - but with a lot of effort. and since i mostly use octorpint it is not that important. I have some sort of Vibration-Feet under my printer, so height is not the problem at all. Maybe i will just go for it, and see how it will come out If you allreaby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotemakerparts Quotedintid Quotemakerparts 1 Motor driving 4 screws, seems ok. but finding a long Gt2 Loop that is over 2000mm is a challenge RobotDigg deliver belts up to 50m length Yes but they have a min qty of like 100 belts I believe. I often buy single parts as private person. You think about Alibababy dintid - Mechanics
Quotemakerparts 1 Motor driving 4 screws, seems ok. but finding a long Gt2 Loop that is over 2000mm is a challenge RobotDigg deliver belts up to 50m lengthby dintid - Mechanics
QuoteMaxWin Quotedintid Edit: why on Earth use ramps instead of Ulticontroller but keep the little display? No gain here. At all. And an expensivr move to boot. Gains: Possible use of automatic Fan controll, and - for me the most important - use of SilentStepStick Stepper Drivers - they are incredible! I use silent-stepsticks, and yes, they are awesome... on many controller you can use your ownby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm not very electronically minded, so what was the problem in human speak? A short? Where? How did it happen? Asking as my controllerfan stays on after the default 60 seconds at which time it used to turn off.by dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support